pet

برچسب: Dogs

  • Can dogs eat chick fil nuggets?

    Can dogs eat chick fil nuggets?


    If you’re a dog owner and you’ve ever been tempted to feed your four-legged BFF their very own Chick-fil-A nugget, you should think about it. Can dogs eat chick fil nuggets? Well, dogs are not biologically designed to eat fresh chicken or bones. The dog’s digestive tract isn’t equipped to handle the food like humans. 

    The main reason that dogs can eat raw meat is that they have a shorter, more limited stomach and they can quickly break down the meat into smaller and more manageable pieces. 

    With this in mind, you should treat your furry companions with caution when feeding them anything from a chicken nugget off your plate to table scraps or leftovers from dinner. Let’s know what type of chick-fil-A food your dog can eat!

    Can Dogs Eat Chick Fil A Nuggets?

    Can Dogs Eat Chick Fil A Nuggets

    No, Chick-Fil-A’s nuggets are not safe for your dog to eat as they contain chicken that has been processed in a way that may cause problems, such as liver damage. The ingredients are water, chicken breast, flour, salt, crude palm oil, wheat flour, and natural flavorings. Besides, Chick-fil-A nuggets are deeply fried, which makes them high in calories and fat. So it is not the best for your pup.

    In fact, there are plenty of other fast food options for your dog that will be more delicious and more nutritious. We recommend turkey sandwiches from Subway or salads from Wendy’s for a low-fat alternative.

    Lots of dogs love to snack on the nuggets that come in chicken flavor. The best way to determine if your dog can eat Chick-Fil-A Nuggets is to check the ingredients. Chick-Fil-A uses chicken, water, and salt as ingredients. 

    The only potential problem with the nuggets is if they have been salted heavily, but this is not likely because the nuggets are served cold and you are advised not to eat them at room temperature.

    What are Chicken nuggets made of?

    Chick-fil-A Chicken nuggets come from quality white meat chicken breasts that are rinsed and cooked in one of five levels of heat. Quality chicken is cooked at a high temperature so that the juices and flavor come out without overcooking the meat. The nuggets are vacuum-sealed and then frozen to keep them fresh.

    They are also made using a special coating, which is designed to ensure that they remain juicy. This coating creates a barrier around the meat that keeps out air, which prevents freezer burn, off-flavor, and freezer burn on the outside of the chicken.

    Are Chicken nuggets bad for your dogs?

    Chick-fil-A nuggets are nutritious for us. But, to help reduce the risk of foodborne illness in your dog, you should always select chicken products that contain no added ingredients, have no artificial colors or flavors, and conform to a minimum quality level (MQL).

    When cooked to the right temperature and at the right time, chicken is a safe treat for dogs. You should never feed your dog anything else if you want him or her to remain healthy. If you think your dog might have eaten something bad, take him or her to see a veterinarian right away.

    You may also read: Can Dogs Eat McDonald’s Chicken Nuggets

    Do Chicken nuggets provide nutritional benefits for your dog?

    Chicken nuggets are a tasty way to give your dog a nutritious meal or treat if prepared correctly. A 3.5-ounce serving of chicken nuggets contains:

    • Chicken is a great source of selenium, phosphorus, vitamin B6, and protein.
    • Potassium helps to maintain fluid and electrolyte balance in your dog’s body so he can avoid dehydration.
    • Phosphorus helps with the formation of bones and teeth by combining with calcium in the body, which supports strong bones and teeth. The protein in your dog’s diet will also help to keep his muscles strong.
    • The fats that are present in chicken nuggets are good for your dog’s skin, coat, and nails.

    Can dogs eat chick fil sauce?

    There are two primary sauces at Chick-Fil-A and neither one of them should be given to your dog in large quantities. The Polynesian sauce contains soy and sugar, which are both harmful if eaten in excess, so you need to watch how much of it you give your dog. The BBQ sauce contains vinegar as its primary ingredient, so try not to use this very often.

    Can dogs eat a Chick-fil-A sandwich?

    Chicken and waffles are one of the most popular items on the menu. 

    If you’re wondering if your dog can enjoy this meal, the answer is yes! Just make sure to remove the fries before giving them to your pet. 

    Be careful not to give your dog too much because that would be bad for its health. These sandwiches tend to dry out dogs’ stomachs so be cautious when feeding them to them. But if your dog likes to eat chicken sandwiches, you can give it this meal. Just remember that a healthy portion will do the trick.

    Can my dog eat Chick-fil-A Cool Wrap?

    A few people have asked whether they can feed their dog a Chick-fil-A Cool Wrap. As I’m not the vet, according to my research I can say, that your dog can eat chick-fil-A cool wrap. 

    It seems that there really isn’t a consensus on what you should or shouldn’t let your dog eat.  And Chick-fil-A Cool Wrap contains some very questionable ingredients, such as cheese and mayonnaise. 

    It also has some good ingredients like chicken and vegetables. So my advice would be to skip any unnecessary calorie intake from the cool wrap in order to avoid any tummy problems for you or your dog in the future.

    You may also read: Can Cats Eat Corned Beef

    Conclusion

    Dogs can eat lots of things, but that doesn’t mean they should! If you are confused about whether can dogs eat chick fil nuggets or not, read the entire post carefully. Because Chick-fil-A nuggets aren’t complete meals and should not be the only food you feed your dog. It’s best to ask a veterinarian if you have any questions about feeding your dog something new.

    Chick-fil-A nuggets are not made for dogs, so it’s best not to let them eat them as treats or snacks usually. If you have any questions about if your dog can eat Chick-Fil-A Nuggets, just ask your vet before giving him or her any of the chicken nuggets from Chick-Fil-A.



    Source link

  • Exercising Senior Dogs


    As dogs get older, they don’t need as much physical activity. Unlike puppies or younger dogs, they don’t have a ton of energy they need to burn off every day.

    Senior dogs are usually content to sleep a lot and …

    The post Exercising Senior Dogs first appeared on People Loving Animals.



    Source link

  • Dog Barking Problem: Common Reasons For Your Dog’s Constant Barking


    Dogs can bark for appropriate and good reasons, such as when strangers approach our house, they hear an odd noise, or they are herding sheep. Most of us want our dogs to be “watch dogs” and alert us to anything unusual.

     

    Humanity in its ways blended with the canine family more than anything in the animal kingdom. History of the two could be traced as early as men first walked the earth. They have been each other’s constant companion. Throughout the years, men and dogs could almost be associated with everything and recently this relationship has come over to an entirely new level.

     

    Dogs are treated as more than just pets. They are treated just like family members. When we welcome them into our family, we have to see to it that we welcome them and make their 1st few days not as shocking as possible.

     

    Bear in mind that these are our pets. They have needs but they cannot tell us what it is as they could not speak our language. The most they could do is to bark or whimper to let us know what they feel at the moment.

     

     

    Understanding Barking

    Do not mistake howling and barking as signs of discontentment on their part. Perhaps there are other factors at play like the environment and other dogs. By carefully listening to every action and whimper and bark they have, it would enable us to know and understand their present situation.

     

    Over the years, dogs barking at our neighborhood are a constant bother to us. Thus, the need for us, pet owners to take measures, to ensure that our dog will not be as bothersome, as most other dogs are. Sometimes nuisance dogs are the cause of trouble among neighbors and some even reach the courts to settle the issue. Now that is something we don’t want happening to us. The more we try to spend time and understanding with them, the more we will be able to get their trust and obedience.

     

    To fully understand them, try to know as much as you can about the present situation. Expand your knowledge so as to be able to know what to do or what could be the cause of your dog’s endless barking. Remember, things happen for a reason and some things could not be answered just by guessing.

     

    The more you learn about dogs, the better your relationship will be. As the higher species, it is our best interest that we show them that we understand them despite the language barrier.

     

    If you wish to know more about god training, we have the perfect entry for you: Puppy 101: A beautiful journey through dog training.

     

     

    Barking Is The Way Your Dog Communicates

    Oftentimes, we all ask why dogs bark? We all know that dogs descend from the wolves and that being their descendants; we also know why dogs howl. But why do they bark? One answer would be “because they can”. It’s pretty much like asking why people talk! Dogs however bark more often than wolves do. Wolves are more known for their howling, the kind that gives us the creep whenever we hear one.

     

    Dogs bark to communicate just like us. They have these different pitches and sounds that convey different thoughts and emotions to another dog. We should not be surprised if our dogs bark but we should worry if they don’t. Barking is one way of letting us know as well of how they feel and how they think. It’s pretty much like wagging their tail when we arrive to show that they are happy.

     

    The bark has evolved into a complicated means of communication between dogs and, potentially, between dogs and people.

     

    There are also long lists of reasons why they bark. We pet owners have an indirect effect on their barking and the different nature of the barking. It has been suggested that the reason for the difference lies in the dog’s domestication by humans. An increased tendency to bark could have been useful to humans in providing an early warning system. Domestication has altered the physical appearance of dogs. Individual dogs bark for a variety of reasons. They may bark to attract attention, to communicate a message, or to express excitement.

    Some people tend to shout or hurt their dogs when they bark. This is a no no! The most we could do is to train them or discipline them in a firm but gentle manner. Make the experience as positive as you can. Do not overreact to our dogs when they bark as this is their nature. It is natural for them to bark at things they don’t know or they think is a threat. The more we try to silence them, the more they will bark.

     

     

    When A Dog Barks All The Time

    There comes a time when our dogs can’t seem to stop barking. Since barking is one of the many vocal communications for dogs, it’s understandable why they bark when they see other dogs and this also pleases us because it alerts us when people approach or when they want something or something bad is happening.

     

    But there are cases when their barking can be excessive. It’s very important to identify its cause and your dog’s motivation as barking serves a variety of functions before you start considering it as a barking problem. Every type of barking serves a distinct function for a dog, and when he is repeatedly rewarded for his barking, which means, if he gets what he wants-he learns to use barking to his benefit. For example, dogs who successfully bark for attention often go on to bark for other things, like food, play and walks. For this reason, it’s important to train your dog to be quiet on cue so that you can stop his attention-related barking and teach him to do another behavior instead-like sit or down-to get what he wants.

     

    Now barking that is a behavior problem may result from one of several different issues. The key is to first identify the cause of the barking and then to change your dog’s triggers. As a pet owner, you have to know or identify why your dog is barking just by its specific bark. For instance, a dog’s bark sounds different when he wants to play as compared to when he wants to come in from the yard.

     

    It’s crucial to determine why your dog is barking. It will take some time to teach your dog to bark less. Unfortunately, it’s just not realistic to quick fix or to expect that your dog will stop barking altogether. It’s extremely impossible that this would happen. It’s pretty much like a person. A person can’t stop talking suddenly! Not unless it’s traumatized or dead. Now we don’t want that. Our goal should be to decrease, rather than eliminate, the amount of barking. Bear in mind that some dogs are more prone to barking than others.

     

    Our tolerance to dog barking varies with each person. Some can tolerate extreme levels of barking while others cannot. Canine barking however can be a nuisance to neighbors, and is a common problem dog owners or their neighbors may face. Thus we have to consider our neighbors’ tolerance as well. Different kinds of barking often require different kinds of approach to reduction.

    Positive training is always the best way to train your dog, that’s why we made an article about it: Time for puppy preschool: Get the basics for positive dog training

     

     

    Dog Barking And Danger

    We cannot deny the fact that excessive barking can be troublesome for us. It can even be dangerous for us and for our pooch. Excessive barking must be kept at bay.

     

    Intruders can also hurt our pets. A dog may bark to threaten intruders. This is usually a more menacing bark and may be accompanied by growling. Depending upon the situation, you may need to move the dog to a more secure location or quietly reassure him. Otherwise, the intruder might silence your dog for good.  A dog will also bark to warn other dogs or people of danger. The barking generally continues until the source of danger is removed or the dog is taken to safety.

     

    There are times when we are sleeping so comfortably and soundly when our beloved dog suddenly releases that long, hair raising howl followed by an entire night of barking!

     

    Now this is troublesome for us but it’s worse for our neighbors. Some people tend to get violent when they’re disturbed especially at night when they are resting after a long day from work. At first they will air out their complaints to us and then when the barking continues, some take matters into their own hands.

     

    What about chronic barking? This can pose physical threat if not damage to the dog. Do you know that exercise often stops your dog’s chronic barking? Well, barking is sometimes a sign of boredom and frustration. Therefore, you may actually be harming your dog by not exercising him! That’s because a bored dog is far more likely to bark than an active dog. So it’s up to you to make the time necessary to keep your dog active and stimulated.

