نویسنده: Ali Bina

  • Homeward Pet | Make Your Pet a Star!

    Homeward Pet | Make Your Pet a Star!


    Make Your Pet a Star!

     

    Make Your Pet a Billboard Star and help Homeward Pet get more visibility!

    Billboard model, Luna, loved her time in the spotlight and is inviting you to consider making your own pet our next billboard star!

    For a donation of just $2500, we will coordinate a professional photoshoot for your pet and schedule them for placement on a local billboard for a month during the coming year – maybe to celebrate their birthday/adoption month/your birthday/other special occasion.

    Billboard placement gifts Homeward Pet with new eyes to adopt the animals in our shelter, new hands to volunteer to provide love and care, new hearts to expand our own out into the community.

    Contact to begin the process!

    Thank you to Pup Shoot Dog Photography for the photoshoot that made Luna (pictured here) a star.

    Past Billboards



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  • Velcro Dog Breeds – Meet 9 Super Clingy Dog Breeds

    Velcro Dog Breeds – Meet 9 Super Clingy Dog Breeds


    This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

    Have you ever tried to close the door to the bathroom, only to realize your dog followed you and wants to come in?

    To be honest, the first time my dog tried to do this, I thought that he was the clingiest dog in the world.

    Velcro Dog Breeds - Meet 9 Clingy Dog Breeds - Golden Retriever puppy in a down stay on a blue, red, and green baby slide.

    Wanting to find the cause of my dog’s needy behavior, I stumbled upon the term Velcro Dog Breeds.

    Velcro Dog Breeds

    Velcronoun – trademark a fastening consisting of two strips of nylon fabric, one having tiny hooked threads and the other a coarse surface, that form a strong bond when pressed together

    Dognoun – a domesticated canid, Canis familiaris, bred in many varieties.

    Velcro Dog is used to describe dogs who like to follow their owners everywhere and are always clinging close by. And while this dependency is bred into many breeds, dogs can become suddenly clingy for a number of different reasons. 

    Clingy dogs take love and devotion to a whole other level, and it’s really nice to have a dog shadow your every move.

    However, if your pooch has become clingy all of a sudden, you should talk with your vet and schedule a checkup to be on the safe side.

    Some dogs become overly attached to their owners as they get older and start to have trouble seeing and hearing.

    Below, you will find a list of super clingy dog breeds that will follow and enjoy spending time with you all day every day!

    We have two clingy dogs at home. I’m talking about you, Elsa and Raven!

    Elsa is a 3-year-old black Labrador Retriever and I sometimes think she wants to be attached to me because she nuzzles so closely.

    Raven is a 9-year-old Golden Retriever. She’s a typical Golden and if her head is not on your lap then it’s on my wife’s lap or she’s snuggling with my kids.

    Goldens and Labs (Honorable Mention) are definitely velcro breeds but there are others that will cling to you.

    So without further adieu…

    9 Dog Breeds That Are Clingy

    Velcro Dog Breeds - Golden puppy lying down on doggy daddy
    Cuddling with Charlie a Golden Retriever puppy.

    If you are looking for a dog that will follow you around and never leave your side, you came to the right place! 

    However, before you decide to bring an extra clingy dog into your home, ask yourself whether you are comfortable having a shadow 24/7.

    If you don’t mind relinquishing your privacy for the foreseeable future, consider any one of the following super clingy velcro dog breeds!

    1. Vizsla 

    There is no better way of kick-starting the list of the clingiest dog breeds than with the Vizsla dog breed.

    Nicknamed the “Velcro Vizsla,” this athletic medium-sized dog breed forms extremely strong bonds with its owners. The Vizsla’s Velcro dog nature has a lot to do with the breed’s hunting origins.

    Cadaver Dog - Vizsla sitting next his owner training to be a cadaver dog.
    This Vizsla sticks next to his owner. He was training to be a cadaver dog.

    Developed in Hungary as a pointer and retriever, this breed had to stay close to the hunter, never straying too far from its handler.

    The years of working closely with people are evident in the breed today. Most Vizslas are always close to their owners, never leaving their sight and acting like shadows. 

    Despite their clingy nature, Vizslas are very active and hardworking dogs that need regular exercise to stay in good shape.

    When properly exercised and trained from an early age, the Vizsla will make an affectionate, gentle, and obedient companion.

    Please note, when left to its own devices, your Vizsla will easily become bored and destructive and may even become a barker. 

    If you look into dog breeds that never leave your side, you will hardly find a better candidate than a Vizsla!

    This breed will follow you everywhere, bathroom included, and will cling to your side at all hours of the day and night.

    On the other hand, if having a dog hot on your heels isn’t your cup of tea, choose another dog breed.

    2. French Bulldog

    Created in England as a companion dog, the French bulldog is a very clingy breed that craves a lot of human affection and attention.

    The bat-eared, small, but powerfully built Frenchie is an excellent choice for first-time owners and adapts well to apartment living. 

    Like all other clingy dog breeds, the French bulldog seeks constant companionship and thrives when provided with affection.

    When not provided with the attention it needs, your Frenchie will outright demand it! Bear in mind, that the French bulldog might be small but has a larger-than-life personality and a stubborn streak.

    Frenchies don’t like to be left alone for long periods of time and some even develop separation anxiety.

    If you have long working hours and can’t interact with your Frenchie much, consider getting another dog breed.

    On the other hand, if you have enough time and are looking for an affectionate lap dog, the Frenchie is a great choice. 

    3. Pug

    Originally bred to be a lap dog, the pug craves human companionship and is a true velcro dog.

    Sturdy, compact, and small, pugs have larger-than-life personalities and aren’t afraid to show their clownish nature just to get attention.

    Affectionate and friendly, this breed adapts well to apartment living, although they don’t appreciate being left at home alone.

    This breed has a happy-go-lucky approach to life and makes a great addition to families with children, singles, or seniors when provided with lots of attention.

    However, when left to their own devices, or ignored, pugs can become very unhappy. Like a true companion dog, your pug will crave your affection and cling to your lap as if his life depended on it.

    And while they are content spending their days being petted and adored, pugs are also comical dogs that enjoy silly antics.

    Bear in mind, that pugs are very smart, but they can also be very stubborn, which can make housetraining challenging.

    However, if you have time to spend time and train your dog every day from an early age, the pug will be an ideal companion.

    4. Chihuahua

    Chihuahua, the smallest dog breed in the world, is also one of the clingiest Velcro dog breeds.

    Fun-loving, agile, and smart, the chihuahua likes nothing more than to be close to its people and the sole focus of their attention. Due to their clannish nature, chihuahuas don’t get along very well with other breeds and prefer to be the only pet.

    This tiny dog will shadow your every move and will eagerly jump in a carrier and behave just to stay close by wherever you are.

    Although they demand attention from anyone they meet, chihuahuas form strong bonds with a single person. If by any chance you become this special someone, forget about looking at any other dog again!

    Chihuahuas indeed demand a lot of attention, but they also worship their owners and make loyal companions and great watchdogs.

    My old roommate’s girlfriend had a Chihuahua. Unfortunately, he wasn’t the friendliest of dogs. However, not all Chi’s are like this. If you do get a chihuahua, start training and socialization early on to help your puppy grow into a well-behaved and obedient dog.

    5. German Shepherd Dog

    The German shepherd dog is one of the most popular dog breeds in the world, and probably the one dog breed everyone recognizes on the spot.

    Developed in Germany for herding sheep, the German shepherd is a working dog breed that is used to perform a wide range of tasks.

    German Shepherd Mix Puppy Pile
    A German Shepherd Mix Puppy Pile!

    Highly intelligent, obedient, and trainable, German shepherds are valuable members of police and military units, but they are also amazing companions.

    While it’s hard to imagine that such a big dog can be clingy, German shepherds are extremely loyal and will always be by your side. 

    Smart and active, your German shepherd will need daily exercise to stay in good shape and will excel at agility courses.

    And while they are completely devoted to their families, German shepherd dogs are aloof toward strangers! To raise a friendly and well-mannered dog, start training and socializing your GSD puppy from an early age. 

    Please note, that this breed needs companionship and contact with its owner and can easily develop separation anxiety when left alone a lot.

    An anxious German shepherd will resort to barking, digging, chewing, and other forms of destructive behavior to ease their worry. So, if you have long working hours or travel a lot, you should consider a less clingy dog breed. 

    6. Italian Greyhound

    The Italian greyhound is a slender, agile, and elegant-looking dog bred to hunt by sight and chase small game.

    And while they were used for hunting, Italian greyhounds were prized companion dogs due to their gentle and highly affectionate nature. Kind and loving, this breed is an amazing family companion that seeks attention and affection.

    The Italian greyhound loves to spend time with its human family and will be the happiest spending all day snuggling with you on the sofa.

    Sensitive and affectionate, your Italian greyhound will shadow your every move and won’t mind following you to the bathroom or waiting until you finish showering. 

    While Italian greyhounds are playful, curious, and affectionate with their owners, they are shy and reserved towards strangers. However, when properly socialized from an early age, your dog will be willing to be petted or held by visitors. 

    Remember that although highly intelligent, this breed has a short attention span.

    This makes training difficult and you will have to find a high reward treat that will motivate your pooch to train. Furthermore, even when motivated, Italian greyhounds can be extremely difficult to house-train. 

    If you are looking into clingy dog breeds, the Italian Greyhound is an excellent choice! They need a lot of love and affection and will follow you all day long and seek cuddles.

    However, if you value your privacy and your “me time,” this breed isn’t the right dog for you.

    7. Golden Retriever

    The Golden retriever is one of the most popular dog breeds and an amazing family dog. Originally bred to be a gun dog, the golden retriever is still a capable working breed that excels at many tasks.

    Smart, gentle, and easy to train, this breed can adapt to any home and makes a great companion to people of all ages. 

    Golden Retriever Christmas Puppy - presents stockings and other Christmas decor with english cream golden
    English Cream Golden Retriever puppy for Christmas!

    While they might not seem clingy, goldens were bred to work with people and have a strong urge to stay close to their owners at all times.

    They seek constant companionship and should live indoors with their human family. Golden retrievers get along with everyone, including children and other pets, and like to be involved in all family activities.  