     

    If you want to stop your dog’s chronic barking then you should try increasing the amount of exercise that he or she gets every day. This will tire your dog out while also providing much needed stimulation. And both of these factors will work together to reduce or even stop your dogs chronic barking.

     

     

    Dealing With Barking Problem

    Dog barking has several explanations. Yes, it’s not threatening and can certainly be useful. But too loud, too often is annoying. Left as it is, barking leads to some problems. The most common problem would come from neighbors complaining. Nothing beats knowing what the problem is. We cannot find solutions to our problems if we don’t have enough knowledge on the matter.

     

    The key to controlling any problem is understanding, what could trigger the behavior and how to deal with it. This holds true to any problems and thus could be used to deal with the dog barking. Below are helpful ways to deal with your dog’s barking problem:

     

    • Have your dog eat at regular intervals. When they’re thirsty, dogs will respond to nature by barking for water. Dogs produce a different kind of howl, bark or growl when they want food. Feeding them at regular intervals would let them know when to expect they will get fed.

     

    • Be certain your dog gets enough daily exercise. Dogs have energy reserves; they must use it up daily. If not, they get jumpy. Whether it’s rain or shine on any given day, let your dog have enough exercise – no exceptions. When the sun is out, just be imaginative with indoor exercises.

     

    • Bring home a toy or a second dog to keep your little friend entertained. Dogs suffer separation anxiety if left by themselves for a long time. Keeping him amused or with company effectively de-stresses the dog and keeps him calm. If you’re entertaining a guest with their dog along, don’t let yours see this. Stay out of earshot when you’re into something interesting. Dogs like to take part in activities and would bark for it.

     

    • It’s important for your dog to know when barking is appropriate and when it isn’t. One of the first commands you should teach your dog to obey is, “Quiet.”. Dogs can be fiercely territorial. They bark at anything unusual. Being warned of strange things or people around your house is a good thing. However, you’d like your dog to just stay and watch delivery people, joggers and the usual passers-by quietly. Teach your dog to discern strangers and bark only at them. But the most important of all is to have your dog learn to cease barking on a single command.

    Please feel encouraged to say hello – we’ll be happy to help with any questions you might have, and if you’d like to comment on our site, products or service, we’d love to hear from you!



    Source link

  • Dog Barking Problem: Controlling Your Dog’s Constant Barking


    Dogs bark. It is part of their normal and natural communication and behavior. Dogs can bark for appropriate and good reasons. The more you learn about dogs, the better your relationship will be. If you wish to know more about the reasons why your dog barks, here you go: Dog Barking Problem: Common Reasons For Your Dog’s Constant Barking

     

    If we want to control barking, we need a dog that can obey us and relax. The dog needs to look to their owner for behavior clues. If we can call them, have them lie down (dogs don’t bark as much when lying down) and stay, we are well on the way to solving a nuisance barking problem. In addition, there are some common principles we can use in modifying barking behavior.

     

    First, in most cases shouting “No” is only going to make matters worse since the dog is thinking you are barking too (and is probably happy you joined in).

     

    Be consistent. Pick a one-word command e.g., “Enough” for the behavior you want and always use that word in the same tone of voice. Everyone in the household must use the same command and act identically.

     

    Be patient with your dog and yourself. Changing behavior takes a lot of time, and you need to take it slowly, one step at a time. If you become angry at your dog, the chance to correctly modify the behavior will be gone.

     

    Reward the dog for good behavior. Positive reinforcement is much more powerful than punishment. Physical punishment will do nothing but make your dog fearful of you and break down the bond you wish to have with them. Often, picking a very special treat like small pieces of cooked chicken or hot dog will make the reward seem even better. As time goes on, you will not give a treat every time, sometimes just rewarding with a “Good Dog” and a pat on the dog’s chest.

     

    Control the situation. As much as possible, set up situations to use as training. Practice in short, frequent sessions, generally 5-10 minutes each.

     

    Do not be afraid to ask an expert. Animal trainers, behaviorists, and your veterinarian can give you valuable advice. Having them witness your dog’s barking episodes may give them valuable clues on helping you solve the barking problem.

     

     

    Still Curious About Common Barking Reasons?

    The key to knowing what to do with our dog’s barKing is to know why they do so in the first place. Here are some of the common reasons why they bark:

     

    • Trained to Bark: certain dogs are trained to bark while doing their jobs. Most common are the guard dogs.

     

    • Territorial Protection: when one comes near their territory, the dogs bark to show that you are intruding.

     

    • Startle barking: occurs in response to an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement. As with an alert/warning bark, we need to be able to control this type of barking quickly.

     

    • Self-identification barking: is what you may be hearing when your dog seems to be answering other dogs he hears barking in the neighborhood. It is his way of saying, “I am over here.”

     

    • Play/excitement barks: often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets too excited with the game. Often a time-out is in order.

     

    • Play or Excitement.

     

    • Lonely/anxious barking: occurs if your dog is experiencing separation anxiety. The barking can become self-reinforcing as he becomes more stimulated and anxious. Anxious barks tend to get higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset. This type of barking can be especially annoying to your neighbors.

     

    • Lack of Exercise: your dog may need some time to stretch those muscles and give them time to play.

     

    • Improper Confinement: when their muscles due to small confinements in crates or cages, they bark or whimper.

     

    • Environmental Reasons: unfamiliar movements, people, or sounds cause dogs to bark as they may see it as a threat or fear it.

     

    • Boredom, Frustration, Loneliness: dogs feel lonely too and when they do, they bark and howl. Bored barkers simply need an outlet for their energy and a more stimulating environment.

     

    • Alert/warning barks: are the type of barks some owners encourage. They want their dog to alert them to the presence of a danger or suspicious stranger. Warning barks tend to become more rapid as the intruder approaches. Aggressive barks are low in pitch and may be combined with growls. We need to be able to distinguish warning barks from barks due to fear.

     

    • The Returning Family Member.

     

     

    Is There Any Other Reason?

    ? “I need to relieve myself please.”

     

    If this is the case, do not allow your dog’s barking to be its way of alerting you. You can try using a clicker to teach him a “Hush” command and then teach him an alternate alert signal such as pawing at the door. Every time he barks to go out, hush him, ask him if he has to “Go Potty” and then paw at the door with your hand. Repeat this process every time he barks to go out. Praise and treat every time he follows your lead.

     

    ? “I think someone is calling me.”

     

    Sometimes you’ll find dogs barking at each other. This doesn’t happen very often unless you have a dog next door that won’t shut up. You can try to distract him by playing with him or starting a game of fetch but this won’t solve the problem. Teaching him the “hush” command is the best way to eliminate this behavior.

     

    ? “I heard a loud noise and I don’t know what it is.”

     

    If you know that the noise does not pose a threat, stop the dog barking by playing with him or starting a game of fetch.

     

    ? “I’m thirsty.”

     

    Try teaching him the “Hush” command by using a clicker, and then when he has quieted down, fill his bowl with water. You can teach him to paw at his bowl by tapping on his bowl when he’s alerting you to fill his bowl. He will pick up on this after a while.

     

    ? “Don’t you dare come near my food while I’m eating?”

     

    Do not allow him to respond this way whenever someone walks by him while he’s eating. Next time it’s time to feed, place the bowl on your lap and feed him one morsel at a time. Do not allow him to reach the bowl. Show him that you are in control of his food. Do it until your pet gets accustomed to having someone touch his food. Have different members of the household try it as well. This will help desensitize him and show him he can trust you.

     

    If you have an overly-aggressive dog, then we would not recommend this.

     

    Your dog deserves the very best, that’s why you should learn how to feed them properly: Dog food for puppies: Why is it so important to get the best food for dogs.

     

     

    Control The Barking Behavior

    Once you determine the cause of your dog’s excessive barking, you can begin to control the behavior. Below are the things to do as agreed by most pet owners and handlers alike regarding barking and resolving it:

     

    • After getting your dog’s attention, practice basic commands, like sit and down in order to shift their focus.

     

    • Avoid leaving a lonely dog alone for long periods of time if possible.

     

    • Avoid punishments like shock collars. They are not only painful and unkind – many dogs will learn to test them and eventually work around them.

     

    • Consult your veterinarian and/or trainer if you continue to face barking issues despite your best efforts.

     

    • Do not encourage your dog to bark at sounds, such as pedestrians or dogs passing by your home, birds outside the window, children playing in the street and car doors slamming, by saying “Who’s there?” or getting up and looking out the windows.

     

    • DO NOT let your dog bark constantly outside, regardless of the reason. You can hardly train them to stop barking by yelling at them across the yard. Plus, it is one of the fastest ways to turn neighbors into enemies and send an invitation to your local police.

     

    • Do not punish your dog for barking at certain sounds, like car doors slamming and kids playing in the street, but then encourage him to bark at other sounds, like people at the door. You must be consistent!

     

    • Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise so there is not as much pent-up energy to burn by barking.

     

    • Never comfort, pet, hug or feed your dog when she is barking for attention or out of anxiety – that would be rewarding the behavior, thus encouraging it.

     

    • Never tie your dog’s muzzle closed with rope, cord, rubber bands or anything else. Doing this is dangerous, painful and inhumane.

     

    • Never use a muzzle or Husher to keep your dog quiet for long periods of time or when you’re not actively supervising him. Dogs can’t eat, drink or pant to cool themselves while wearing muzzles, so making your dog wear one for long periods of time would be inhumane.

     

    • Shouting at your dog to stop barking does not help. It may actually cause them to bark even more.

     

    • Train your dog to Speak and Be Quiet.

     

    • Try to get their attention with a clap or whistle. Once they are quiet, redirect their attention to something productive and rewarding – like a toy or treat.

     

    • Unless a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist advises you to do otherwise, never use punishment procedures if your dog is barking out of fear or anxiety. This could make them feel worse and, as a result, its barking might increase.

    Hey you, new dog owner. Now that you have a new puppy, this is the best time to train them the best way possible. So take a look at this: House and Crate Training 101: How To Crate Train Your Dog.

     

     

    Training A Dog yourself

    Now that we already are equipped with the knowledge about barking and their types, here are some easy steps in training our dog not to bark. They are simple and need not be professionals to be able to pull it off. All you need is patience:

     

    • Reward Silence – When your dog is barking, distracts it and wait for it to quiet down. Once it is quiet, provide a reward.

     

    • Don’t Let Him Greet Visitors – His excitement about visitors, delivery guys and other guests is largely due to their importance to him. If he routinely gets to greet people at the door then their visits matter. Deny him access to the doorway and ask your guests to ignore him when they arrive. Removing the importance visitors have for him can help reduce his eagerness to bark.

     

    • Provide More Exercise – A properly exercised dog is easier to train and also more relaxed. This helps solve barking issues. An exercised dog naps; an unexercised dog looks for something to do.

     

    • Deny Access to Barking Stations – If they have barking stations (by a window or door or the fence outside) deny them access. Managing the environment prevents them from seeing things that trigger their barking – such as dogs, animals or people.

     

    • Ignore Attention Seeking Barking – If they bark to get your attention and you respond, you’ve lost. If you are their focus when they are barking, ignore them. They will move on to another strategy soon enough.

     

    • Ignore Attention Seeking Barking – If he barks to get your attention and you respond, you’ve lost. If you are his focus when he’s barking, ignore him. He’ll move on to another strategy soon enough.

     

    • Provide Him with Something to Do – Dogs were originally bred for specific purposes. Without their jobs, they become bored, and a bored dog is more likely to bark. Provide him with interactive toys for entertainment.

     

    • Use Training Tools – Make things easy on yourself by using training products. These provide quick results without harming your dog. Use dog crates, as it makes it easy to manage their environment. Crates solve a lot of training problems, including barking, chewing, digging, and more.

     

    • Teach Him Speak and Be Quiet – Teach him to speak and hush on command. Once he grasps these you’ll be able to communicate with him when he begins barking too much. Then simply reward him for following your “Be Quiet” instruction.

     

    Please feel encouraged to say hello – we’ll be happy to help with any questions you might have, and if you’d like to comment on our site, products or service, we’d love to hear from you!