    Since they are hard-wired to please, you won’t have any trouble training and socializing your golden from a young age.

    Unlike other Velcro dog breeds, your golden might not follow your every move, but he will snuggle with you on the sofa and watch TV. 

    8. Doberman Pinscher

    At first glance, the Doberman Pinscher looks intimidating, but underneath all that muscle hides a cuddly, affectionate, and loving dog.

    Bred as guard dogs, Doberman Pinchers are highly energetic and intelligent dogs. They are used by the military and police but are also great family companions and guard dogs.

    While they may look scary and vicious to those who don’t know them, Dobermans have a sweet personality and like to spend time with their family.

    Similar to a chihuahua, Dobermans form strong bonds with a single family member. And while they like to interact with the whole family, they will seek their special human above everyone else. 

    Since they thrive on praise and human companionship, Dobermans like to be involved in all family activities and should live indoors.

    Fun-loving, protective, and affectionate, Dobermans won’t hesitate to defend their people. A properly trained and socialized Doberman Pinscher isn’t aggressive or vicious without reason. 

    9. Shetland Sheepdog

    Often known as Sheltie, the Shetland sheepdog was originally used as a herding dog. Nowadays, Shelties are popular family companions due to their affectionate, gentle, and loyal nature.

    Although they aren’t lap dogs, Shelties like to spend time with their people and will do anything to get your attention. 

    Highly intelligent and trainable, this breed will pick on new tricks with ease and gladly perform just to spend more time interacting with you. Like another famous herder the Border collie, the Sheltie is naturally reserved towards strangers.

    However, with early socialization, your dog will learn to be more trusting of visitors and show how affectionate and clingy they can really be. 

    FAQs About Velcro Dog

    What Is A Velcro Dog?

    A Velcro dog is a dog that wants to be close to its owner at all times. Often described as being super clingy, Velcro dogs like to follow their owners’ every move and are always close by.

    If your dog is following your every move and is always hot on your heels, he is probably a Velcro dog.

    While Velcro dogs might seem very needy, they just have a strong urge to be close to their owner and feel more comfortable that way.

    Furthermore, certain breeds are predisposed to become clingy since they were bred to work closely with people. Ultimately, all dogs that were bred for companionship, work, or hunting have the potential to become Velcro dogs. 

    How Do I Stop My Dog From Becoming A Velcro Dog?

    Owning a Velcro dog is not a big problem for the most part. However, there might be times when you would like to maintain some distance and have privacy.

    The right training techniques can help your dog to be more independent and curb their neediness. 

    Teaching your dog the stay command can be of great help if you want to go to the bathroom alone for a change.

    Instead of letting your dog follow you, use the stay command to keep them at a distance. Start with short distances and gradually move further away until your dog learns how to stay put even when you are out of their sight. 

    Are Poodles Velcro Dogs?

    The poodle is a very affectionate and faithful companion dog that forms strong bonds with its owners.

    Poodles often show this affection by staying close to their owner or never leaving their side, so it’s safe to say they are Velcro dogs. However, while very affectionate, some poodles become very clingy as they get older.

    It’s completely normal for older poodles to become more dependent on their owners, since they may experience hearing loss and vision problems.

    If this is the case, don’t be annoyed by your dog’s clingy behavior. Instead, try to make them feel comfortable and reassure them that you are there by their side.   

    Why Does My Dog Never Leave My Side?

    There are several reasons why your dog follows you everywhere and never leaves your side.

    Working breeds were bred for centuries to be close by and work with people, so they are more likely to stay by your side. On the other hand, many dogs like to have company and prefer to be close to their people at all times. 

    What Does It Mean When A Dog Puts His Paw On You?

    Your dog pawing at you is a sign that they want to communicate something and can be interpreted in several ways.

    In most cases, dogs will paw at their owners as a way of showing love and affection. However, this act can also be a sign that your dog is feeling insecure and wants your attention. 

    Conclusion

    Although Velcro dog breeds come in all shapes and sizes, they have one thing in common – they will follow your every move!

    If you don’t mind having a canine shadow and don’t need privacy to go to the bathroom, a Velcro dog can be an ideal companion. Here are some extra clingy dog breeds:

    In the end, while Velcro dogs may seem overly needy, there’s nothing wrong with owning a dog who wants to spend every second by your side.

    Do you have a Velcro dog? If so, what breed of dog do you own?

    Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below.

    Related Articles:

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    Meet 9 Clingy Dog Breeds - Velcro Dog Breeds - Golden Retriever puppy on blue, red, and green baby slide.

    UPDATE: This post was originally published on December 23rd, 2022. We periodically update blog posts with new experiences and information to keep them as relevant as possible.

    Top Picks For Our Puppies

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      We Like: Beef Collagen Sticks – All of our pups love to bite, nip, and chew. We love using Collagen Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors.
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      We Like: Crazy Dog Train-Me Treats – We use these as our high-value treats for our guide dog puppies.
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      We Like: The Farmer’s Dog – A couple months ago we started feeding Raven fresh dog food and she loves it! Get 50% off your first order of The Farmer’s Dog.

    Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist.



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  • Goodnewsforpets.com Celebrates 25 Years of Love

    Goodnewsforpets.com Celebrates 25 Years of Love


    Lea-Ann Germinder at WVC 2018, 18 years after the launch of Goodnewsforpets.com at the Conference

    Today is not just any day—it’s Love Your Pet Day, dedicated to cherishing our furry friends. But for me, it’s even more special. Today marks the official 25th Anniversary of Goodnewsforpets.com. This milestone gives me great “paws” but also fills me with immense pride and gratitude and the desire to spread love to all who have supported this journey.

    The official launch date of Goodnewsforpets.com was February 20, 2000, at Viticus Group’s Western Veterinary Conference (WVC) in Las Vegas, but this was an entrepreneurial adventure from the start. In true entrepreneurial form, the concept for Goodnewsforpets as a portal site for pet news was developed after many discussions with technical experts. Concepts were scratched out on notepads during my many airplane travels when internet access on the plane was also a faraway reality.  There were also many sleepless nights well before that inaugural launch day.

    Back then, the world was buzzing about the rise of the internet, much like today’s conversations surrounding AI. Websites were the news, and social media platforms were still a few years away. The launch of Goodnewsforpets.com at WVC was a leap into the future—a time of excitement and innovation, but I had no idea what was to come.

    Lea-Ann and Amy

    Amy Shojai and Lea-Ann Germinder in 2020, 20 years after the launch of Goodnewsforpets.com

    When we first started, Goodnewsforpets.com was fortunate to have the support of the Cat Writers’ Association of America (CWA) as our first media organization sponsor, thanks to Amy Shojai’s vision. Soon after, the Dog Writers Association of America (DWAA), with the legendary Mordecai Siegal at the helm, joined us after I met him in the Westminster Kennel Club press room at Madison Square Garden.

    Steve Dale had already signed on as our very first featured columnist (I had told him about the idea, and he quickly and gratefully for us said – I’m in), and over the years, we had the privilege of working with Ranny Green, Mordecai Siegal, and Julie Lux as editor, and so many CWA leaders like Deb Barnes. Also, there are so many DWAA leaders, including past president Jen Reeder, who was installed into the DWAA Hall of Fame and who I recently interviewed. I have warm memories of these associations and the many companies and associations we have been proud to work with for sponsored content and pro bono educational purposes.

    Goodnewsforpets Logo 2021

    My focus the last few years has been on responsible AI research, and I am now entering a new chapter of focusing some of this research on veterinary medicine, which I hope will include sharing those insights with you. Through the years, we’ve covered countless stories, attended veterinary conferences, and published thousands of articles and press releases. I hope I can also bring some of those highlights to your attention in the coming months.

    I am grateful that Goodnewsforpets.com remains a trusted resource for pet owners and the veterinary community.

    So, as we kick off our 25th Anniversary Year, I invite you to celebrate with us! Whether you’ve been with us since the beginning or just discovered us, thank you for being part of this journey. Here’s to celebrating our 25th anniversary year. It feels pretty darn good.

    Spreading the love, another look at my recent guest interview with Jen Reeder:

    A Big Round of Paws for Super Star Writer Jen Reeder, 2025 DWAA Hall of Fame Inductee



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  • Time For Puppy Preschool Part 5: Preparing For Dog Graduation


    The basis of training any animal is winning its trust, confidence and respect. True training cannot begin until the animal has accepted you as its leader, respects you and entrusted you with his or her confidence.

     

    The mistake many puppy owners make is mistaking love and affection for respect and confidence. While it is certainly important to love your new puppy, it is also very important that the puppy respect you and see you as his leader. Dogs are naturally pack animals, and every dog looks to the lead dog for advice and direction. Making you the pack leader is vital to the success of training any dog. 

     

    Failure to gain the respect of the dog can create a dog that is disobedient, out of control and even dangerous. Problem dogs are dangerous, whether they are created through bad breeding, owner ignorance or improper training. It is important to train the dog right from the start, since retraining a problem dog is much more difficult than training a puppy right the first time.

    If you are reading this series of entries for the first time, you might want to start at the beginning: Time for puppy preschool: Get the basics for positive dog training

     

     

    Advanced Dog Training Exercises

    Coming when called is a vital skill that every dog must learn, both for its own safety and that of those around it. A disobedient dog that refuses to come when called could easily be hit by a car, get into a fight with another dog, or suffer a variety of other bad experiences. A well trained dog that comes when called can safely be taken out to play in the local park, at the beach, on the hiking trail, or anywhere else the owner and dog may wish to go.

     

    Basic training to come when called is relatively easy and straightforward, and involves providing praise, treats and other perks when the dog does as his owner wants. After these basic “come when called” training exercises are mastered, there are a number of fun exercises that can be introduced to challenge the dog and pique its interest.

     

    Making training into a fun game is one of the best ways to motivate dogs and handlers alike. It is easy for training sessions to become routine and boring, and it is important to keep them from degenerating into this state.

     

    Before beginning any food based training exercise, it is important to make sure that the dog is properly motivated and ready to respond to treat based training. Testing the dog is simply a matter of taking a piece of his regular food and waving it in front of the dog’s nose. If the dog shows great enthusiasm for the food, it is ready to start the training. If not, it is best to wait until the dog is in a more receptive mood.

     

    The treats that work best for treat based training games like hide and seek are small pieces of chicken, cheese or liver. In other words, something your dog will love. It is best to use very small pieces to avoid over-feeding the dog during the training sessions.

     

    One great game for you and another family member or friend to play with your dog is simply back and forth recall. This is a great exercise for teaching your dog to come whenever it is called by a member of the family. Dogs often learn to only respond to one person, and this can be a problem when other people are watching the dog. That is one reason why professional dog trainers always insist on working with the owner as well as the dog. A well trained dog must learn to respond to whoever is in charge, not just the owner or usual handler.

     

    In the back and forth recall game, two or more people stand approximately ten yards apart, in a safe place like a fenced in yard. One person calls the dog and asks him to sit and wait until another person asks the dog to come. When the dog responds to the command to come, it is rewarded with a treat. Most dogs respond wonderfully to this exercise and love playing this game. When playing the back and forth recall game, it is important that only the person who called the dog be allowed to give the dog a treat.

     

    After the dog has mastered the back and forth recall game, the humans in the game can start to spread further out, thus turning the back and forth recall game into a fun game of hide and seek. The hide and seek game starts with two or more people in the center room of the house. Every time they call the dog to come, they spread out further away from where they started. As the game continues, one person will be at one end of the house, while another may be at the opposite end. What makes the hide and seek game so much fun for the dog is that he must seek out the person to get the treat, instead of simply running up to a person in plain sight. This type of seeking behavior appeals to many of the dog’s natural instincts. After all, dogs are naturally hunting animals, and seeking out food is second nature to them.

     

    Keeping Your Dog Motivated

    Keep the attention of a dog while training is not always easy. Dogs can be easily distracted, and it is important to not allow the training sessions to be sabotaged by boredom. Making training fun for the dog and the human alike is vital to creating a happy, well-adjusted and well trained dog.

     

    Providing random positive stimuli during the day is a great way to keep the interest of the dog. Doing things the dog enjoys, like walking in the park, riding in the car, and playing with other dogs, is a great way to keep the dog’s attention and reward him for small successes.

     

    For instance, in order to reward the dog for coming to you, for instance, ask the dog to come to you, without giving any clues about a walk, a car ride, or other treats. After the dog has come to you and obediently sat down, attach the leash and start the reward. This can be either the aforementioned walk in the park, ride in the car, or anything else the dog likes to do.

     

    Providing some kind of reward, whether a treat, a special outing or just a scratch behind the ears during each time the dog does something you want is a great way to keep your dog motivated. If the dog knows something great is going to happen every time he obeys your command, he will be motivated to please you every time.

     

    When training any dog, it is important to not let distractions disrupt the training. The dog must be taught to ignore distractions, such as other people, other dogs, other animals and loud noises, and focus on what is being taught. These types of distractions can even be used as rewards when training the dog to come when called.

     

    For instance, if your dog enjoys playing with other dogs whether in a local dog park or with the neighbor’s dogs, let him play freely with those other dogs. Then go into the park or yard and call your dog. When he comes to you, provide lots of praise, treats and other rewards, then immediately allow the dog to go back to playing with his friends. Repeat this several times and praise the dog each time he comes to you. The dog will quickly learn that coming to you means good things (treats and praise) and not bad ones (being taken away from the park).

     

    If the dog does not master this particular type of training right away, try not to get discouraged. So called distraction training is one of the most difficult things to teach. Dogs are naturally social animals, and breaking away from the pack is one of the most difficult things you can ask your dog to do. Most dogs will be understandably reluctant to leave their canine companions, but it is important to persist.

     

    Training the dog to come to you may require some creativity on your part at first. For instance, waving a favorite toy, or a lure, is a great way to get your dog’s attention and put the focus back on you. If your dog has been clicker trained, a quick click can be a good motivator as well.

     

    Once the dog begins to get the hang of coming when called, you can begin to reduce and eliminate the visual cues and focus on getting the dog to respond to your voice alone. It is important that the dog respond to voice commands alone, since you will not always have the availability of a toy or other lure.

     

    If you want to learn the basics of dog training, say no more, here you go: Puppy 101: A beautiful journey through dog training

     

     

    Dealing With Separation Anxiety

    Separation anxiety, also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior, is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training. Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destroying the owner’s property, excessive barking, self-destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation.

     

    Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, chew and scratch at the door the entire time their family members are away. Well-meaning owners often unwittingly encourage this misbehavior by rushing home to reassure the dog, but it is important for the well-being of both dog and owner that the dog learns to deal with extended periods of separation.

     

    How the owner leaves the house can often contribute to separation anxiety issues. A long and drawn out period of farewell can make matters worse by making the dog feel even more isolated when the owner finally leaves. These long types of farewells can get the dog excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off. These excited, isolated dogs often work off their excess energy in the most destructive of ways, such as chewing up a favorite rug or piece of furniture.

     

    Excess energy is often mistaken for separation anxiety, since results are often the same. If you think that excess amounts of energy may be the problem, try giving your dog more exercise to see if that eliminates the problem.

     

    If separation anxiety is truly the problem, it is important to address the root causes of that anxiety. In order to prevent separation anxiety from occurring, it is important for the dog to feel happy, safe, secure and comfortable while the owner is away for the day. It is important, for instance, to give the dog plenty of things to keep it busy while you are away. This means providing it with lots of toys, such as balls or chew toys. A pet companion is often effective at relieving separation anxiety as well. Giving the dog a playmate, such as another dog or a cat, is a great way for busy pet parents and pets alike to cope with the stress of being left alone.

     

    Setting aside scheduled play times, during which the pet is given your undivided attention, is another great way to alleviate boredom and separation anxiety. Playing with the dog, and providing it with sufficient attention and exercise is a proven way to avoid a stressed and anxious dog. A happy dog that has been well exercised and well-conditioned will generally sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner. It is important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house each day. It is important to give the dog a few minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave.

     

    For dogs that are already experiencing separation anxiety and associated misbehaviors, it is important to get them accustomed to your leaving gradually. Be sure to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, several times during the day. Doing so will get your dog accustomed to your departures and help them realize that you are not leaving them forever; Dogs that have been previously lost, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, often have the worst problems with separation anxiety. Part of treating this problem is teaching the dog that you’re leaving is not permanent.

     

     

    Preventing Unwanted Urination

    Dogs often urinate when they become overly excited, and dogs that are otherwise perfectly housebroken sometimes show their excitement by dribbling urine when greeting you excitedly. It is normal for some dogs to urinate when they get excited, and this can be a particular problem for many older dogs.

     

    A lot of excitement induced urination occurs in young puppies, and it is caused by a lack of bladder control. The puppy may not even know he is urinating, and punishment will simply confuse him. Becoming angry with the puppy will quickly cause excitement urination to morph into submissive urination, thus compounding the problem. As the puppy gets older and develops better bladder control, this type of excitement urination should disappear.

     

    The best cure for excitement urination is prevention. Preventing your dog from becoming over excited is the best way to control this problem behavior. If your dog is excited by a particular stimulus or situation, it is important to repeatedly expose him to that situation until it no longer causes excessive excitement.

     

    Submissive urination is a natural part of pack behavior among animals like dogs and wolves. The submissive member of the pack shows his or her submissiveness by lowering itself and urinating. Since dogs are pack animals, they may show their submissiveness to their owner, who they regard as the pack leader, by exhibiting this submissive urination.

     

    Dogs who exhibit submissive urination are usually showing their insecurity. Previously abused dogs often exhibit submissive urination. These dogs need to be shown that there are more appropriate ways to express their submissive status, such as shaking hands or licking the owner’s hand.

     

    The best way to deal with submissive urination problems is often to ignore the urination. Trying to reassure the dog can give the mistaken impression that you approve of the behavior, while scolding the dog can make the submissive urination worse.

     

    Correcting problems with submissive urination should be directed at building the dog’s confidence and teaching him other ways to show his respect. Teaching the dog to lift his paw, sit on command, or similar obedience commands, is a great way to direct the dog’s respect in a more appropriate direction.

     

    Problems with urination are not always easy to deal with, but it is important to be consistent, and to always reward acceptable behavior on the part of the dog. When urination problems do occur, it is always a good idea to first rule out any medical conditions that could be causing those problems. Medical issues like bladder infections can be the root cause of problems with unwanted urination.

     

    After any medical problems have been ruled out, it is important to determine what is causing the problem, and treat it appropriately. While it can be tempting to punish the dog for inappropriate elimination, doing so will only confuse and further intimidate him.

     

    Are you still deciding whether to adopt a new puppy or not? You might this entry interesting: Welcome Home Buddy: Tips For Adopting A New Puppy Or Dog

     

     

    How To Train Your Dog Not To Chase

    Dogs by nature are predatory animals, and all predatory animals share the motivation to chase fleeing objects. While this may be a natural instinct, it is not appropriate when those fleeing objects are joggers, bicyclists or the mailman.

     

    Training the dog not to chase people and bicycles is an important thing to do, and it is best to start that training as early as possible. Starting when the dog is still small and non-threatening is important, particularly with breeds that grow very large, or with breeds that have a reputation for being very aggressive. Many people respond to being chased by a dog, especially a large dog, with understandable fear, and it is best for yourself and your dog that he be trained not to chase before he reaches a threatening size.

     

    Some dogs are easier to train away from chasing than others. Breeds that have been used for hunting or herding often retain much more of their chasing instincts than other types of dogs, for instance.

     

    No matter what breed of dog you are working with, however, it is important to not allow him off the leash until his chasing behavior has been curbed. Allowing an untrained dog off the leash is dangerous, irresponsible and illegal.

     

    Before you expose your dog to a situation where he will want to chase someone or something, be sure to train him in a safe, controlled area like a fenced yard. It is important for the dog to be able to focus and concentrate on you, and for him to understand what behavior you want. The dog must be given the opportunity to repeatedly perform the behavior you want while in this controlled setting.