    Source link

  • Synthesized Reinforcement in Life with Dogs

    Synthesized Reinforcement in Life with Dogs


    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and one side of his face and brown ticking on his body is wearing a blue harness and attached leash. He is trotting on pavement toward the camera with his mouth open and his eyes soft, looking happy.

    This post is about the tricky concept of the combination of negative and positive reinforcement.

    I’ve always wondered about behaviors having more than one consequence. I’ve recently learned more about the possibility, and I’ve found a good example of it with Lewis.

    So-called “synthesized reinforcement” occurs when more than one reinforcer is a consequence of the same behavior. This occurrence has been recognized since at least as far back as 1969 (Osborne), but has only been named and systematically studied in the last 10 years. Synthesized reinforcement is noted in functional assessments and used in functional analyses.

    Synthesized Reinforcement and Escape to an Appetitive

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a black and blue harness and sitting in a yard, facing partially away from the camera.
    Lewis’ first harness

    Sometimes escape is just about getting away. From the scary monster, the hot stove—you need to move out of proximity now. But sometimes a function of escape is to get to something better. This topic is discussed plenty with humans. Reinforcement in combination like this is called synthesized reinforcement.

    Some scientists suggest that synthesized reinforcement is common, that looking for only one contingency in a functional assessment or functional analysis is artificial. Synthesized reinforcement can comprise aversive plus appetitive consequences, multiple aversives, or multiple appetitives. For example, multiple appetitives could be the cause of the extra joy your dog gets when you play with him with the toy, rather than when he plays with the toy by himself. Human examples abound. Think of the many, many ways that entering a stadium for a game is reinforced for a sports fan.

    Back to the curious combination of R- plus R+. The classic (if dated) example is waiting until there is a commercial during something you’re watching before getting up to get a snack. You get away from the tedious commercial (escape) and you get access to food (appetitive). Most of us dislike commercials, but we rarely walk away from the screen to do nothing for 30 seconds.

    Another example is doing extra work to get some time off from a class. Class isn’t so bad, but hey, a friend will take you waterskiing that day if you get the time off!

    Synthesized reinforcement is also the reason it is kind to provide another source of an appetitive when you are performing aversive husbandry activities. This is a lot kinder than just saying, “Hey, my dog can leave if he wants to.” If there is nothing else to do in the room and you control the only source of food, simply leaving is not such a great thing!

    So here is my real-life example.

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a red and black plaid harness and standing in the street. His tail droops a little bit from his normal carriage and he looks worried.
    Lewis’ second harness. He’s worried in the photo.

    Setting the Scene (the Antecedents)

    I walk my dogs individually every single day except in the case of illness or very bad weather. I have always gone in order of seniority, so young Lewis goes last.

    In the cooler months, we walk in the late afternoon. While I’m walking with Lewis, my partner fixes the dogs’ suppers. Lewis knows the routine: when he gets home from his walk, his supper will be waiting. Have I mentioned that he is excitable?

    In contrast, in the hot months, I walk the dogs much later. It’s near dusk and long after they have eaten their suppers.

    The Action: Harness Removal

    Lewis is excited to get his harness off (the teal one in the photo below) when his supper is waiting. But the tracking unit on his GPS collar is bulky. That means the harness can catch on the collar if he moves while I’m manipulating the straps. So I set a contingency on harness removal: I don’t remove the harness until he stays still.

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a blue and purple harness. He has his back to the camera and is looking at something.
    A harness we used for a time after Lewis gained some weight.

    Our system is that first I unsnap the two buckles. Then he needs to be particularly still while I maneuver the harness over the transmitter on the collar. After I’ve done that, I give his release cue. Lightning fast, he jerks his head all the way out of the harness and dashes to get his supper.

    Usually I give my dogs a treat after I put on or take off their harnesses. Having someone fiddle with straps and snaps around your body is not the most fun thing. But in this situation, Lewis is completely uninterested in that one treat; his supper is waiting for him.

    I’ve described a whole chain of behaviors and consequences. Lewis’ behaviors include being still, pulling his head out of the harness while backing up, and running toward his supper. I am going to simplify the scenario somewhat. Let’s focus on his “self-removal” of the harness, the escape behavior.

    A. Harness is in an uncomfortable position (around his neck, half-on, half-off)
    B. Lewis wriggles out of harness
    C. Harness is off (no longer uncomfortable; free to move away)

    This is a negative reinforcement scenario. But during part of the year, there is another big consequence available that’s tied to escaping the harness: a whole bowl of food. What effects might that have on Lewis’ harness behavior? I had a great way to find out.

    Evidence of Positive Reinforcement

    The immediate function of Lewis whipping his head around is to escape the harness. He wouldn’t whip his head on the way to getting his supper otherwise. But in the summer, Lewis’ behavior changes. When I switch to walking the dogs after supper instead of before, his meal is no longer awaiting him after his walk, and he knows that. When his supper isn’t waiting, he does not whip his head out of the harness. He “helps” me get the harness off, but with a mild twist or wiggle, often after a delay. The behavior has changed from “Let me out of here!” to “Meh, I guess I could pull my head back a little bit to help get this harness off.”

    So the positive reinforcer (supper) appears to have a large role to play! When it is not present, Lewis does only the minimum to help me remove the harness. The topography of the behavior is different and there is no discretionary effort.

    Could I Do Anything Differently with the Harness Removal?

    My tentative conclusion is that there is always an element of negative reinforcement with the act of harness removal, at least with the harnesses I use. If I waive the contingency of the dog being still before getting out of the harness, there is still the automatic negative reinforcement of the behavior of wiggling out. And even standing absolutely still could be an escape behavior if they’ve figured out that’s the most efficient way for the harness to come off.

    But I recently realized the obvious: Instead of removing his harness when he enters, I can unsnap his leash and leave the harness on. No wrangling! I can wait until after Lewis has eaten his supper and experienced anything else interesting that is going on in the house before I remove his harness.

    When I remove the harness after the excitement, there is still an element of automatic negative reinforcement, but there is much less frustration for him. And he accepts my offering of kibble.

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a teal harness and leash and a rainbow collar. He is sniffing some grass, his mouth is slightly oopen, and looks happy and engaged with the environment.
    Lewis in his “big boy” Hurtta harness. To remove it, I have to unsnap two buckles, then pull it over his head.

    The Big Picture

    The idea of synthesized reinforcement is a fascinating one, but it’s also annoying. It can dislodge a lot of assumptions. It ruins our hopes, once again, that we live in a neat and binary world. That if we just follow the right formulae, that if we are careful with our functional assessments, we can teach our dogs successful pet behaviors without any presence of aversives. That we can reduce every situation to one contingency, so we know which ones to use and which ones to avoid. That doesn’t always happen for me.

    Synthesized reinforcement also doesn’t fit perfectly if we think in terms of contingency tables (“quadrants”), which I still do. Modern behavior analysts categorize behavior more and more by function. Usually there are four to six possible functions identified, depending on your source. You will find behavioral functions listed most often as social, escape, tangible, and sensory (Cooper et al., 2014, p. 511). Lewis’ harness behavior would be described as escape to a tangible (some systems would further specify an edible). The synthesized reinforcement example I listed above, playing with your dog with a toy, adds social reinforcement to access to a tangible.

    But I live in the dog training world, and we are still wrestling with contingency tables. If you think I am on my way to promoting R-, you haven’t read much of my stuff. Escape to a tangible is super common in the human world. But in training and other dealings with dogs, what I have seen is that escape contingencies (R-) are mostly implemented by humans in unpleasant ways for dogs. And even what seems to us to be a minor aversive consequence can have fallout. I’ll stick mostly with the contingency way of discussing things for now, while learning more about functional categories.

    Living with our dogs, it is very, very hard to avoid R- completely. I accept that R- is present sometimes even though I don’t want it to be. I am committed to being transparent about that. When I required Lewis to be still while I pulled his harness over his head, I was using an R- contingency for safety. But I figured out how to recast that situation by removing his harness after he ate instead of before. Observing tiny aversive moments allows me to practice my analysis, burrow deeply, and pursue my goal of making my dogs’ lives better.

    References and Resources

    Note: Most of these resources involve the use of ABA with children, either deaf or autistic. Some people may prefer not to check them out. See my statement about ABA on my training philosophy page.

    Cooper, J. O., Heron, T. E., & Heward, W. L. (2014). Applied behavior analysis, second edition. Pearson.

    Ghaemmaghami, M., Hanley, G. P., Jin, S. C., & Vanselow, N. R. (2016). Affirming control by multiple reinforcers via progressive treatment analysis. Behavioral Interventions, 31(1), 70-86.

    Holehan, K. M., Dozier, C. L., Diaz de Villegas, S. C., Jess, R. L., Goddard, K. S., & Foley, E. A. (2020). A comparison of isolated and synthesized contingencies in functional analyses. Journal of Applied Behavior Analysis, 53(3), 1559-1578.

    Smith, S. W., Arroyo Antúnez, B. E., DeBartelo, J., Sullivan, W. E., Roane, H. S., & Craig, A. R. (2024). Synthesized alternative reinforcement and resurgence. Journal of the Experimental Analysis of Behavior, 122(2), 195-206.

    Osborne, J. G. (1969). Free‐time as a reinforcer in the management of classroom behavior. Journal of Applied Behavior Analysis, 2(2), 113-118.

    Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson



    Source link

  • What Is Anticipatory Grief And What Does It Have To Do With Dogs? – Paw Print

    What Is Anticipatory Grief And What Does It Have To Do With Dogs? – Paw Print


    I once read a quote about dogs that I don’t feel like trying to find right now.  If I do end up finding it I’ll update this later.  It was about how dog lovers must sign an invisible contract when they bring a new dog into their lives.  You get insane amounts of unconditional love, snuggles, tail wags, laughter, happy days, and fun.  But the price you eventually have to pay for all that is steep.  I don’t have to type it.  We all know what the price we pay is.  I know all too well what the price we pay is, because I’ve recently paid it.  I’ve been paying it.  I think I paid in extra, because I started making deposits before my balance was due.  Who do I talk to about a refund?  I jest, of course.  This post is about anticipatory grief.  What is it?  And what the heck does it have to do with dogs?

    happy senior dog

    Anticipatory Grief

    Probably somewhat obvious by the name, anticipatory grief, sometimes also referred to as preparatory grief, is a type of grief that is felt before a loss.  Anticipating an impending loss can trigger strong emotions such as sadness, fear, anger, isolation, anxiety, or guilt.  Anticipatory grief is often associated with an impending death, such as in situations where you are aware that yourself, or a loved one, is nearing the end of life.  It can occur in other situations too, however.  Some more common examples included feeling anticipatory grief over the impending loss of a relationship, such as a breakup or divorce, or a major life event such as a move or job change.  “Regular” grief typically occurs after experiencing a loss.  Anticipatory grief is grieving for a loss that has not yet occurred.

    Symptoms of Anticipatory Grief

    Common symptoms of anticipatory grief can include the following…

    • Anger
    • Irritability
    • Numbness and disbelief
    • Guilt
    • Sadness
    • Anxiety
    • Fear
    • Mood swings
    • Loss of control over emotions
    • Desperation
    • Dread
    • Lack of motivation
    • Loneliness
    • Isolation
    • Depression
    • A preoccupation with the terminal loved one

    Sounds fun right (/sarcasm)?  Although it’s thought that anticipatory grief can actually help some people mentally prepare for an impending loss, it’s not a pleasant experience to go through.  The symptoms of anticipatory grief can be bad enough that they negatively impact a person’s everyday life.

    Wait, So Is Anticipatory Grief A Good Thing, Or Bad?

    Studies on anticipatory grief have been pretty inconclusive.  For some people, it does seem to come with some benefits.  Anticipating a major loss before it occurs can help some people to prepare for what is to come.  It can give them time to come to terms with the loss before it happens, which can sometimes make it easier to do things such as say their goodbyes to loved ones, or make necessary preparations ahead of time.  For some people, anticipatory grief can make dealing with a loss easier because they’ve had time to process things ahead of time.

    For other people, anticipatory grief can be, at best, just the beginning of their grieving process.  It doesn’t always adequately help people to prepare for experiencing a loss.  At worst, for others, it can be the beginning stage of prolonged grief disorder.  Between 7% and 10% of adults experience prolonged grief disorder, according to the American Psychiatric Association, which can cause intense, persistent, long term symptoms of grief.

    How to Cope With Anticipatory Grief

    Anticipatory grief can be especially hard.  Oftentimes anticipatory grief ends because the normal grieving process has began.  Many people will experience at least some symptoms of anticipatory grief up until the event they are preparatorily grieving for occurs.

    Talking to understanding loved ones, friends, or even a therapist may help if you are experiencing anticipatory grief.  If you are experiencing extreme symptoms, or symptoms that impact your physical health such as sleeplessness or lack of appetite you should talk to your doctor.  Practicing mindfulness and self care can sometimes help ease symptoms.  Try to maintain a healthy diet and sleep schedule, and exercise regularly if you can.  Meditation or other relaxation exercises may help ease stress.  Find what works for you!  Everyone experiences grief in their own way, and what helps them to get through that grief may differ as well.

    What Does Any Of This Have To Do With Dogs?

    Rest in peace, KitsuneThis is a dog blog after all.  In January of this year (2024) I lost my first dog, my amazing best buddy Kitsune.  After 15 years together, as you can probably imagine, dealing with his death has been hard.  Kit was a live life loud kind of dog, and pretty much up until the day that he died he was making trouble.  Trouble was (literally) his middle name and he 100% lived up to it!  He had cancer, but it, unfortunately, took us a long time to figure out he had cancer.  Who ever suspects that a dog who is barking at you for second dinner and racing around the house not only has cancer, but has advanced, terminal cancer?  I certainly didn’t.  Our vet didn’t either.

    Despite not knowing about Kit’s cancer at the time, I experienced a lot of anticipatory grief especially throughout the last year or so of his life.  I knew that Kit was getting old, and we started having to deal with more health issues with him.  He was diagnosed with IVDD in 2022 so I worried a lot about him experiencing a flare up of that.  He also had arthritis and a heart murmur that we had to stay on top of monitoring.

    Let’s face it, health issues aside every senior dog owner knows they have a very sad day ahead of them.  It’s the price we pay for all the amazing years of love and companionship our dogs give us.  Caring for a beloved aging, senior dog can be a mentally exhausting experience.  For me, I for sure had the symptom of “preoccupation with the terminal loved one” when it came to my anticipatory grief over Kitsune.  I spent a lot of time worrying about Kit and trying to think of new ways to make his life even better.  I’ll never regret doing everything I could to make every moment of his life as happy and as comfortable as possible, but I will admit that the amount of time I was spending worrying about him was causing me a lot of stress.  I would cry sometimes thinking about losing him, which then made me feel frustrated.  I didn’t want to spend whatever amount of time I did have left with him grieving him prematurely.

    papillons cuddly

    Anticipatory Grief Is A Double Edged Sword

    Was the anticipatory grief I experienced before losing my senior dog a good thing or a bad thing?  I will say that it made me really focus a lot of attention on Kit.  Because I was somewhat preoccupied with thinking about his death, I was hyper aware of how important it was to really appreciate the time I had with him.  That last year or so of snuggles were extra sweet.  I admit that I got quite lax when it came to any form of discipline, because how can you say no to a senior dog?  Kit got all the snuggles, and walks, and (almost) all the treats that he wanted.  He’d always been spoiled, but especially so in his last years of life.  No regrets there.

    papillonI feel like really appreciating the time I spent with Kit, and spoiling him so much, in a small way did help me deal with his death.  I knew when he died that we had given him a good life.  That I didn’t take him for granted and that, other than not finding out about his cancer sooner, I didn’t have any major regrets when it came to how I cared for Kit, especially in his senior years.

    But, at the same time, the anticipatory grief was hard.  It was stressful and sad.  In some ways, I feel like it may have been even harder than the actual grief I started dealing with after Kit died.  The actual grief has been really hard, don’t get me wrong, but, for me at least, it’s not as anxiety inducing.  It’s weird to feel like I’ve been grieving for a dog for so long, when he only died 3ish months ago.

    I still have my Alaskan Klee Kai, Fenrir, and I know I’ll more than likely have other dogs in my life in the future.  I hope I don’t experience anticipatory grief with Fenrir or any of my future dogs as strongly as I did with Kitsune.  I’m confident that I can appreciate them in their senior years, the way I did with Kitsune, without the added stress of prematurely grieving them at the same time.  Kit taught me so many important life lessons, one of them, sadly, being about all the hard aspects of living with, and losing, a senior dog.  I’m hoping those lessons will make my next loss a bit easier to deal with, but I guess only time will tell.  And hopefully it will be a very long time before I lose anyone else close to me!

    A Quick Update…

    pet bloggers journey 2024In my last post I said I was going to try to stick to an every other week posting schedule here.  Clearly that hasn’t been working out.  I have to admit, that since losing Kit posting here has just been difficult.  I’ve had some major writer’s block when it comes to writing about dogs, and writing about Kit still makes me cry.  It’s still my plan to post here at least every other week eventually, but for now I’m just going to do what I can.  For anyone who wants to hear from us more often, I’ve been more active on our Instagram and Facebook pages than I have here.

    We are doing ok!  My partner, Fenrir, and I are all really missing Kit.  It just sucks so much not having him around.  It feels like a big part of our little family is missing – because it is.  I still have bad days, and sometimes bad weeks.  But we’re ok.  The weather here is finally warming up so we’ve been trying to spend a lot of time taking advantage of that.  Nature therapy for the win!  Everyday after work I spend time playing outside with Fenrir, and we’ve been fitting in as many spring hikes as we can find time for.

    “Healing in grief is a lot like the onset of spring. It’s unreliable and fickle. One day it’s warmish and blue skies and we think, “Hey! We’re feeling better!” Then the next day -or week- it’s sleeting and gray again. But ever so slowly, we advance into better weather. We can’t rush it. We can’t control it. We can’t skip the dismal days. But we can trust that spring and then summer will come.”
    – Dr.Alan Wolfelt

    Comment Below!

    Have you ever experienced anticipatory grief?  Did you find any techniques that really helped you to deal with it?

    What Is Anticipatory Grief And What Does It Have To Do With Dogs? Pinterest

    We’ve, unfortunately, been dealing with content scrapers stealing our articles. You shouldn’t be seeing this article on any site other than pawprintpetblog.com! If you’re reading this article on any other site, we’d love for you to take the time to contact us and let us know and, if you have the time, stop by and visit us on our official site! Thanks you.





    Source link

  • How Old Can Dogs Be To Have Puppies – And How Old Is Too Old?

    How Old Can Dogs Be To Have Puppies – And How Old Is Too Old?


    This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

    Having a pregnant dog welcome a new litter into the world is one of the greatest things a dog owner can experience.

    If you are ready to experience all the joys of doggy pregnancy, you may be wondering: can dogs be too old to get pregnant, and how old can dogs still have puppies? 

    I was very surprised to discover that dogs are never too old to have puppies!

    Golden Retriever resting while feeding her puppies

    Yup, you read that right—in fact, there is no such thing as doggy menopause and female dogs go into heat during their whole lives.

    However, although dogs are naturally capable of breeding and having puppies well into their senior years, that doesn’t mean that they should.

    Pregnancy can be tough even for young dogs that are in their prime, but older dogs are at a much higher risk of health problems and stillborn puppies. 

    Whether you want a new puppy or you are a breeder thinking about retiring your dogs, it is important to consider the ages of your male and female dogs before breeding them!

    QUICK TIP: If you’re going to have a litter of puppies make sure you have all the essential puppy supplies. Our #1 puppy product we recommend you send home with all new puppy owners is the Calmeroos Puppy Heartbeat Toy.

    In this article, I will tell you everything you need to know about responsible breeding and dog fertility.

    What Is The Oldest Age At Which A Dog Can Have Puppies?

    Before I go any further into the topic of when is a dog too old to have puppies, let’s touch on the subject of when is a dog considered to be a senior in need of special care.

    Knowing that your pooch is an elderly citizen will help you determine whether it is safe and appropriate for your dog to get pregnant in the first place. 

    Most dogs enter their senior years when they are around seven years old; however, the aging process is slightly different for small and large breed dogs.

    A tiny Chihuahua, for example, is considered a senior when they reach 11 years of age. On the other hand, a giant breed such as a Great Dane is considered a senior by the time they are five years old. 

    The aging difference between smaller and larger breeds is mainly due to their size. Several studies have confirmed that larger breeds tend to age much faster than their smaller counterparts. 

    Therefore, how old is too old for a dog to have puppies is directly related to the size of that particular dog.

    Unlike people, female and male dogs technically remain fertile their whole lives. However, their fertility and ability to whelp healthy puppies decrease as they get older. 

    Let’s see at what age dogs can have puppies, starting with male dogs.

    What Is The Oldest Age A Male Dog Can Sire Puppies?

    A healthy male dog can still sire puppies until very old age. In fact, most professional breeders will retire male dogs much later than their females.

    According to AKC rules, you can register a litter of puppies sired by a male dog that was no more than 12 years old at the time of mating.

    In practice, most reputable breeders will retire their male dogs when they are between 10 and 12 years old.

    However, just because a male dog is over 12 doesn’t mean that he is incapable of siring puppies. Older male dogs are still capable of impregnating females, but they aren’t as fertile as they once were and may need more tries to get a female dog pregnant. 

    Age is just one of several factors that affect the ability of a male dog to sire puppies. The age at which a male dog can have puppies also depends on the quality and quantity of its sperm. 

    So, many professional breeders will check the sperm count of their male dogs regularly, at least once a month, to see if they are still capable of siring litters. 

    Additionally, breeders will check many other things to determine whether their male dogs are too old for breeding and ready to be retired. A low conception rate is another sign that a dog is getting too old to sire puppies regularly. 

    This means that a male dog fails to get a female dog pregnant during ideal conditions: one mating per day and a completely healthy female. 

    Furthermore, a breeder may decide that the male dog is too old to sire puppies if their partner continually produces smaller litters, or if the puppies are weak and sick. 

    What Is The Oldest Age A Female Dog Can Have Puppies?

    QUICK RECOMMENDATION: If you’re thinking about having a litter of puppies make sure you get all your whelping supplies well in advance. Our #1 pick is the Deluxe Pro Whelping Kit for puppies. Check out our Whelping Supplies Checklist for more of our favorites.

    You may be surprised to learn that female dogs don’t go through menopause and can technically get pregnant throughout their whole lives.

    This can come as a big shock, especially if you think that it’s safe for your older female pooch to go off-leash and hang out with other dogs in the park.

    According to the AKC rules, a dam must not be more than 12 years of age at the time of mating, if you want to register the litter. However, a lot of breed clubs, including the UK Kennel Club, set eight years as a maximum limit for breeding female dogs.

    When it comes to nature’s order, female dogs can still get pregnant even if they are older than 12 and remain fertile their whole lives.

    However, at this grand age, most female dogs have birthing difficulties, and serious complications are often seen during labor. 

    When they become pregnant, older female dogs may have trouble giving birth, and seeing stillborn puppies in a litter is unfortunately quite common.

    Additionally, older dogs may have trouble producing enough milk to nurse their puppies, who often die if not bottle-fed by their human caregivers. 

    Due to all these risks and complications, most reputable breeders decide to retire their dams when they are around five or six years old.

    To determine whether or not to retire a female dog from a breeding program, the breeders consider the same factors as for male dogs.

    The breeder will compare conception rates, litter sizes, the dam’s health, complications during delivery, and the time needed for recovery.

    Taking all of these criteria into account can give you a good idea of whether it is safe to continue breeding your female dog or not.

    Our Golden Retriever, Raven was a breeding dog. She was retired by her breeder when she was 6 years old at which time we officially adopted her.

    If you own a female dog, the most important thing to remember is that she can get pregnant at any time during her life. Although older dogs are less fertile than their younger counterparts, there is still a risk of unwanted pregnancy. 

    So, you will have to watch your pooch and prevent any unwanted mating or opt to have her spayed if her age and overall health don’t pose any risk for the procedure.

    Now that you know that dogs can become pregnant their entire lives, talk with your vet about the best ways to prevent unwanted pregnancies.

    QUICK RECOMMENDATION: If you have intact male and female dogs a good way to manage them when your female is in heat is with barriers like pet gates and dog crates. We use these tools to help keep our dogs separate.

    At What Age Can Dogs Start To Have Puppies?

    If the fact that dogs can have puppies throughout their lives catches you off guard, you’ll be even more surprised to learn that most dogs reach sexual maturity while they are still puppies. You read that right: Your cute, fluffy puppy can have puppies of its own! 