     

    The training session should be started indoors in the dog’s home. The dog should be put on a leash at one end of a hallway or room, and the owner should stand at the other end. The owner then waves a tennis ball in front of the dog but does not allow him to touch it. After that, the tennis ball is rolled to the other end of the hallway or the room, and the command “Off” is used to tell the dog not to chase the ball. If the dog starts out after the ball, use the command “Off” once again and give a firm tug on the leash.

     

    When doing this type of training, it is vital that the dog not be allowed to touch the ball. If he actually reaches the ball, he may think that “Off” means to get the ball. This exercise should be repeated several times, until the dog has learned the meaning of the “Off” command. When the dog responds correctly by not chasing the ball, he should be rewarded with a special treat.

     

    After the dog seems to understand his new game, move to another room and try the same thing. Repeat the exercise in several rooms of the house, in the garage, etc. After the dog has seemingly mastered the game and learned the meaning of the “Off” command, you can work with him without the leash, but still only in a safe area like your own home or a fenced in yard. It may take some time for the dog to fully master control of his chasing instinct, and it is important not to rush the process, or to leave the dog off leash until you are sure he is fully trained.

     

    To test the training in the real world, enlist the assistance of a friend to pose as a jogger. It is important that the dog does not see and recognize this person; he has to assume that it is a stranger in order for the test to be valid. Stand with the dog on his leash and have your friend jog by a couple of times while you do the “Off” exercise. If the dog does as he is asked, be sure to provide lots of praise and treats. If he starts after the “jogger”, give a firm reminder by tugging on the leash.

     

     

    Training Your Dog Not To Fear Loud Noises

    Loud noises, such as fireworks, thunder and traffic, are one of the most frequently cited fears given by dog owners. It is natural for some dogs to be fearful of loud noises, but some dogs are so traumatized by thunder, fireworks and other loud noises that they are completely unable to function.

     

    Dogs that display excessive fears or phobias such as these can be a danger to themselves and those around them. Dogs may manifest their fear in self-destructive ways, like slinking under the couch or the bed and getting stuck, for instance. They may also react in ways that are destructive to the home, such as urinating or defecating on the carpet, chewing up favorite items, or barking incessantly. These reactions are often worse when the owner is not at home.

     

    One thing that is hard for many dog owners to understand is that soothing or stroking a dog that is displaying fear is exactly the wrong thing to do. While it is natural to try to calm a fearful dog, to the dog you are rewarding it for being afraid. The dog likes the sound of your voice, likes your petting, and concludes that he has done the right thing by acting afraid. This only makes a bad situation worse.

     

    The best strategy when the dog displays fear when there is a thunderstorm or a fireworks display is to simply ignore the dog. It is of course important to watch the dog to make sure he does not hurt himself, but otherwise just ignore him and let him work through the fear on his own. When you go away, be sure to make sure there is nothing the dog can get stuck under, since fireworks or a thunderstorm can pop up at any time.

     

    A dog that is severely afraid of thunderstorms and other loud noises may need to be confined to a single room, or even a crate, for a period of time. After the dog feels safe in his “den”, he may be able to deal with his fears a little better. It can be quite a struggle to teach a dog not to be afraid of thunderstorms, firecrackers and other such noises, but it is important that the dog at least be able to control his fears without being destructive to himself or his environment.

     

    Much as magicians use sleight of hand to hide their tricks, so dog owners practice the art of distraction to take their dog’s mind off of their fear. For instance, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms and you know one is on the way, gather some of your dog’s favorite toys and get ready for the misdirection.

     

    Of course, your dog will probably know the thunderstorm is on the way before you do. When you see your dog start to display fear, take a few of his favorite toys and try to get him to play. Very fearful dogs may be reluctant to play, but it is important to try nevertheless. Often a few treats can be a good distraction as well. Try buying one of those balls that you can fill with treats or biscuits, and encourage your dog to chase it.

     

    Try playing with your dog every time a thunderstorm is in the forecast. This can start to implant good memories, and these can sometimes replace the fear memories that caused the dog to be afraid of thunderstorms in the first place.

     

    Desensitization is a highly effective way to deal with phobias and fears in humans, and it can be very effective for dogs and other animals as well. Desensitization involves introducing the dog to small amounts of whatever noises frighten him. For instance, if the dog is afraid of thunder, try tape recording your next thunderstorm and play it back slowly when the dog is relaxed. Reward the dog for not showing fear responses.

     

    This kind of desensitization training can be remarkably effective for some dogs, but it will take lots of patience and hard work. Fears of thunder and fireworks are not always easy to cure.

    Are you also a cat person? Owning A Domestic Cat 101: Important Tips, And What Supplies To Get

     

     

    Teaching Your Dog Not To Chew

    Chewing is something that comes naturally to every dog. Every dog feels the instinctual need to sharpen its teeth and hone his biting skills. Chewing on the right things, like specially designed chew toys for instance, can even help the dog clean his teeth and remove plaque.

     

    Even though chewing is natural and healthy, that does not mean that the dog should be given carte blanche and allowed to chew everything in sight. It is vital for every dog to learn the difference between the things it is OK to chew on, like toys and ropes, and the things that are off limits, such as carpets, shoes and other items.

     

    When working with a new puppy, it is advisable to keep the puppy in a small, puppy proofed room for at least a few weeks. This is important not only to prevent chewing but to properly house train the puppy as well.

     

    Older dogs should also be confined to a small area at first. Doing this allows the dog to slowly acquaint him or herself to the smells and sights of the new household.

     

    When you set up this small, confined area, be sure to provide the puppy or dog with a few good quality chew toys to keep him entertained while you are not able to supervise him. Of course the dog should also be provided with a warm place to sleep and plenty of fresh clean water.

     

    As the dog is slowly moved to larger and larger portions of the home, there may be more opportunities to chew inappropriate items. As the dog is given freer access to the home, it is important to keep any items that the dog or puppy should not chew, things like throw rugs, shoes, etc. up off of the floor. If you forget to move something and come home to find that the dog has chewed it, resist the urge to punish or yell at the dog. Instead, distract the dog with one of its favorite toys and remove the inappropriate item from its mouth.

     

    The dog should then be provided with one of its favorite toys. Praise the dog extensively when it picks up and begins to chew its toy. This will help to teach the dog that it gets rewarded when it chews certain items, but not when it chews other items.

     

    Teaching the dog what is appropriate to chew is very important, not only for the safety of your expensive furniture and rugs, but for the safety of the dog as well. Many dogs have chewed through dangerous items like extension cords and the like. This of course can injure the dog severely or even spark a fire.

     

    Most dogs learn what to chew and what not to chew fairly quickly, but others are obviously going to be faster learners than others. Some dogs chew because they are bored, so providing the dog with lots of toys and solo activities is very important. It is also a good idea to schedule several play times every day, with one taking place right before you leave every day. If the dog is thoroughly tired after his or her play session, chances are he or she will sleep the day away.

     

    With this, we conclude our “Time For Puppy Preschool” series. We hope these entries helped you in the process to adapt yourself and your new puppy to your new life together. Please feel encouraged to say hello – we’ll be happy to help with any questions you might have, and if you’d like to comment on our site, products or service, we’d love to hear from you!



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  • Homeward Pet | Donate Stock, DAF or Crypto

    Homeward Pet | Donate Stock, DAF or Crypto


    Donate Stock, DAF or Crypto

    Stock, DAF or Crypto

    Give a Gift of Stock, Donor Advised Funds (DAF), or Crypto

    Donate Cryptocurrency
    Homeward Pet is now able to accommodate your cryptocurrency donations. Cryptocurrency is the fastest growing donation method today, due to its tax efficiency and the rapidly growing crypto user base. When you contribute Bitcoin or other cryptocurrency directly to Homeward Pet, we gain full proceeds from the sale, and you potentially eliminate capital gains exposure. This win-win could mean more money for the animals we all care about.

    Donate Stock
    Homeward Pet is able to receive gifts of stock directly from most brokerage accounts. Making a gift of stock to a registered 501(c)3 tax exempt organization like Homeward Pet has many benefits. In addition to receiving a charitable gift deduction; any gains or taxes that would otherwise be due upon sale are averted by the donor. The charity is able to sell your gifted stocks free of gains or taxes to make the full value of your gift available for mission impact.

    Donate Through a Donor Advised Fund
    donor-advised fund (DAF) is like a charitable investment account that you set up but is managed by a tax-exempt non-profit organization like the Seattle Foundation, Fidelity Charitable, or Schwab Charitable.  
    This way of giving is popular for people who want to give to Homeward Pet and other charities throughout the year and for extended periods of time.


    Nothing on this website should be construed as legal advice. We encourage you to speak with a financial advisor to understand all the benefits available to you when making any planned gift.



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  • That Time Clara Finally Met a Too-Weird Stranger

    That Time Clara Finally Met a Too-Weird Stranger


    A tan dog with black on her face and tail trots on the pavement. Her mouth is open and she looks happy. She is on leash and the leash is attached to a harness.
    Clara on a walk in September 2021

    This is about an incident in October 2021 that I wrote about at the time but never published here.

    I’ve been walking Clara every day in my neighborhood now since April [2021]. Now, recall that as a feral puppy she was introduced to the presence of humans other than me very gradually. We met with my trainer frequently at an outdoor mall where we could control distance well. Clara was a tough case. It was a slow process, but she got to where she could walk through crowds of people happily, as long as no one tried to interact with her, and I could either prevent that or move away.

    A young tan dog with black on her face sits in front of some tall grass. She has on two-tone blue harness. Her mouth is open and she is panting but looks happy.
    One-year-old Clara at the outskirts of the mall (2012)

    At the mall, Clara was exposed to way more varieties of humans than many “normal” dogs see in their lifetimes. She has remained blasé about assistive equipment, hats, sunglasses, things being carried, big families, toddlers, children, kids riding on their dads’ shoulders, big hair, flowing garments, uniforms, people on ladders and roofs, people doing construction work, bicycles and scooters, people moving fast—all that. Which is great.

    On our walks in the neighborhood, she has retained that indifference to a very wide range of humans. They predict a treat from me if she wants it, but otherwise can be ignored. Recently we walked by a man who was practicing with his fly fishing rod in his front yard! That was fine.

    Social distancing is great, since she is good with strange people, even if they look at her, as close as about eight feet. So I can even stop to chat with someone if I need to.

    Today, though, she finally saw someone she didn’t like.

    There was a small, old man dressed all in black jogging clothes. He walked unsteadily. He was smack in the middle of the street, and he was obviously (to me) looking at his front yard from different angles. So he was neither “walking with purpose,” a behavior Clara recognizes, or “standing around,” either alone or with a group, which is another familiar behavior. Or jogging, or sitting, or working in his yard. He was stopping and starting (unsteadily) and peering. We were between one and two houses away when Clara saw him. I already was paying close attention to both him and her since it would be hard to get by him at a comfortable distance.

    “Grrrrr,” said Clara. This dog who virtually never growls.

    I initiated an immediate U-turn and we went a different way. Yes, I likely negatively reinforced the growl. This vanishingly rare response from her was so much better than any escalating behaviors would have been.

    I thought it was interesting that this would be the one person in months she would be bothered by, and maybe the only person she has ever growled at as an adult. And at that distance!

    It took us a while to find someone whose looks and behavior fell outside Clara’s very wide knowledge of what “normal humans” in the mid-southern U.S. do, but we found him! I wish I could have taken a picture.

    A tan dog with black on her face and tail trots on the grass. Her mouth is partly open

She has a black harness and leash.
    Clara on a walk in May 2024

    Back to 2024. I walked with Clara virtually every day from April 2021 until her last evening on earth in late September 2024. She never growled at a human again.

    Her walk became the favorite part of her day. None of that would have happened without the excellent training she had as a youngster. But she took that firm foundation and grew into an amazing dog. I’m so proud of her. And I think fondly about the moment when a human finally stepped so far out of bounds. It took a lot to get that response out of her!

    What’s the weirdest thing your dog has encountered, whether or not they reacted to it?

    Related Posts

    Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson



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  • AI Expert Discusses the Future of AI in Veterinary Medicine

    AI Expert Discusses the Future of AI in Veterinary Medicine


    First in A Series on Goodnewsforpets.com: AI in Veterinary Medicine

    Editor’s Note: Jonathan Lustgarten, MS, PhD, VMD, CSPO, is the Director of AI and Machine Learning for Mars Veterinary Health and a past president of the Association for Veterinary Informatics. He lectures frequently at veterinary meetings and is a leading expert in the use of AI in veterinary medicine. Goodnewsforpets.com Editor and Publisher Lea-Ann Germinder sat down with him at VMX 2025 to discuss AI’s impact, challenges, and future in veterinary medicine. With a focus on responsible AI implementation, Dr. Lustgarten provides insights into where the technology is headed and what veterinarians should consider as AI tools continue to evolve to improve pet healthcare and veterinary medicine.

    Dr. Lustgarten, AI has been a major topic in veterinary medicine. What do you think is the biggest challenge in properly implementing AI?

    The biggest challenge isn’t necessarily just the technology—it’s the operational aspect of integrating AI correctly. Veterinarians are already juggling a lot, and while AI can make tasks faster in theory, it often requires an upfront investment of time and effort. There’s also a misconception that AI always improves efficiency, but when generative AI misses the mark, it can take longer to correct errors than if a veterinarian had done it manually.

    For example, voice-to-text applications are gaining popularity, but they still pose accuracy issues. The real test of efficiency isn’t just whether AI saves time, but whether it produces accurate, reliable results consistently. AI also needs to be transparent so veterinarians can understand how AI produced the output.

    Is generative AI the only AI used in the veterinary clinic or are there other types of AI used?

    Generative AI tools such as ChatGPT is not the only tool in the veterinary clinic, but it often overshadows other forms of AI. There’s a lot of valuable AI technology in the veterinary clinic that isn’t generative that is used in diagnostics for example.

    Non-generative AI, that is AI that is used to predict discrete states or things, has the distinct advantage of easily identifying (and correcting) if it is wrong.  You know if it predicts the pet will get renal disease, and it does not, that the AI was incorrect.  Generative AI is more nuanced as you can have an output that is close but may not capture the full story or complexity of what was said or done. Is this then a “good” or “correct” output is much harder to evaluate and improve on except by the tincture of time.

    Where do you see AI making the biggest impact right now in veterinary medicine?

    Right now, we’re seeing the most progress in administrative AI—things like appointment scheduling, answering basic pet health questions, and prescription management. These areas benefit from automation because they’re routine and structured. However, when it comes to direct medical decision-making, we’re further away from AI playing a dominant role. One of the biggest barriers is that veterinary medicine lacks the volume of structured data that human medicine has and the money to make the data structured when it is not, making AI training more challenging.

    AI hallucinations, or incorrect outputs, have been a big concern. How do they affect veterinary applications?

    This is a critical issue. AI systems sometimes fabricate information with great confidence, which can be dangerous in a medical setting. We’ve seen cases where AI systems in human medicine made up patient histories, and that kind of risk extends to veterinary AI. If veterinarians don’t double-check AI-generated content, errors could easily make their way into medical records, potentially leading to incorrect treatments. That’s why education and responsible AI practices are so important.

    What about data privacy? How secure are these AI systems for veterinary practices?

    Security is a big concern, especially when it comes to how AI companies handle data. Many AI providers claim to be HIPAA-compliant, but that mainly refers to access control, not necessarily to how they use the data internally. Some agreements allow AI companies to use uploaded data to improve their models. Veterinarians need to be aware of what they’re agreeing to when they use these systems and avoid entering personally identifiable information (PII) into free AI platforms.

    What advice would you give veterinarians looking to evaluate AI tools for their practice?

    First, always test AI tools yourself before committing to them. Don’t just rely on a demo video—request a trial period and use the AI on complex cases, not just simple ones. If an AI company cannot provide examples of mistakes their system has made and how they corrected them, that’s a red flag. Every AI system will make errors, and transparency about those errors is key.

    AI regulation in veterinary medicine is still evolving. How does this compare to human medicine?

    Human medicine has far more established frameworks for AI oversight, with professionals trained in biomedical informatics and regulatory pathways for AI-powered medical devices. Veterinary medicine doesn’t yet have equivalent structures, so we’re seeing a lot of AI tools being introduced without formal vetting. That can lead to problems down the line, as regulations will eventually catch up. My concern is that if AI adoption happens too quickly without proper oversight, we could see significant failures that impact patient care, and it can detract from or stop future development, which is akin to what happened to machine learning in human medicine in the early ‘00s.

    Given the rapid changes in AI, where do you think we’ll be in veterinary medicine in five to ten years?

    I believe we’ll see a shift toward AI as an assistive technology rather than a replacement for human expertise. Think of AI in cars—people trust lane-keeping assist, but they don’t want to give up control completely. The same will be true in veterinary medicine. AI will be an invaluable assistant, helping veterinarians recall medical histories, organize data, and improve workflow, but it won’t replace human decision-making.

    We must ask your view on the debate on when we will see artificial general intelligence (AGI)?

    In terms of artificial general intelligence (AGI), I’m skeptical that we’ll see anything close to human-like intelligence soon. AI excels at pattern recognition, but true intelligence requires reasoning, emotion, and creativity—things that are incredibly difficult to program. What we will see is highly specialized AI that’s exceptionally good at specific tasks but not an all-knowing system that can replace veterinarians. I do think we will have to differentiate between AI intelligence and human intelligence. I believe those two will divide as the technology progresses.

    Finally, what should veterinarians do now to prepare for AI’s role in their profession?

    Stay informed and engage with AI thoughtfully. Veterinarians should educate themselves on AI’s capabilities and limitations, advocate for responsible AI policies, and demand transparency from AI providers. As AI becomes more prevalent, it will be crucial to balance innovation with ethical considerations to ensure these technologies truly benefit both veterinarians and their patients.

    Thank you, Dr. Lustgarten, for your expert insights on AI in veterinary medicine. Stay tuned for more interviews with leading experts on AI and veterinary medicine to improve pet healthcare!

    Disclosure: Lea-Ann Germinder conducted this interview in person with Dr. Lustgarten. AI tools were used to record, transcribe, and edit, with Lea-Ann Germinder performing the final oversight and Dr. Lustgarten reviewing for accuracy.

     

     



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  • How Do I Know If My Puppy Will Survive Parvo – Beating The Odds

    How Do I Know If My Puppy Will Survive Parvo – Beating The Odds


    This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

    Canine Parvovirus: It’s the virus that wreaks havoc on a puppy’s gastrointestinal system and a diagnosis every dog owner fears hearing!

    What are the chances that a dog with parvo will survive?

    Learning that your pup has canine parvovirus is beyond scary—it’s terrifying! When faced with this diagnosis the first question you’d want to ask is, “How do I know if my puppy will survive parvo?”

    How Do I Know If My Puppy Will Survive Parvo? - Yellow Lab puppy resting on my foot

    Disclaimer: We are not veterinarians. If you think your puppy is sick you should consult your veterinarian immediately.

    Unfortunately, canine parvovirus in puppies is very common and often fatal. When not diagnosed or treated in time, parvo’s mortality rate is as high as 91%! 

    Immediate diagnosis and treatment are paramount and will significantly increase your puppy’s chance of surviving parvo.

    With aggressive treatment and proper care, your puppy has a good chance of making a full recovery and reaching a ripe old age

    In this article, I will tell you everything you need to know about canine parvovirus. Keep on reading to learn if a puppy can survive parvo, signs that your pup is recovering, and much more. 

    What Is Parvovirus?

    While most dog owners have heard of parvo, only those who’ve cared for an infected puppy truly understand how devastating this virus is.

    Parvo has a high mortality rate and is one of the most infectious viruses that affect dogs. 

    The scary thing is, parvo can survive in the soil for years, and you can pick it up outside and transfer it to your puppy without knowing it!

    Your puppy can also contract parvo through direct contact with an infected dog, so be extra vigilant if you are raising sibling puppies.

    Another possible scenario of catching parvo is by indirect contact with a contaminated object.

    So, every time your puppy goes outside and sniffs or licks doggy poop, there is a chance of exposure if the poop is contaminated.

    Furthermore, your puppy can get parvo if they play with an infected dog or puppy, or touch a food bowl, leash, collar, or harness used by an infected dog.