    Once they reach sexual maturity, male dogs can mate at any time, even every day! Females, on the other hand, can mate only when they are in heat, which usually happens twice a year.

    However, some dogs can go into heat up to four times a year, while others will be ready to mate once a year, depending on their size and breed. 

    Here’s the earliest age a dog can have puppies, starting with male dogs again.

    At What Age Do Male Dogs Become Sexually Mature?

    Male dogs generally become fertile earlier than their female counterparts, usually when they are around five or six months old.

    Toy and small breeds such as Chihuahuas become sexually mature earlier than large breeds. which become fertile when they are between seven and nine months old. 

    However, while they are technically able to impregnate a female dog, you shouldn’t allow males to mate until they are physically mature. In most cases, you should wait until your dog is at least one year old to mate him with a female.

    Keep in mind that large and giant breeds need more time to fully grow, so you should wait until your pooch is 18 to 24 months old to breed him for the first time. 

    OUR EXPERIENCE: We’ve purchased from Labrador and Golden Retriever breeders. The breeders we’ve worked with wait until their dogs are around 2 years old and passed all their health clearances before breeding them.

    If you decide to use your male dog for siring litters, you will first have to ensure that he is completely healthy and fertile. Your vet can help with that and provide health clearances that your dog is a qualified stud dog ready for breeding. 

    Once a male dog reaches sexual maturity, he remains fertile his entire life. However, their sperm count tends to be low during the beginning and the end of their reproductive cycle.

    That’s why it’s important to wait until your puppy becomes fully grown before first breeding and avoid breeding dogs that are too old.

    At What Age Do Female Dogs Become Sexually Mature?

    Unlike male dogs, who can mate literally every single day once they reach puberty, female dogs can breed only when they are in heat.

    Female dogs usually reach sexual maturity when they are six months old, but smaller breeds can go into heat as early as four months of age. 

    Even though they are fertile and able to get pregnant, it’s not recommended to breed female dogs during their first heat cycle. As with male dogs, you should wait until your female is fully grown before attempting to mate her for the first time. 

    The size and breed of your dog will determine when the best time is to mate your female for the first time. Smaller breeds reach adulthood earlier than their larger counterparts and can consequently become pregnant safely much earlier. 

    After having their first estrus, also known as heat or season, female dogs usually go into heat every six months until they get old.

    However, this time frame can vary from one dog to another and can depend on the size of the dog. Generally, smaller dogs go into heat more regularly than larger breeds and can produce more litters during their lifetime. 

    The heat cycle is divided into four stages: proestrus, estrus, diestrus, and anestrus. In the proestrus phase, which lasts around nine days, a female dog has a bloody vaginal discharge and attracts males, but won’t breed with them. 

    The estrus phase also lasts around nine days, at which time the female is fertile and will be allowed to be mounted by a male dog. In most cases, ovulation happens within the first 48 hours of the estrus phase, but this can vary greatly.

    The diestrus phase lasts 60 to 90 days, during which time the dog’s reproductive system is under the control of the hormone progesterone.

    This phase happens whether or not the dog has gotten pregnant, and some dogs may develop signs of false pregnancy during this stage.

    Lastly, the anestrus phase is the time when a female dog can no longer become pregnant and is a period without sexual activity. In most cases, this stage lasts between three to four months. 

    Although some become fertile much earlier, the AKC rules don’t permit the registration of any litters from dams that are younger than eight months old at the time of the mating.

    And while old female dogs can have puppies, the female’s fertility starts to drop after five years of age.

    Female dogs that are too young or too old can’t handle the strain the pregnancy puts on their bodies, which often leads to birthing complications, premature labor, and stillborn puppies.

    That’s why it is imperative that you don’t start breeding your dam too early or continue to do so when she gets old.

    FAQs About How Old A Dog Can Be And Still Have Puppies

    Can a dog be too old to have puppies?

    Technically, both female and male dogs can have puppies their whole lives. However, a dog’s fertility drops after the age of seven, and most female dogs can’t become pregnant quite as often as they used to.

    The same happens to male dogs, and while they are still able to have puppies their fertility rate isn’t as high as it used to be.

    The actual labor is also more difficult and risky for older dogs and is commonly accompanied by complications. Older dogs also may have problems producing milk and nursing their puppies. 

    What is the age limit for breeding a dog?

    The AKC rules don’t allow registration of any litter of a dam that is less than eight months old or more than 12 years old at the time of mating.

    Additionally, any litter that is sired by a male dog that is less than seven months old or more than 12 years old at the time of mating can’t be registered with the AKC. 

    On the other hand, the UK Kennel Club, the VHD in Germany, and many other clubs list the maximum age limit at eight years for female dogs. 

    Can a 9-year-old dog have puppies?

    A 9-year-old dog can technically get pregnant and give birth to a litter of puppies. However, most reputable breeders won’t breed such an old female dog because of the risks associated with the pregnancy and birthing complications. 

    However, an older female dog can absolutely get pregnant if mounted by a fertile male during her heat cycle. To prevent any health problems and unwanted pregnancies, keep a close eye on your dog while in heat and consider spaying her. 

    Is it bad for a 1-year-old dog to have puppies? 

    Most dogs reach puberty and become fertile when they are six months old, although they shouldn’t have puppies until they are fully grown. Small breeds reach adulthood when they are one year old and can safely have puppies if they are done growing. 

    However, large and giant breeds continue growing until they are between 18 and 24 months old, and they shouldn’t have puppies until they reach adulthood.

    A one-year-old Great Dane is still a puppy, and it would be bad for a growing pup to get pregnant and have to take care of a litter of newborn puppies. 

    Conclusion

    Knowing how old dogs can be to have puppies is an important piece of information if you plan to breed your dog at some point in their life.

    While technically dogs are fertile and can have puppies their whole lives, older female dogs are at risk of premature labor, stillborn puppies, and birthing complications.

    To ensure that your dog’s pregnancy goes well, here’s what you need to remember:

    • Males can sire litters until they are between 10 and 12 years old
    • Breeders retire female dogs when they are five to six years old
    • Don’t breed your dog until it is fully grown

    While it is hard to imagine that dogs can have puppies their whole lives, you should be careful not to breed your dog when they are too young or too old.

    Before breeding your pooch, talk with your vet and have your dog throughout examined.

    Are you a breeder?

    Have you worked with or bought a dog from a breeder?

    If so, do you know how old their breeding dogs are?

    Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below.

    Save To Pinterest

    Golden Retriever resting while she feeds her puppies.

    UPDATE: This post was originally published on May 10th, 2021. We periodically update blog posts with new experiences and information to keep them as relevant as possible.

    Top Picks For Our Puppies

    1. BEST DOG CHEW
      We Like: Beef Collagen Sticks – All of our pups love to bite, nip, and chew. We love using Collagen Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors.
    2. BEST PUPPY TOY
      We Like: Calmeroos Puppy Toy w/ Heartbeat and Heat Packs – Perfect for new puppies. Helps ease anxiety in their new home.
    3. BEST DOG TREATS
      We Like: Crazy Dog Train-Me Treats – We use these as our high-value treats for our guide dog puppies.
    4. BEST FRESH DOG FOOD
      We Like: The Farmer’s Dog – A couple months ago we started feeding Raven fresh dog food and she loves it! Get 50% off your first order of The Farmer’s Dog.

    Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist.



    Source link

  • Protecting Your Dog’s Health And The Best Way To Deal With Worms


    For those of us who have the joy of owning a puppy or dog, there is nothing more special and beautiful than seeing our little buddies coming at us with those fluffy happy faces like they were yelling “I love you” when they see us. For this reason, we as pet owners try to do our best to simply give them the very best experience they can possibly have while they live their lives by our side.

     

    This is why we make sure to be informed about how to keep our dog or puppy in the best health condition they can be. We all want our best friend to be happy and live as long as possible. And there are ways we can make sure our canine friends are always in great shape and feeling good.

     

     

    Puppyhood

    Before we start talking about how to boost our dog’s immune system we must first understand what it is and how it works.

     

    The immune system of a dog, just like our own human immune system, is what protects them from outside intruders such as viruses, toxins, bacterias, and other threats. The immune system is armed with a set of specialized cells, proteins, and organs that work together as a team to protect their bodies from getting sick or keeping disease at bay and helping in their recovery.

     

    When a puppy is born, they receive a very important gift from their mother, their first milk. This first milk is produced by their mother’s mammary glands immediately following the birth of their newborn puppies, and it is called colostrum.

     

    Colostrum contains antibodies and a high concentration of proteins that will protect the newborn baby against disease. These proteins will still be produced in the mother’s milk, but never as concentrated as it is present in colostrum. The nutrients provided by colostrum will also have some laxative effects that will allow puppies to pass their first stool and dispose of wastes that were produced in large quantities during birth.

     

    Many people think colostrum replacement products will actually do the same job as their mother’s first milk, but this is not true. Colostrum replacement products actually come from cows and do not contain the same components, although it does have some proteins that are common in all mammals.

     

    When a puppy lose their mom for whatever reason and fails to receive colostrum from her, it is very difficult to raise them as they lack the resistance that they were going to be granted with their first milk; so they will get sick very easily and are at a high risk of dying when they’re still babies.

     

    When a female dog gives birth, they’ll produce colostrum for several days, but it is most crucial for the newborn pups to get their mother’s milk within the first twelve hours after delivery. Drinking colostrum after this period of time does not have the same benefits, as their digestive systems will no longer soak up the antibodies anymore.

     

    Puppies should nurse until they are at least four weeks old, but they shouldn’t leave their mother and littermates until they are at least eight weeks old. It is recommended to vaccinate your puppy between six to sixteen weeks of age.

     

    Dogs that are younger than one year of age are generally considered puppies. But this varies from breed to breed. Some dog breeds mature earlier than others. You should determine when to stop feeding your dog with puppy food. Usually, small breeds can switch to regular dog food between nine to twelve months, and large breeds can take up to twenty-four months.

     

     

    Boosting your dog’s immune system

    When your dog has a strong and healthy immune system, it will be like having a protective force field around them; this might sound silly but it is like it is. The immune system is the first line of defense your canine partner has to fight against viruses, bacteria, parasites and other sort of pathogens that can hurt them and make them sick.

     

    Even when your dog gets sick, the immune system will be the one working to restore your dog’s body back to health.When your dog’s immune system weakens, your dog’s body will be defenseless against chronic disease, toxins, illness and deterioration.

     

    This is why it is so important to keep your dog’s immune system at its best in order to allow their body to be fully able to fight environmental pathogens and diseases. There are ways to boost immune system in dogs, like the following:

     

    Keep your dog hydrated:

     

    Just like us humans, dogs need water to keep the immune system strong. Fresh and clean water is fundamental for a healthy canine body to function properly. Keeping your buddy hydrated not only helps their body to dispose of those harmful toxins that are already in there, but it also has several benefits like regulating body temperature, process oxygen, help with blood flow and allow proper digestion of food and assimilation of nutrients.

     

    So yes, drinking water is very good for your doggy; and they should be drinking at least twelve ounces of water for every ten pounds of weight. So you should know how much your dog weighs, in order to provide at least the minimum amount of water they need to keep them healthy. If your dog weighs fifty pounds, they should be drinking at least sixty ounces of water per day. You must be aware that this amount might increase if you have a very active dog, so don’t be afraid to give them as much water as they require.

     

    Feed you dog properly:

     

    A balanced diet is fundamental for a healthy immune system. Even when dogs are considered omnivorous like us humans, they need a higher proportional intake of protein, so if you plan to feed your dog a vegan diet you must be extremely careful, protein is the most important step in the dog’s food pyramid. Other requirements for dog’s food are fat, carbs, vitamins and minerals.

     

    Antioxidants and other nutrients play a big role in keeping your dog healthy. Some very good sources of antioxidants are: Apples, plums, cabbage, broccoli and beans. Some dog foods contain antioxidants but not in important quantities to make a difference in your dog’s health. You can also provide your dog all the antioxidants, vitamins and minerals they need in the form of tablets. But you must be cautious, you don’t want to give your dog too much of these supplements as they might turn harmful in high quantities, consult your vet when you plan to give your dog any special supplement.

     

    Keep in mind that your dog’s weight will also affect their general health condition, and make their immune system struggle. So check if they’re overweight, they might need to get on a diet, or need some exercise.

     

    Keep your dog active:

     

    Sedentarism is terrible for both humans and pets. Overweight dogs are at risk of suffering from a variety of conditions, from diabetes to heart disease. It is important to feed your dog properly and keep them active enough to burn all those extra calories.

     

    There is a reason why people walk their dogs or pay someone to walk them. Dogs require physical activity to stay healthy. Other ways to help them burn those extra calories is by playing with them, they will enjoy this activity very much because they will be spending time with you. There is nothing better than having a healthy and happy dog.

     

     

    Deworming your dog

    One of the things you will have to deal with as a dog owner is the problem of parasites; dogs are ideal hosts for these. Dogs are always playing around dirt, trash, excrement, etc. sticking their noses and licking whatever they find on the street. It is only logical that they will get in trouble with parasites.

     

    It is very probable that your dog will get worms at one time or another. Diarrhea and vomiting are signs that something is not ok, and you might want to take your canine friend on a trip to the vet in order to make sure your dog is indeed dealing with worms.

     

    A fresh stool sample will provide your vet what they need to find out if your dog has worms or not. As tapeworms, hookworms, roundworms and whipworms will live in your dog’s intestines.

     

    The sooner you treat your dog and deal with their worm problems, the sooner your dog will go back to normal and feel healthy again. Your vet will indicate what medicine will be better for your pet, these drugs usually will be effective against a wide range of parasites.

     

    Don’t be surprised if you start to see worms in your dog’s poops after the deworming process has started, this is quite normal. These sorts of medications can come in the form of tablets, and you will need to make sure your dog swallows it all. For puppies, these tablets can be difficult to swallow so there are liquid options available for them.

     

    You might want to prevent worms instead of treating your dog against them. Dogs who already suffered worms in the past might get infected once again as the worming medicine will kill the big worms but some eggs might still be left around your dog’s intestines. Your vet will decide how long you should keep giving your dog this medication until they are finally free from these parasites.

     

    Regular treatment is the best defence against worms and other parasites. Regular worming throughout your dog’s life will help keep your dog healthy and happy. Make sure your vet checks your dog for all kinds of worms at least once a year. Get a prescription from your vet for the drug to prevent heartworms. Keep your dog flea-free. And keep your dog clean. They are not aware of the invisible dangers in the world, but you are. So do what you can to keep them healthy and feeling good.

     

     

    What is the best way to deworm your dog?

    The best way to deal with worms and build immunity on your dog is by giving them a blend of natural ingredients with all the supplements they need to remain healthy and happy. This is why we recommend Vibralife as a tasty way to give your dog a happy and vibrant life.

     

    The all-natural ingredients baked into a pellet for topdressing your dog’s feed. It’s a tasty way to give your dog what they need. Helping to gently remove parasites, establish a thick and shiny hair coat, and heal the gut lining and stomach. It has also helped female dogs overcome reproductive problems, including infertility, insufficient milk supply, and inconsistent cycles.

    The Reed Sedge Peat and Diatomaceous Earth in Vibralife work as a team to bind and prevent parasites that are common in young puppies. Psyllium Husk works to heal and protect the stomach and gut lining, while the oils help improve digestion and skin and hair quality. Yeast and Kelp help the immune and reproductive systems. Unlike most commercial dewormers that are hard on lactating females, Vibralife supports healthy lactating.

     

     

    Natural ways to prevent worms

    So you are looking for natural ways to prevent those annoying worms from getting into your fluffy friend’s life. Prevention is always the best defense. Although they are not as effective as medicine prescribed by your veterinarian of trust, or Vibralife Health Supplement Multivitamin and Natural Dewormer; these alternatives can help prevent parasites from getting into your fluffy friend:

     

    Chamomile is a herb that comes from daisy-like plants of the family Asteraceae. Chamomile has been used in traditional medicine across the globe for thousands of years. It can help with bloating and inflammation caused by internal parasites, and sometimes get rid of whipworms and roundworms.

     

    Apple cider vinegar is another well known traditional natural medicine. It is basically apple juice with added yeast that turns the juice’s sugar into alcohol through fermentation. Then, non harmful bacteria turn the alcohol into acetic acid. There are several benefits that come from drinking apple cider vinegar, among those is to increase the alkaline levels in your dog’s intestines making it inhospitable for parasites and worms.

     

    Coconut oil can also help eliminate worms from your canine friend’s body, it has antibacterial and antiviral properties that may help clear a pinworm infection. It also has other health benefits like fighting fungus, boosting metabolism, preventing skin infections and more.

     

    These are just a few examples of natural alternatives to prevent worms and other parasites to get into your little buddy. Keep in mind that medication and a strong immune system will always be the most efficient way to deal with this sort of problem.

     

     

    Dog Owners

    There are several things you must remember as a responsible dog owner in order to keep your dog healthy and happy. A balanced diet, avoiding overweight and providing vitamins and nutrients is top of the list along with exercise and everyday activity. Remember that your vet will always know what is best for your dog, so don’t miss annual check outs.

     

    Worms and other parasites are a serious matter to be always aware of, the process of deworming can get really unpleasant, both for you and your dog. The best defense is prevention, there is medicine your dog should take recurrently to avoid worms, there are also amazing blends that will provide everything your dog needs to fight, get rid and prevent these parasites. And there are also natural alternatives that can do a lot of good to your dog.

     

    The most important thing is to try to keep yourself informed about your dog’s health. It’s not easy to be a dog owner, but having a happy pet who loves you unconditionally is truly worth it.

     

     



    Source link

  • How To Prevent And Stop Household Dogs From Fighting

    How To Prevent And Stop Household Dogs From Fighting


    This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

    Your two dogs seemed to get along so well. But now all of a sudden they seem to hate each other.

    Max attacks Bailey periodically. And your household is very stressful now.

    Yellow Lab, Golden, and Black Lab fighting in the grass.

    This is not totally uncommon. In fact, a few days ago I got an email addressing this very issue:

    We got our puppy potty trained, crate trained, obedience trained, but now he’s attacking and fighting with my older dog. I never thought this would be an issue. I thought my dog’s would be best pals, but now I’m looking for tips on how to stop dogs from fighting. What should I do?

    —C.C.

    It’s important to discover why the fights are occurring so that you can attempt to fix the problem.

    In this article, I’ll discuss why dogs may fight as well as how to prevent it. Also, I’ll deal with what to do if a fight occurs.

    It’s important to prevent fights from occurring, if possible.

    Why Household Dogs May Fight

    There are many reasons why dogs in the same household fight. Even dogs who have been together for a while may start to fight.

    When a new dog joins the family, there’s always a period of adjustment. Sometimes fights break out for various reasons.

    As the stress increases in a dog’s life, fights are more likely to occur.

    The following are some of the likely reasons dogs in the same household may fight.

    To Maintain the Hierarchy

    In the wild, there’s a separate hierarchy for male and female dogs. In our homes too, there’s a greater likelihood of fighting between dogs of the same sex. 

    There’s also a greater likelihood of non-neutered dogs fighting each other.

    1. Guarding Their Owner

    Dogs may guard many resources. Resources include things that are valuable to the dog.

    Of course, we’re a very valuable resource to our dogs. We give them attention, feed them, walk them, play with them, train them, take them out to socialize them and give them great treats and chews.

    So some dogs guard their owners and the space around them.

    When Fido in the same household gets too close to the owner, Max may attack. And Fido may fight back. 

    Both dogs–and the owner–may be injured in such a skirmish.

    2. Guarding Other Resources

    Some dogs guard other valuable resources against other dogs. Of course, food, treats, bones, and toys are seen as important to many dogs.

    There’s also a threshold distance beyond which a dog won’t attack. However, if another dog gets too close, the dog with the bone will attack.

    The distance at which a dog will attack varies by the dog.

    3. Change in a Resident Dog’s Health or Age

    Some dogs may sense that another dog in the household has become ill. And the healthier dog sometimes will attack the sick dog.

    Another scenario is when a dog matures and challenges the older dog.

    4. Changes in the Household or Routine

    Any change in members of the family, such as when one leaves for college, can cause stress in a dog’s life. 

    Even changes in routines, such as when someone gets a new job, can be very stressful for a dog.

    Some dogs find such changes very difficult and can’t adjust. As their stress level increases, so will their propensity to fight.

    5. Changes in the Canine Social Group

    When a dog leaves the home or a new dog joins, there’s a period of adjustment.

    A more confident dog may have passed away and a new hierarchy is established between the remaining dogs. Or a new dog may challenge the established hierarchy.

    6. Redirection When Dogs Become Overstimulated

    Sometimes a dog will become too aroused by an event and attack whatever is nearby–including another resident dog.

    Even though the stimulus is unrelated to the other dog, an attack can occur.

    This can also happen when the owner or a visitor arrives or departs or even when the mailman delivers mail.

    7. Underlying Anxiety

    Some dogs with a stress or anxiety disorder may attack another dog when their stress crosses a threshold.

    This can, for example, happen when a dog is noise-sensitive. Even though he may be alright with regular household noises, if a new noise–like that from a delivery truck–occurs, he may become overstimulated.

    And he may attack a nearby dog.

    Some dogs have separation anxiety and, because they are overly stressed when an owner departs, may attack another dog.

    8. Improper Socialization

    A dog who was improperly socialized may be more likely to attack another dog. He might not properly read another’s body language.

    For example, the other dog may be enticing him to play. But the unsocialized dog reads it as an attempt to fight.

    9. Play May Escalate 

    Sometimes dogs may be playing appropriately. Then, the play escalates. One dog becomes too rough. A fight may break out.

    10. Enclosed Spaces

    When reactive or overly-stimulated dogs are in enclosed spaces, like during a car ride, dogs may fight.

    11. Social Aggression

    In social aggression, neither dog will defer to the other. This is not dominance and isn’t dependent on the dog’s age or breed.

    12. Reaction to a Shock Collar

    A dog who’s shocked with a shock collar is a stressed dog. Whether the owner is shocking the dog or the dog is shocked on an invisible fence, he may fight with a nearby dog.

    Not only is the dog stressed but he may also associate the pain with the nearby dog.

    My husband was walking our rescued Lhasa apso Linkin when a pug attacked. Luckily, the dogs were separated quickly.

    It turned out that the pug’s owner shocked the dog with an electric collar whenever a dog passed his home. He didn’t want the pug to leave his property.

    Of course, there are better ways to keep your dog safe. And the fallout from the shock collar was obvious. The poor pug was very defensive against passing dogs.

    13. Medical Reasons

    Sometimes a dog may be in pain and, if the other dog gets too close or bumps into him, the dog in pain may attack.

    There are many other reasons, such as a change in a dog’s thyroid levels, that can account for the way he behaves.

    Warning Signs of a Fight

    Read each dog’s body language. Of course, you have to look at the whole picture as no one sign necessarily indicates that a dog may fight. Separate them before things escalate to a fight.

    Some of the body language that a dog shows prior to fighting:

    • Growling
    • Baring teeth
    • Ears raised high
    • Raised hackles
    • Stiffened body
    • Staring
    • Mounting

    The weaker dog may show signs of submission like tucked tail or flattened ears.

    How To Prevent Fights

    There are some measures you can take to help prevent fights. It’s better to prevent them than to have to stop them after they occur.

    People and dogs can become injured when there’s a fight. Also, a dog will remember that he’s been attacked. It may be very difficult–if not impossible–for them to get along afterward.

    I’ve had as many as seven dogs at the same time (a Belgian Tervuren shepherd, a shih tzu, a golden retriever, two Shih tzus, and two Lhasa apsos). Three of them (the golden and Lhasas) were rescue dogs.

    It was quite a group with various natural instincts.

    I always managed their environment and introduced a new member very carefully in order to avoid fights.

    All play and interactions were observed. And if I saw that things started to get too rough, I would redirect the dogs to something else, like coming to me.

    I don’t believe that dogs should “work it out.” There’s too much at stake. They may become severely injured. 

    A person attempting to break up a fight can too. And the dogs may never be able to live together again.

    Depending on why they are fighting, there are various measures you can take.

    Manage the Dogs’ Environment

    If resources are an issue, you should do the following. Feed them separately. Give them high-value things like bones separately. Keep things that they’ll guard out of reach.

    PRO-TRAINER TIP: In any case, when the situation cannot be managed successfully, it’s important to get professional behavioral help. Make sure to hire a behavior specialist who uses positive reinforcement and who has successfully managed such issues in the past.

    I recommend getting professional help when a dog is guarding a person. It’s too dangerous to potentially have a fight between a dog with people nearby.