    Canine parvovirus is classified as a gastrointestinal disease since it causes the most damage to the stomach and small intestines. This virus destroys cells in the small intestines, which diminishes nutrient absorption. 

    The most common symptoms of parvovirus are:

    • Loss of appetite
    • Fever
    • Vomiting 
    • Bloody diarrhea 
    • Abdominal pain
    • Lethargy

    If your puppy is experiencing any of these symptoms, don’t waste a second—take them to the veterinarian straight away!

    How Do I Know If My Puppy Will Survive Parvo

    Most puppies die from parvo within 48 to 72 hours following the onset of the first symptoms. Immediate reaction and treatment are crucial and will significantly improve your puppy’s chance of surviving parvo.

    Our third guide dog puppy, Dublin did not catch parvo but one of his siblings did. They got him treatment right away. Unfortunately, Dublin’s sibling succumbed to canine parvovirus. 🙁

    What Are The Chances Of My Puppy Surviving Parvo?

    The chances of a puppy surviving parvo greatly depend on how soon after initial symptoms your puppy has been diagnosed and treated.

    Up to 91% of untreated puppies will die within two to three days after exhibiting the first symptoms of parvo. 

    Please, don’t try to wait out the virus, thinking your puppy will get better on its own! Parvo is deadly and dangerous because it acts quickly, so you need to be quicker than the virus. 

    The good news is, with quick reaction and proper veterinary treatment your puppy has a 68–92% survival chance. Furthermore, most puppies that survive the first three to four days make a full recovery.

    Quick reaction and veterinary intervention significantly increase your puppy’s chance of getting over parvo. However, your puppy’s chance of surviving parvo also depends on:

    1. Time Of Treatment

    As mentioned, the time your puppy starts treatment is essential for their survival.

    Bear in mind, your puppy will have the best shot at full recovery if they begin treatment in the first 24 to 72 hours of first experiencing symptoms.

    If your puppy hasn’t received its complete series of vaccinations and is showing symptoms of parvo, take them to the veterinarian right away.

    A young puppy’s immune system isn’t strong enough to fight such a strong infection. 

    Delaying treatment is never a good idea with parvo. If you ignore the symptoms, thinking your pup will get better, their condition will rapidly deteriorate till the point of no return.

    Unfortunately, it’s not uncommon for new owners to mistake vomiting and diarrhea with a tummy ache and blame it on something their puppy ate.

    In these cases, the proper diagnosis and treatment are delayed, which can affect the puppy’s chances of survival. 

    Still, it’s always better to take your puppy to the vet late than never! While a delayed reaction doesn’t automatically mean that your puppy won’t survive, you should be prepared for every possible outcome. 

    2. Type Of Treatment

    Although canine parvovirus is very common, there is still no specific medication designed to kill the virus in infected puppies and dogs.

    The treatment for parvo is designed to relieve the puppy’s symptoms, thus giving their immune system a chance to fight off the disease. 

    Treatment should be started as soon as your puppy is diagnosed, and it primarily consists of intensive care.

    Your puppy should receive IV fluids with electrolytes to combat dehydration, medication to combat vomiting and diarrhea, and antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infection.

    The initial treatment for parvo is aggressive and typically lasts three to four days. With the right type of treatment, you should start noticing signs your puppy is getting over parvo.

    Mainly, your puppy’s stool won’t have any blood in it and should start firming up.

    Using the wrong type of treatment can jeopardize a puppy’s chance of surviving parvo. Thus, it is very important that you discuss treatment options with your veterinarian. 

    Depending on the severity of your puppy’s condition and its symptoms, your veterinarian may suggest keeping the puppy hospitalized for the initial treatment.

    This is always a good option if you aren’t able to provide at-home care or have other dogs at home. 

    3. Underlying Health Problems

    Underlying health conditions are often overlooked in puppies since most are born completely healthy.

    However, puppies from pet stores and puppy mills are often born sick and may have more than one undiagnosed health problem. 

    Unfortunately, puppies with underlying health issues have lower chances of surviving parvo.

    The puppy’s immune system is already stretched too thin and isn’t equipped to fight on two fronts. In these cases, a puppy’s health will rapidly deteriorate and its body will start to shut down.  

    4. Severity Of The Symptoms

    Figuring out the chances of your puppy surviving parvo often comes down to the severity of their symptoms.

    If your puppy is no longer vomiting and shows some signs of appetite, these are clear signs that they are responding well to the treatment.

    However, if two or three days have passed and your puppy is continuing to throw up and still has bloody diarrhea, know that things aren’t looking good.

    This is the time to talk with your veterinarian and discuss the course of treatment. 

    If your puppy isn’t responding well to the initial treatment plan, your veterinarian may suggest a blood plasma transfusion.

    This is generally only done in severe cases, and it’s a good indicator that your puppy isn’t doing well. 

    Even if your veterinarian does everything right, there is still a chance that your puppy won’t survive parvo.

    The near-death signs of parvo include severe lethargy, continuous bloody diarrhea, anorexia, and bloody vomiting. 

    You may not want to admit it to yourself, but this is the point of no return. So consider doing a humane thing by putting your puppy to sleep.

    While saying goodbye to your puppy will be extremely hard, take comfort in knowing they are no longer in pain and that you did everything you could to help. 

    What Are The Signs Your Puppy Is Getting Over Parvo?

    How Do I Know If My Puppy Will Survive Parvo? - black lab puppy lying on the concrete floor.
    How Do I Know If My Puppy Will Survive Parvo?

    Parvo is a terrible disease, but with a fast reaction and aggressive treatment, your puppy can be on the road to recovery just in a few days. There are several signs that can let you know your puppy is getting over parvo. 

    Seeing these signs in your puppy means they are reacting well to the treatment and that their body is fighting the infection. The most common signs your puppy is getting over parvo include:

    1. Your Puppy Stops Vomiting

    The canine parvovirus causes small intestines to bleed, thus affecting the entire gastrointestinal system.

    As a result, a sick puppy will start to vomit, which can lead to dehydration. A dehydrated puppy will try to drink water to stay hydrated, but will automatically vomit any solid food or water that is consumed.

    The vomiting can become so bad that at some point you may find blood in your puppy’s vomit or foamy yellow bile.

    Bearing this in mind, one of the first signs that your puppy is recovering from parvo is the lack of persistent vomiting. Furthermore, you will notice that your pup is no longer drooling or foaming at the mouth. 

    2. Puppy Stops Pooping Bloody Diarrhea

    Persistent bloody diarrhea is one of the telltale signs of parvo. Besides the blood, your puppy’s stool will have a distinctive strong odor.

    So when you notice that your puppy’s poop is firming up and that there are no traces of blood in it, that’s a clear sign that your pup is getting better. 

    As your pup continues to recover from parvo, its stool will regain its normal color and consistency.

    A firmer and blood-free stool is a good indicator that there is no bleeding in your pup’s intestines and that they are recovering. 

    3. Your Puppy Starts Eating Normally

    With the onset of the first symptoms of parvo, puppies tend to lose their appetite. As a result, your puppy will lose weight rapidly, but its belly might appear bloated. 

    As your puppy starts to recover, they will regain their natural appetite and start eating as before catching parvo. When you notice that your puppy is willing to eat, know this is a sure sign that they are healing. 

    At this point, your pup will be able to hold down any food and water it consumes, and will slowly start to regain the lost weight.

    Bear in mind, puppies recovering from parvo will need to eat easily digestible, bland food that won’t irritate their stomachs.

    Your veterinarian will suggest an appropriate dietary plan and you should follow their instructions to the letter. 

    4. Increased Activity

    Weakness and lethargy are usually the first signs of parvo. As the infection progresses, you may notice that your puppy doesn’t respond to your calls.

    Furthermore, depending on the severity of their symptoms, your puppy may not have the energy to move or eat. 

    Puppies battling parvo will also experience fever, anemia, and even sepsis, which can drain their energy levels even more.

    Another sign your puppy is getting over parvo is when they start standing up and moving around without your help. As your puppy gets better, they will have more energy and show interest in toys and playing. 

    FAQs About A Puppy Surviving Parvo

    How Long Does It Take A Puppy To Get Over Parvo?

    Most puppies that survive the first three to four days of parvo will make a full recovery. However, the recovery period varies from one puppy to another and depends on the severity of the symptoms and other factors.

    It generally takes puppies one week to recover from parvo, but they are still contagious up to 10 days after clinical recovery.

    Puppies who’ve survived parvo should be quarantined until they stop carrying the virus in their bodies.

    After that point, you should talk with your veterinarian and have your puppy vaccinated before allowing them to interact with other dogs. 

    What Are The Chances That A Dog With Parvo Will Survive?

    Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious and potentially deadly disease if left untreated.

    Adult and older dogs who contract parvo have better chances of survival than puppies. The survival rate of dogs treated by a veterinarian is 68–92%. 

    Dogs and puppies that are diagnosed and treated within 24 to 72 hours following the first symptoms have the best survival rate and in most cases make a full recovery.

    Starting treatment as soon as possible is your dog’s best chance of surviving parvo and leading a normal life. 

    What Are The Stages Of Parvo?

    Most dogs that have been exposed to parvovirus will have a three- to five-day incubation period.

    During the first stage, most puppies show signs of lethargy and slowing down. Secondary signs of infection include loss of appetite and weight loss followed by vomiting and diarrhea.

    As the parvovirus starts to spread in your dog’s body, their symptoms may get much worse, resulting in dehydration.

    At this stage, your puppy should already take appropriate treatment including IV fluids that will help keep them hydrated. 

    If left untreated, the initial stages of parvo will quickly progress, resulting in severe dehydration caused by persistent vomiting and diarrhea.

    Additionally, secondary infection can occur as the result of a weakened immune system, which leads to sepsis and death.

    What Can I Do To Help My Puppy With Parvo?

    The best thing you can do to help your puppy recover from parvo is to take them to a veterinarian as soon as you notice the first symptoms.

    Your veterinarian will begin treating your puppy right away with fluid therapy, anti-nausea medication, and antibiotics. 

    While your puppy is being treated, you will have to try to feed them with a bland and highly digestible diet.