    Also, don’t let dogs take bones or other desired objects from each other if there’s a chance they’ll guard them.  They should have them separately as long as they don’t guard them against you.

    Limit Rough Play

    It’s great if your dogs play properly together. But don’t let things escalate to the point where a fight might occur.

    Don’t let one dog mount another or get too rough pinning another. Even chase games can escalate when one dog reaches the other. And the chased dog may fight.

    Train your dogs to come to you no matter what. A reliable recall is crucial. So, if you see things escalate, you can interrupt the play and praise and reward each dog with a small treat for coming to you.

    Let the dogs settle down before allowing them to play again.

    Redirect to something else to do if they’ve played long enough and are getting tired. A dog who is too tired will be more stressed and, therefore, more likely to fight.

    Right now, I have a golden retriever, two shelties, an Aussie mix, and a Lhasa apso who all play together at various times.

    They have different play styles and energy levels. I make sure I’m present and watch them playing.

    If they’re getting too revved up or start to get rough, I call them over and praise and reward them. If I think they’ve played long enough, we stop and I redirect them to something else to do, such as a puzzle toy. Luckily, this group doesn’t guard objects.

    Give Each Dog His Own Space

    It’s important that each dog who has had disagreements has his own space. Usually, this is important for any dog so that conflicts don’t arise.

    So give them individual crates and beds.

    Encourage Calm Behavior

    Calmly praise and reward calm behavior. At first, work with each dog individually. Work without distractions, then add them as the dog is able to handle them. 

    Then, once each dog understands what’s expected, you can work with them together.

    I believe in teaching a “settle” command, in which the dog learns to settle and be calm on cue.

    It also helps if you can send them each to a place individually, such as two beds on opposite sides of the room.

    Choose Dogs of Opposite Sex

    This is just a tip some people recommend. As a general rule, male and female dogs are more likely to get along than two dogs of the same sex will.

    Of course, there are many variables such as the dog’s genetics and socialization that play a role in whether he’ll get along with another canine.

    And, if you want more than two dogs, this isn’t possible.

    Allow the Dogs To Have Some Down Time

    It’s important for dogs to not always be “on.” They need rest and some time alone.

    Giving them such time will help them not be stressed and will help prevent separation anxiety.

    (If they already have separation anxiety, it’s important to deal with that issue separately.)

    Obedience Training

    It’s important for dogs to be trained. A trained dog has more confidence and understands what’s expected of him.

    It can also help stave off any potential fights. You can call your dog to you. You can have him do a sit or down stay. Or any other behavior that helps him settle down.

    Exercise

    Exercise is important for all dogs. But it can also help to avoid fights between dogs.

    A dog who’s too excited can go over threshold. Then, even if he doesn’t start a fight another dog may.

    My Aussie mix puppy Millie is a very high-drive dog. So, before she plays with my four-year-old Lhasa apso Ralphie, I make sure she’s had a sufficient amount of physical exercise.

    Otherwise, she’d be too much for him. But, once she’s played ball for a while, she’s not too rough for Ralphie and he enjoys playing with her.

    So it’s important to give your dogs an appropriate amount of exercise for their age and breed.

    Mental exercise is as important to help tire out your pup. You can teach your dog tricks or give them puzzle toys.

    Walk Dogs Separately

    Sometimes dogs fight when they’re walking together. They may be very excited and stressed by the sights and sounds around them. Some dogs redirect aggression at each other.

    In those cars, either walk them separately or have two people walk them at a safe distance apart.

    Of course, you can hire a professional behavior specialist to work with the issue.

    Don’t Leave the Dogs Alone Together

    If your dogs have already fought, do not leave them alone together, as they may fight.

    Even if they’ve never fought, if a dog is a recent addition, you won’t know how they’ll get along. So, better safe than sorry.

    Use Counter-Conditioning and Desensitization

    You want to change the opinion of the dogs towards each other. They should see each other and think that great things happen when the other appears. 

    That is, they get a great treat like a flow of pieces of chicken, when the other appears. 

    You can be in place with one dog on a leash. I recommend putting each dog in a well-fitted harness for this exercise because a tight collar can convey that something’s wrong.

    Then, a helper appears with the other dog at a distance at which neither is reactive. 

    Pro-Trainer Tip: Use only very high-value treats for these exercises. Small pieces of chicken, hot dogs, Crazy Dog Training Treats, or cheese are great for this, as most dogs find them highly desirable. Use these treats only for these behavior management exercises.

    When the dogs notice each other, they get a constant flow of the treat.. Then the dog with the helper goes out of sight and the treats stop.

    Alternatively, the first dog can go out of sight and the dog with the helper remains.

    Do this training exercise for a very short time, such as 20 seconds a time. Do three repetitions in each session.

    If either dog goes over threshold and becomes reactive, end the session. Next time, do a shorter session or at a greater distance from each other. 

    Make sure that the dogs have received a sufficient amount of exercise before doing these behavior exercises.

    Over time, you can decrease the distance between them if the behavior modification is successful.

    Engage in Enjoyable Activities Together

    It’s important that the dogs have positive opinions of each other. So have them engage in safe, enjoyable activities together.

    If they enjoy walks, have a helper to walk one of the dogs. Walk them parallel to each other but at a distance where neither is reactive.

    Block the Outside View or Sound

    If your dogs tend to fight when looking out the window, block the view. Some dogs go over threshold when they see something outside the window.

    Some get overstimulated when they hear outside noises. So play a television or radio or white noise machine.

    Be Calm in the Dogs’ Presence

    Dogs read our body language and scent. I know it’s difficult when you have two or more dogs who may fight, but, as much as possible, be calm. 

    And don’t use a high-pitched voice that may overstimulate the dogs.

    Use Holistic Aids To Help Lessen Stress

    There are many such devices you can use to help the dogs be calmer. There’s a product called Adaptil which comes in a plug-in or spray. The chemical in it is supposed to mimic the dog’s mother and can have a calming effect on dogs.

    There’s also the Rescue Remedy in the Bach Flower Essences that can be put in a dog’s water or on something you give him to eat or on his tongue. This also may help de-stress a dog.

    There’s even a CD called Through a Dog’s Ear that has calming music that’s been studied to help relax dogs.

    Check with your vet before giving any internal products.

    Veterinary Check-Up

    In any case, in which household dogs don’t get along, I recommend that they have a veterinary check-up to determine whether there’s any physical problem. 

    In addition to a check-up, your vet may want to run tests such as a full thyroid panel or bloodwork.

    How To Break Up a Fight

    If there’s any chance you’ll be injured, try to get help. I realize that in some situations this may not be possible. So have certain devices ready in case this may occur.

    But be advised that no method is guaranteed to work. It really depends on the dogs involved.

    And any method may backfire and the dogs may become more aggressive and even redirect aggression on the person attempting to break up the fight.

    This is why I really recommend first cutting off any possible fights before they begin.

    Use a Bucket of Water or a Hose

    If the dogs start to fight, dousing them with water may break it up.

    Use Something To Separate Them

    Get anything handy like a trash can lid, a chair, or a broom to separate them if possible.

    Make a Loud Noise

    Sometimes making a loud noise will distract them and cause the dogs to separate.

    You can bang pans together, ring the doorbell, blow a whistle, use an air horn, or slam a door.

    Throw a Blanket Over Them

    Sometimes this can cause them to separate. Some dogs will stop fighting if they can’t see the other dog.

    Use a Spray Made For the Purpose

    There are citronella sprays such as Direct Stop or Spray Shield that can help break up some dog fights. Or if you have pepper spray, that may work.

    Separate Them If You Have Two People

    This is a last resort, as the dogs and people involved are likely to be injured. I highly recommend the other methods and would not personally use this, though some trainers recommend it.

    This is called the wheelbarrow method. Each person grabs one of the two dogs by his rear legs and lifts them up and apart.

    Be aware that the dogs may turn on the people, with horrible consequences.

    LAST RESORT: Rehome a Dog

    If you’ve tried everything but your dogs still can’t get along, you may want to consider rehoming one.

    I know that this is a horrible thought. The dogs are our family.

    But if you are unable to manage the situation and the dogs fight, each dog lives a very stressful life. They may also become severely physically injured.

    I rarely recommend this, as the situation can often be managed. But, in some cases, rehoming may be the kindest thing for everyone involved.

    What Should You Do After a Fight?

    Calmly remove the dogs to separate safe places. 

    If they know obedience commands, tell them to go to their crate or bed. Or have one in a sit or down stay while you lead the other to another location.

    Check for Injuries and take the dogs to the vet if they’ve been injured. Note that some injuries may be internal and not visible.

    What NOT To Do: DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME

    The relationship between our dogs can be very complex at times. We need to learn what their interactions and body language mean so that we can manage their interactions.

    It’s best to separate dogs before they go over threshold and fight. 

    There are some things that should not be used because of the risk of injury. Also, many of them don’t work and can make the situation worse.

    Don’t Suppress a Growl

    Even when you see one of your dogs growling at another, it’s best to redirect them away from each other.

    Call one over to you. Send them to their individual crates or beds. Do whatever you can do to calmly separate them.

    If you suppress a growl or other sign of aggression, it won’t change the dog’s mindset. Instead, it will teach him not to express a warning before he attacks.

    Don’t Try To Pull Them Apart

    Generally, doing so can cause grave injury to the dogs and the person attempting to separate them.

    As stated above, some people recommend using the wheelbarrow method and have two people, each pulling one dog apart by their rear legs.

    Some people even attempt to pull the dogs apart by their tails.

    But this can cause injury to the dogs if they continue to fight or they may turn around and redirect their aggression on the people attempting to separate them.

    Don’t Reach in and Attempt To Separate The Dogs

    Even though we may instinctively want to do so, it can result in serious injuries.

    Also, of course, no one should put his face near dogs fighting as can occur when attempting to separate them.

    Don’t Use A High-Pitched, Excited Voice

    Using a high-pitched voice or scream will probably over-stimulate a dog, leading to or escalating a fight.

    Don’t Let the Dogs “Work It Out”

    Years ago, people used to believe in letting dogs fight to work it out between them.

    This is dangerous for both dogs and for nearby people. 

    Also, the dogs may never get along after such a fight.

    Final Thoughts

    It’s better to prevent fights than to intervene when one occurs.

    Read each dog’s body language and calmly separate them before things escalate.

    Obedience training and behavioral work are important in maintaining a peaceful household.

    If a fight has occurred, attempt to break it up safely, such as by dousing the dogs with water or making noise.

    I recommend hiring a behavioral expert to work this very serious issue through.

    Have you dealt with your dog’s fighting?

    If so, what did you do?

    Tell us about your experience in the comment section below.

    Save To Pinterest

    Golden, and Black Lab fighting on the grass

    UPDATE: This post was originally published on June 26th, 2021. We periodically update blog posts with new experiences and information to keep them as relevant as possible.

    Top Picks For Our Puppies

    1. BEST DOG CHEW
      We Like: Beef Collagen Sticks – All of our pups love to bite, nip, and chew. We love using Collagen Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors.
    2. BEST PUPPY TOY
      We Like: Calmeroos Puppy Toy w/ Heartbeat and Heat Packs – Perfect for new puppies. Helps ease anxiety in their new home.
    3. BEST DOG TREATS
      We Like: Crazy Dog Train-Me Treats – We use these as our high-value treats for our guide dog puppies.
    4. BEST FRESH DOG FOOD
      We Like: The Farmer’s Dog – A couple months ago we started feeding Raven fresh dog food and she loves it! Get 50% off your first order of The Farmer’s Dog.

    Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist.



    Source link

  • I Found Ultrasound in My (Dog’s) Home

    I Found Ultrasound in My (Dog’s) Home


    A scientific diagram on a black background with time on the x axis and frequency on the y axis. The frequency range extends to 70,000 Hz. Colors indicate the amplitude of the sound, described further in the caption.
    Four speeds, from slow to fast, of an Andis rotary tool for nail grinding

    People in the dog community are worried that sounds we can’t hear might be bothering our dogs. But we can’t check for ultrasound with consumer equipment, even smartphones, because consumer microphones don’t detect sound above 20,000 cycles per second (20,000 Hz). They have no reason to, since we can’t hear in that range. But dogs can. They hear up to 45,000 Hz or higher.

    My Search for Ultrasound

    In 2023, I bought an ultrasound microphone and learned how to interface it with my equipment. In January 2024, I published a post with instructions on how to check your home and environment for ultrasound that your dogs might be able to hear. I found that many ordinary noises had an ultrasound component—things like clickers, keyboard strokes, motors, even barking dogs. But I was looking for duration or intermittent ultrasound that might be generated by electronic devices and didn’t have a component audible to humans.

    I didn’t find any for a while, but I kept searching. You can see my list of items that didn’t emit detectable ultrasound below.

    I recently checked the sound environment again, and found some constant, low-level, electronics-generated ultrasound in dogs’ hearing range that was not accompanied with anything in the human hearing range.

    Three power adapters at the end of cords. Two are much bigger than standard wall plugs
    The culprits: three adapters that put out ultrasound, but no sound audible to humans

    I found what people have been worried about: sound that dogs can hear but we can’t. But the sound was very quiet; it would likely be inaudible unless a dog was very close.

    This ultrasonic noise was emanating from ordinary AC/DC adapters. I have at least 20 of these in my house. I found three that put out a high-frequency noise that was outside of humans’ hearing range. These were the adapters for:

    • A floor lamp with a 24 V DC power supply. It put out a group of frequencies peaking around 21,000, 31,000, and 43,000 Hz.
    • A decorative “Moon” lamp with a 12 V DC power supply. It put out a group of frequencies peaking around 23,000, 28,000, and 33,000 Hz. This adapter even put out a little sound when the lamp was off, but more when it was on.
    • A Fi GPS collar charger that output 5 V DC. The USB adapter put out a band of frequencies peaking around 22,000, 30,000, and 45,000 Hz.

    Note that it was the adapters, not the lights or the charger putting out the sound. I spent a lot of time pointing my microphone at the wrong ends of things!

    The following image shows the ultrasound put out by the adapter of the floor lamp. The x axis is time and the y axis is frequency. You can see blue and green bands in the 20–70 kHz range that correspond to the peaks I listed above during the periods the lamp is on. Also note that there is no change in the sound output lower than 20 kHz when the lamp is on. That means that we humans can’t hear the adapter. (The thin vertical lines were created by the click of the remote for turning the lamp on and off.) For more information on reading this kind of diagram, see the page of examples that accompanies this post.

    A scientific diagram on a black background with time on the x axis and frequency on the y axis. The frequency range extends to 70,000 Hz. The diagram shows time periods where a lamp is on, then off, then on again. The findings are described in the text above the image.

    I found one more item that had a constant, quiet, high-frequency sound in the human hearing range plus sounds in the ultrasound range. These sounds were coming from a battery charger for a Dremel tool (8220). It put out an audible tone at 6,000 Hz, and harmonics (mathematically related higher tones) at 12,000, 18,000, and 24,000 Hz. The charger itself (the part where you insert the battery, in this case not the wall plug) has a built-in AC/DC adapter.

    AC/DC Adapters

    AC/DC adapters function as power supplies for devices that use direct current and lower voltage than what our wall outlets provide. They are the things that often annoy us by taking up more than one space on a power strip. They are often referred to as wall warts because of their bulk. That makes them easy to locate in your home. Two of my culprits were wall warts, and one had a profile almost as small as a normal AC plug.

    What Do They Sound Like and How Audible Are They to Dogs?

    Here are recordings of the sounds, digitally altered to make them audible to humans. There is some unavoidable distortion, but you can get the general idea. To create these sounds, I did the following:

    1. I recorded the sound in WAV format using my Dodotronic 192 kHz ultrasound mic attached to my iPhone 12 Mini using the free Ultrasonic Analyzer app.
    2. I imported the audio file into the free sound software Audacity on my Mac.
    3. I applied a high-pass filter to isolate the ultrasound.
    4. I amplified the signal. The sound was so quiet that I needed to amplify it to be able to see on the screen where the device was on and where it was off so I could edit. See this image.
    5. I changed the pitch to bring it down to human hearing range.
    6. Sometimes I amplified again.
    7. I exported the file as an MP3. The limitations of MP3s don’t affect the sound quality needed for these recordings.

    Floor Lamp

    “Moon” Lamp

    Fi Collar Charger Plug

    A table lamp on a wooden that looks like the moon. The lamp stand is a circular wooden disk.
    The moon lamp’s power adapter puts out extremely quiet ultrasound even when the lamp is off

    All the original sounds have ultrasound components in dogs’ hearing range, between 20,000 and 45,000 Hz. But the adapted versions are amplified in the above recordings; in all cases, the original sounds were much, much quieter.

    For those of us who are concerned about them possibly bothering dogs, there is a blessing. Ultrasound waves are tiny. For instance, the wave that corresponds to the frequency of 25,000 Hz is 14 millimeters, or a little more than half an inch long. For comparison, a 60 Hz wave such as we could hear in a thunderstorm is 5.7 meters or almost 19 feet long. The tiny ultrasound waves don’t travel far over distances because they are reflected and absorbed so easily. It’s a good bet that even dogs don’t hear sounds such as the ones I presented above unless they are close to the source. The sounds are not blasting through whole rooms.

    The two lamps are within about 2 meters of where Lewis sleeps on my bed. While recording, I moved the ultrasound mic from the lamp’s power adapter toward where Lewis sleeps. The mic stopped being able to pick up the sound at about 1 meter. You can see the attenuation of the sound as I moved the mic in this image.

    Items I Tested with Null Results

    Various scholarly and lay articles include lists of household devices that may put out ultrasound. I chose the following devices from those sources, tested, and detected no ultrasound. Other brands or models of these items might yield different results. Note that some of these items have been reported to scare dogs (Grigg et al., 2021). But noises do not have to have an ultrasound component to do so, and we don’t know if the ultrasound component contributed to the fear response.

    • new and old lights: fluorescent, incandescent, LED including ring lights, night lights (which include adapters)
    • screens: desktop computer, tablets, laptops, flat-screen TV
    • motion-sensitive wildlife camera (Meek et al., 2014)
    • laptop fan
    • computer power adapters (I was sure I’d find a culprit here, but no. The Apple devices were all silent.)
    • power strips
    • USB wall plugs (these are also AC/DC adapters). The only noisy one was the Fi collar plug.
    • smart plugs (two brands)
    • refrigerator, microwave, oven
    • smoke alarms on standby (not beeping)
    • remote controls (except for occasionally the click of a key)
    • ultrasonic humidifier
    • space heater
    • various fans

    A Special Note about Smart Plugs

    Two smart plugs sitting on a marble-top counter

    Because of a viral social media post from November 2023, many people are concerned about the possibility of so-called “smart plugs” putting out ultrasound. While it is possible, neither of the two I tested put out any. I deliberately chose cheap ones, because they are less likely to have strong quality control. An engineer pointed out to me that standard QC includes making sure electronics don’t put out noises such as coil whine or capacitor squeal in the human hearing range. But there is far less concern about the ultrasound range, for the same usual reason. We can’t hear it.

    Note that smart plugs are not AC adapters. You might plug an adapter into one, though. Many smart plugs note 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz on the back. Don’t worry; these numbers refer to compatible Wi-Fi types and are not audible sound frequencies to humans or dogs.

    Items That Produce Sound That Includes Ultrasound

    These are not the stealth items that people are worried about, but I was fascinated to find so many noisy items that included ultrasonic frequencies. I created a page of ultrasound examples that includes images of the output of some of these loud items.

    A woman using a rotary hammer drill, drilling straight down into a brick step. The drill is large, with two handles.
    I had on a mask and a face guard, but ear protection would have been a good idea when using a rotary hammer drill as well!
    • computer keyboard strokes
    • clicker
    • ultrasonic squeaker toy
    • regular squeaker toy (you can see an image of the ultrasound components of noise from the preceding four items here)
    • barks and whines of a small dog (Sibiryakova et al., 2021)
    • clicks of various switches (like on remotes to fans or lamps)
    • smoke alarms doing a test beep
    • computer mouse clicks
    • hands clapping
    • jingling keys
    • hand-held hair dryer
    • jingling dog tags
    • upright vacuum
    • small rotary tools (e.g. Dremel)
    • Makita screwdriver and drill
    • Makita rotary hammer drill

    For some of these items, the ultrasound component was among the loudest of the frequency bands. Because dogs’ hearing is more sensitive in the upper frequencies than ours, if a dog were close to such an item, they would likely hear a louder sound than we do. Most apps that measure volume, such as SPL meters for smartphones, don’t include the ultrasound range.

    People frequently ask me about using ear-muff type ear protection for dogs who are fearful of thunder or fireworks. I always explain that such gear can’t protect against the huge sound waves generated by those low-frequency sounds. But these ear protectors can usually prevent the transmission of smaller sound waves very well. If your dog has been conditioned to wear ear gear, it would be a kindness to have them wear it as much as possible for grooming. The hair dryer and rotary tools I checked were loud in the ultrasound range, on top of being loud in high frequencies humans and dogs can both hear. Clippers may also put out ultrasound, but I didn’t have any to test.

    “Ultrasound” Is an Arbitrary Definition

    It’s crucial to understand that sound doesn’t magically change when the frequency goes over 20,000 Hz. That boundary of 20,000 Hz for ultrasound is derived from “sound that is too high for humans to hear.” It’s a handy distinction, but it’s based on biology, not physics. It’s anthropocentric. Ultrasound is just sound with a higher frequency. I always make the point in my sound webinars that we shouldn’t assume that a sound is aversive to dogs if it is in the ultrasound range, even though there are some oddball online articles that claim this is so. Keep in mind that dogs’ hearing evolved to function in that range. Many small animals that are prey to canids vocalize in that range. It’s no coincidence that domestic cats can hear in that range and even higher, too.

    Anything happening above 20,000 Hz is a mystery to us. But it’s not to dogs; it’s just part of their world. It is quite possible that a constant noise in the ultrasound range could bother some dogs. It’s also likely that many dogs habituate to it, just as many dogs (and many humans) stop noticing other ongoing stimuli. For instance, the furnace is on in my house as I write this. There is the sound of the fan blowing air through the ductwork and perhaps the sound of the furnace itself coming through the registers. But I don’t “hear” these long duration sounds unless I turn my attention to them. Likewise, most of us who live in cities don’t notice the common 60-Hz hum of transformers. But people who live in rural areas may notice it when they come to town. And some people are immediately bothered by some ongoing sounds or never habituate.

    I have an example in another post of dogs hanging around during a very obnoxious ongoing sound, even deliberately basking in the sun close to the sound source. This example “proves” nothing about how all dogs respond to sounds. However, it provides evidence that we may not be able to predict their response.

    Limitations of My Testing

    In the interest of transparency, I have created a separate page that delineates aspects of my home setup that affect the precision and accuracy of my data, in this and other posts that present results. I do not have controlled laboratory conditions. But I include in the list how the limitations were mitigated and why I can be confident in the results I have presented here.

    Conclusion

    Two major takeaways:

    • The “stealth” sounds I found are likely inaudible unless a dog approaches close. Here is a photo of sound-reactive Lewis standing right next to the adapter for the floor lamp while he determines whether I have “webinar or Zoom treats” in a drawer.
    • The ultrasound generated by motors can be loud. Properly conditioned hearing protection would be beneficial for dogs undergoing grooming procedures where a hair dryer or rotary tool is used.

    Others have found more stealth ultrasound than I have, as described in this dramatically-titled CNET article. However, the author doesn’t discuss the rapid attenuation over distance of ultrasound, nor do they give us a good sense of how loud the sounds are.

    I will keep performing periodic sweeps for ultrasound culprits in my area and report any findings.

    Supplemental Materials

    There are two pages with information relevant to this post:

    Copyright 2025 Eileen Anderson

    References

    Grigg, E. K., Chou, J., Parker, E., Gatesy-Davis, A., Clarkson, S. T., & Hart, L. A. (2021). Stress-related behaviors in companion dogs exposed to common household noises, and owners’ interpretations of their dogs’ behaviors. Frontiers in veterinary science, 8, 760845.

    Meek, P. D., Ballard, G. A., Fleming, P. J., Schaefer, M., Williams, W., & Falzon, G. (2014). Camera traps can be heard and seen by animals. PloS one, 9(10), e110832.

    Sibiryakova, O. V., Volodin, I. A., & Volodina, E. V. (2021). Polyphony of domestic dog whines and vocal cues to body size. Current Zoology, 67(2), 165-176.



    Source link