    Most puppies won’t have the energy to eat, so you should try bottle-feeding your puppy to help them get valuable nutrients. 

    Can A Puppy Get Parvo After Their First Shot?

    Puppies are vaccinated against parvo when they are approximately six, eight, and 12 weeks old.

    Until your puppy receives their full series of parvo vaccines, it can still get infected after coming into contact with a sick dog or contaminated object. 

    So even if your puppy got their first parvo shot, they can still catch the virus if exposed to it.

    Therefore, it’s very important that you keep your puppy away from other dogs and practice good hygiene until they are fully vaccinated.

    Additionally, your puppy will need to receive a booster shot a year later, and every three years after that.

    Conclusion

    Parvo has a high mortality rate, but most puppies make a full recovery thanks to an early diagnosis and aggressive treatment.

    But even if you and your veterinarian do everything right, there is a chance that your puppy won’t recover from parvo.

    Faced with all these terrible facts, you are probably wondering, how do I know if my puppy will survive parvo? 

    • Puppies treated within the first 72 hours have a 68–92% survival rate
    • Puppies that survive the first three to four days make a full recovery
    • Aggressive treatment gives the best results

    While canine parvovirus is a common disease in puppies, there is still no cure for this condition.

    The best and the only way you can prevent your puppy from catching this deadly virus is vaccination. So don’t wait–take your puppy for a shot today!

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    Will My Puppy Survive Parvo? - Beating The Odds - yellow lab puppy sleeping on my slipper.

    Resources

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      We Like: Beef Collagen Sticks – All of our pups love to bite, nip, and chew. We love using Collagen Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors.
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      We Like: Calmeroos Puppy Toy w/ Heartbeat and Heat Packs – Perfect for new puppies. Helps ease anxiety in their new home.
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      We Like: Crazy Dog Train-Me Treats – We use these as our high-value treats for our guide dog puppies.
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      We Like: The Farmer’s Dog – A couple months ago we started feeding Raven fresh dog food and she loves it! Get 50% off your first order of The Farmer’s Dog.

    Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist.



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  • Synthesized Reinforcement in Life with Dogs

    Synthesized Reinforcement in Life with Dogs


    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and one side of his face and brown ticking on his body is wearing a blue harness and attached leash. He is trotting on pavement toward the camera with his mouth open and his eyes soft, looking happy.

    This post is about the tricky concept of the combination of negative and positive reinforcement.

    I’ve always wondered about behaviors having more than one consequence. I’ve recently learned more about the possibility, and I’ve found a good example of it with Lewis.

    So-called “synthesized reinforcement” occurs when more than one reinforcer is a consequence of the same behavior. This occurrence has been recognized since at least as far back as 1969 (Osborne), but has only been named and systematically studied in the last 10 years. Synthesized reinforcement is noted in functional assessments and used in functional analyses.

    Synthesized Reinforcement and Escape to an Appetitive

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a black and blue harness and sitting in a yard, facing partially away from the camera.
    Lewis’ first harness

    Sometimes escape is just about getting away. From the scary monster, the hot stove—you need to move out of proximity now. But sometimes a function of escape is to get to something better. This topic is discussed plenty with humans. Reinforcement in combination like this is called synthesized reinforcement.

    Some scientists suggest that synthesized reinforcement is common, that looking for only one contingency in a functional assessment or functional analysis is artificial. Synthesized reinforcement can comprise aversive plus appetitive consequences, multiple aversives, or multiple appetitives. For example, multiple appetitives could be the cause of the extra joy your dog gets when you play with him with the toy, rather than when he plays with the toy by himself. Human examples abound. Think of the many, many ways that entering a stadium for a game is reinforced for a sports fan.

    Back to the curious combination of R- plus R+. The classic (if dated) example is waiting until there is a commercial during something you’re watching before getting up to get a snack. You get away from the tedious commercial (escape) and you get access to food (appetitive). Most of us dislike commercials, but we rarely walk away from the screen to do nothing for 30 seconds.

    Another example is doing extra work to get some time off from a class. Class isn’t so bad, but hey, a friend will take you waterskiing that day if you get the time off!

    Synthesized reinforcement is also the reason it is kind to provide another source of an appetitive when you are performing aversive husbandry activities. This is a lot kinder than just saying, “Hey, my dog can leave if he wants to.” If there is nothing else to do in the room and you control the only source of food, simply leaving is not such a great thing!

    So here is my real-life example.

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a red and black plaid harness and standing in the street. His tail droops a little bit from his normal carriage and he looks worried.
    Lewis’ second harness. He’s worried in the photo.

    Setting the Scene (the Antecedents)

    I walk my dogs individually every single day except in the case of illness or very bad weather. I have always gone in order of seniority, so young Lewis goes last.

    In the cooler months, we walk in the late afternoon. While I’m walking with Lewis, my partner fixes the dogs’ suppers. Lewis knows the routine: when he gets home from his walk, his supper will be waiting. Have I mentioned that he is excitable?

    In contrast, in the hot months, I walk the dogs much later. It’s near dusk and long after they have eaten their suppers.

    The Action: Harness Removal

    Lewis is excited to get his harness off (the teal one in the photo below) when his supper is waiting. But the tracking unit on his GPS collar is bulky. That means the harness can catch on the collar if he moves while I’m manipulating the straps. So I set a contingency on harness removal: I don’t remove the harness until he stays still.

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a blue and purple harness. He has his back to the camera and is looking at something.
    A harness we used for a time after Lewis gained some weight.

    Our system is that first I unsnap the two buckles. Then he needs to be particularly still while I maneuver the harness over the transmitter on the collar. After I’ve done that, I give his release cue. Lightning fast, he jerks his head all the way out of the harness and dashes to get his supper.

    Usually I give my dogs a treat after I put on or take off their harnesses. Having someone fiddle with straps and snaps around your body is not the most fun thing. But in this situation, Lewis is completely uninterested in that one treat; his supper is waiting for him.

    I’ve described a whole chain of behaviors and consequences. Lewis’ behaviors include being still, pulling his head out of the harness while backing up, and running toward his supper. I am going to simplify the scenario somewhat. Let’s focus on his “self-removal” of the harness, the escape behavior.

    A. Harness is in an uncomfortable position (around his neck, half-on, half-off)
    B. Lewis wriggles out of harness
    C. Harness is off (no longer uncomfortable; free to move away)

    This is a negative reinforcement scenario. But during part of the year, there is another big consequence available that’s tied to escaping the harness: a whole bowl of food. What effects might that have on Lewis’ harness behavior? I had a great way to find out.

    Evidence of Positive Reinforcement

    The immediate function of Lewis whipping his head around is to escape the harness. He wouldn’t whip his head on the way to getting his supper otherwise. But in the summer, Lewis’ behavior changes. When I switch to walking the dogs after supper instead of before, his meal is no longer awaiting him after his walk, and he knows that. When his supper isn’t waiting, he does not whip his head out of the harness. He “helps” me get the harness off, but with a mild twist or wiggle, often after a delay. The behavior has changed from “Let me out of here!” to “Meh, I guess I could pull my head back a little bit to help get this harness off.”

    So the positive reinforcer (supper) appears to have a large role to play! When it is not present, Lewis does only the minimum to help me remove the harness. The topography of the behavior is different and there is no discretionary effort.

    Could I Do Anything Differently with the Harness Removal?

    My tentative conclusion is that there is always an element of negative reinforcement with the act of harness removal, at least with the harnesses I use. If I waive the contingency of the dog being still before getting out of the harness, there is still the automatic negative reinforcement of the behavior of wiggling out. And even standing absolutely still could be an escape behavior if they’ve figured out that’s the most efficient way for the harness to come off.

    But I recently realized the obvious: Instead of removing his harness when he enters, I can unsnap his leash and leave the harness on. No wrangling! I can wait until after Lewis has eaten his supper and experienced anything else interesting that is going on in the house before I remove his harness.

    When I remove the harness after the excitement, there is still an element of automatic negative reinforcement, but there is much less frustration for him. And he accepts my offering of kibble.

    A white dog with solid brown on his ears and brown ticking on his body is wearing a teal harness and leash and a rainbow collar. He is sniffing some grass, his mouth is slightly oopen, and looks happy and engaged with the environment.
    Lewis in his “big boy” Hurtta harness. To remove it, I have to unsnap two buckles, then pull it over his head.

    The Big Picture

    The idea of synthesized reinforcement is a fascinating one, but it’s also annoying. It can dislodge a lot of assumptions. It ruins our hopes, once again, that we live in a neat and binary world. That if we just follow the right formulae, that if we are careful with our functional assessments, we can teach our dogs successful pet behaviors without any presence of aversives. That we can reduce every situation to one contingency, so we know which ones to use and which ones to avoid. That doesn’t always happen for me.

    Synthesized reinforcement also doesn’t fit perfectly if we think in terms of contingency tables (“quadrants”), which I still do. Modern behavior analysts categorize behavior more and more by function. Usually there are four to six possible functions identified, depending on your source. You will find behavioral functions listed most often as social, escape, tangible, and sensory (Cooper et al., 2014, p. 511). Lewis’ harness behavior would be described as escape to a tangible (some systems would further specify an edible). The synthesized reinforcement example I listed above, playing with your dog with a toy, adds social reinforcement to access to a tangible.

    But I live in the dog training world, and we are still wrestling with contingency tables. If you think I am on my way to promoting R-, you haven’t read much of my stuff. Escape to a tangible is super common in the human world. But in training and other dealings with dogs, what I have seen is that escape contingencies (R-) are mostly implemented by humans in unpleasant ways for dogs. And even what seems to us to be a minor aversive consequence can have fallout. I’ll stick mostly with the contingency way of discussing things for now, while learning more about functional categories.

    Living with our dogs, it is very, very hard to avoid R- completely. I accept that R- is present sometimes even though I don’t want it to be. I am committed to being transparent about that. When I required Lewis to be still while I pulled his harness over his head, I was using an R- contingency for safety. But I figured out how to recast that situation by removing his harness after he ate instead of before. Observing tiny aversive moments allows me to practice my analysis, burrow deeply, and pursue my goal of making my dogs’ lives better.

    References and Resources

    Note: Most of these resources involve the use of ABA with children, either deaf or autistic. Some people may prefer not to check them out. See my statement about ABA on my training philosophy page.

    Cooper, J. O., Heron, T. E., & Heward, W. L. (2014). Applied behavior analysis, second edition. Pearson.

    Ghaemmaghami, M., Hanley, G. P., Jin, S. C., & Vanselow, N. R. (2016). Affirming control by multiple reinforcers via progressive treatment analysis. Behavioral Interventions31(1), 70-86.

    Holehan, K. M., Dozier, C. L., Diaz de Villegas, S. C., Jess, R. L., Goddard, K. S., & Foley, E. A. (2020). A comparison of isolated and synthesized contingencies in functional analyses. Journal of Applied Behavior Analysis53(3), 1559-1578.

    Smith, S. W., Arroyo Antúnez, B. E., DeBartelo, J., Sullivan, W. E., Roane, H. S., & Craig, A. R. (2024). Synthesized alternative reinforcement and resurgence. Journal of the Experimental Analysis of Behavior122(2), 195-206.

    Osborne, J. G. (1969). Free‐time as a reinforcer in the management of classroom behavior. Journal of Applied Behavior Analysis2(2), 113-118.

    Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson



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  • Is My Dog Pregnant? Are You Considering Spaying Or Neutering Your Dog?


    Your dog is in heat and you notice the stud next door eyeing her up. They are left alone for a few hours and chances are they mated. So how can you tell if your dog is pregnant? There is no missed period, and no mood swings. There is not even a home pregnancy test that dogs can take. Not only do they not make them, but a dog will go through the same hormonal changes whether she is pregnant or not so there is no HCG produced in a dog’s body. So a blood test is out also. 

    How to tell if a dog is pregnant:

    There are signs you can look out for. If your dog’s stomach looks swollen or she looks like she had sudden weight gain and her nipple area seems swollen these are all signs that your dog could be pregnant. The most definitive way of knowing is by going to your vet. Your vet will do an ultrasound to determine if your dog is pregnant.

    How long is a dog pregnant:

    So what can you expect now that your dog is expecting? For starters it is a quick pregnancy. A dog is only pregnant for anywhere from 60-63 days. Sounds like a dream come true.

     

    Your dog usually will not need any extra nutrients throughout most of her pregnancy. In fact you might find that your dog will lose some of her appetite and vomit a few times in the beginning of her pregnancy. It is just like our morning sickness only it lasts a week or so and it usually comes about 2 to 3 weeks into your dog’s pregnancy.

    Take a look at some of our other entries, like this one: Time For Puppy Preschool Part 5: Preparing For Dog Graduation. There you will find some guidance into advanced dog training exercises, keeping your dog motivated, dealing with separation anxiety, and more.

     

     

    Do Pregnant Dogs Need To Be Fed A Different Diet?

    During the last 3 to 4 weeks of pregnancy you might want to increase her food slowly so that by the time she delivers she will be eating only about 25-30% more than she was beforehand. That really is not a lot. Make sure you add this in slowly and try not to overdo it. You do not want your dog gaining too much weight.

    A lot of well meaning pet owners start increasing their soon-to-be-a-mommy’s food intake right from the start because they are under the assumption that they need the extra calories to grow their puppies. This is not true at least not for the beginning and middle of the pregnancy. It is only in the last few weeks. The reason why you are going to wait until the end of the pregnancy to increase her food intake is because that is when the puppies really begin to grow. Your dog will need more nutrients and energy to grow these pups. Some vets will recommend you switch her over to a growth/puppy food because it will provide the nutrients for her growing family. Other vets will suggest you put her on a nursing/lactation diet.

    It is up to you on how you want to feed her. You may want to feed her two small meals throughout the day. It might be hard to feed her in one feeding because her puppies may be taking up a lot of room and she might not be able to eat it all at once. You might even want to break the rule of not leaving food in your dog’s bowl all day for these last few weeks. It might be beneficial to your dog if you do this, but make sure you are watching what she eats.

    Dogs can develop toxemia or eclampsia late in their pregnancy if they do not eat enough or have a poor diet. Again some doctors will give your dog vitamins during pregnancy and others will not. Do not add any vitamins or minerals on your own to your dog’s diet. It can be deadly to both the mom and the pups. Especially calcium which can increase the chance of eclampsia and even a milk fever after birth.

    Milk fever is when the mother does not have the ability to move calcium into their milk without taking it from themselves.

    Are you more of a cat person? Perhaps this entry is more for you: Owning A Domestic Cat 101: Cat Food And The Health Of Your Feline. Here you will get the basics of cat feeding, figuring out if your cat is overweight, what to expect from a healthy cat, spaying, neuterization, parasites, and more.

     

    Things To Be Cautious About

    A pregnant dog can still exercise, in fact it is recommended to keep her on a light exercise program. This will not only keep her muscles tone but it will also help with the weight gain. Just as with humans, obesity in pregnancy can cause some serious complications.

    Right before your dog is about to deliver, she will probably stop eating for a day or two. This is one of your first signs that delivery is immediate. You might want to keep some food out for her though, just in case she wants to nibble here and there to keep her strength up.

    Once she has given birth and all is well you are going to see a remarkable increase in her appetite. She is nursing after all and lactation brings upon more demands on her body. Expect her nutritional needs to multiple by 3 or 4 times. This does not happen at all once. Expect to see an increase the 20 to 30 days following the birth as the puppies grow and nurse more.

    By the time the puppies are a month old, your dog should be eating at least four times of what she did before she was pregnant. Keep an eye on her, if she seems to be getting too thin you can supplement the food more with some flavored canned food. Once 6 to 8 weeks have passed since delivery you should start weaning the pups and getting the mom back to normal.

    Is your dog’s barking becoming a problem? Sometimes our dogs’ incessant barking might become a real trouble for our own mental stability as for our neighbors tranquility. It is for the best if we find out why our dog is constantly barking, and learn how to control it.

     

    Getting Back To Normal

    To wean puppies you have to help the milk supply dry up. Withhold food and give her half of the water she normally drinks for one day. The next day, give her only a quarter of what she was eating before she got pregnant and half her water. From then on, give her all the water she wants and slowly over the next five days increase her food until she is eating what she was before her pregnancy. By the time she is back on her pre pregnancy food, her milk supply will have dried up and the puppies will have been weaned.

    So for a short while she will be fed more than normal, there is no reason to start going crazy with the feeding of your dog when she is pregnant. Keep her on the same schedule until the last month or so of her pregnancy. If you are unsure of when conception took place, your vet should be able to make an estimated guess for you and you can use that as a guideline. Even before your dog gets pregnant you should make sure she is eating a balanced meal and is not overweight.

    How do you know if you have an overweight dog? And if you do, what can you do to help your dog get a more healthy body? Here you go: Best Diet For Dogs And What To Do When You Have A Fat Puppy.

     

    Spaying Of The Female Dog

    Spaying of the female dog is undertaken to control the unwanted pregnancy. The spaying of the dog reduces the aggressiveness of the dog. By spaying, one can reduce the incidences of the commonly encountered reproductive diseases like pyometra.

    Spaying also helps to control the population in case of stray animals and many nations are doing these operations by removing the ovaries from the female animals. Experienced veterinarians are required to do the spaying in case of female dogs and the postoperative care is to be given more emphasis. If proper control measures are not taken after the surgical operation for the removal of ovary, then the infections may start setting in and the animal may end up in development of peritonitis and then toxemia sets in, causing unwanted health problems. Death of the dog may finally occur, if the dog is not provided an effective and proper veterinary care.

    A female dog that is spayed before the occurrence of first heat will have almost a zero chance of development of mammary cancer, which is more common with the dogs that are not spayed.

    A female dog generally comes to heat once in eight months or so. During the heat occurrence, there is bleeding from vagina and the dog may cross with the unwanted male and the spaying activity prevents all these. In case of aged dogs, the dog may often get signs of increased thirst, loss of appetite, vomiting etc. that are so common with pyometra.

    Pyometra means the presence of pus in the uterus. Once pyometra occurs, it involves many discomforts to the animal in addition to the cost factor involved for the therapy also. Such pyometra is totally prevented by spaying because in the case of spaying, you are removing both ovaries and the uterus.

    Ever heard of Coccidia and Giardia? They are nasty intestinal protozoan parasites that are common in young puppies. Vibralife Health Supplement Multivitamin and Natural Dewormer Alternative is packed with all-natural ingredients like reed sedge peat and diatomaceous Earth which work as a team to bind and remove toxins and parasites from your pet.

    Surgical Neutering Of The Male Dog

    Surgical neutering of the male dog is important in helping the dog owners to control the male dog’s aggressive behavior. Yes. By doing the surgical neutering, it becomes possible to control the dog’s restlessness, which might have caused so much agony for the owner and hence, neutering corrects such activity to the benefit of the dog owner.

    When the dog is in the puppy stage, the dog may be subjected to the surgical neutering technique. Hence, the hormonal impact is highly minimized in such male dogs.

    The surgical neutering of the male dog helps to prevent the incidences of prostate gland diseases. In canine patients undergoing the surgical neutering, the incidences of prostate enlargement are totally minimized.

    Sometimes, the adult male dog has more difficulties during defecation. However, one has to rule out the feed borne constipation like lack of fibers etc. before resorting to the fixation of prostate enlargement as a cause for this. Constipation is mainly due to the increased size of the prostate gland. Neutering makes shrinkage of the prostate gland. In surgical neutering, the incision is placed in front of the scrotum and the testicles are removed in a surgical manner using aseptic techniques.

    The wound does not need to be closed except for the tying up of the cord after cutting of the testicle. However, in two to three days after, as a routine tissue reaction, some swelling may occur in the scrotum. Once you administer the antibiotic that has a broader spectrum of activities, the condition gets recovered in a satisfactory condition. Septic shock may occur if the surgical site gets infected with some microbial infections and in these cases, the wound needs a thorough dressing procedure and the patient needs to be continuously monitored in a clinical environment.

    Please feel encouraged to say hello – we’ll be happy to help with any questions you might have, and if you’d like to comment on our site, products or service, we’d love to hear from you!



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