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برچسب: Dog

  • 21 Dog Training Commands – Basic To Advanced For A Well-Behaved Dog

    21 Dog Training Commands – Basic To Advanced For A Well-Behaved Dog


    This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

    So you have a new dog or puppy. Congratulations!

    Or, perhaps you want to train an older adult dog and you’re wondering what dog training commands you should teach.

    From Basic to Advanced - 21 Dog Training Commands - Yellow lab puppy in a down stay with the head tilt.

    Dogs of any age who are healthy can learn dog training commands. An “old dog” can learn new tricks!



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  • Dog Barking Problem: Controlling Your Dog’s Constant Barking


    Dogs bark. It is part of their normal and natural communication and behavior. Dogs can bark for appropriate and good reasons. The more you learn about dogs, the better your relationship will be. If you wish to know more about the reasons why your dog barks, here you go: Dog Barking Problem: Common Reasons For Your Dog’s Constant Barking

     

    If we want to control barking, we need a dog that can obey us and relax. The dog needs to look to their owner for behavior clues. If we can call them, have them lie down (dogs don’t bark as much when lying down) and stay, we are well on the way to solving a nuisance barking problem. In addition, there are some common principles we can use in modifying barking behavior.

     

    First, in most cases shouting “No” is only going to make matters worse since the dog is thinking you are barking too (and is probably happy you joined in).

     

    Be consistent. Pick a one-word command e.g., “Enough” for the behavior you want and always use that word in the same tone of voice. Everyone in the household must use the same command and act identically.

     

    Be patient with your dog and yourself. Changing behavior takes a lot of time, and you need to take it slowly, one step at a time. If you become angry at your dog, the chance to correctly modify the behavior will be gone.

     

    Reward the dog for good behavior. Positive reinforcement is much more powerful than punishment. Physical punishment will do nothing but make your dog fearful of you and break down the bond you wish to have with them. Often, picking a very special treat like small pieces of cooked chicken or hot dog will make the reward seem even better. As time goes on, you will not give a treat every time, sometimes just rewarding with a “Good Dog” and a pat on the dog’s chest.

     

    Control the situation. As much as possible, set up situations to use as training. Practice in short, frequent sessions, generally 5-10 minutes each.

     

    Do not be afraid to ask an expert. Animal trainers, behaviorists, and your veterinarian can give you valuable advice. Having them witness your dog’s barking episodes may give them valuable clues on helping you solve the barking problem.

     

     

    Still Curious About Common Barking Reasons?

    The key to knowing what to do with our dog’s barKing is to know why they do so in the first place. Here are some of the common reasons why they bark:

     

    • Trained to Bark: certain dogs are trained to bark while doing their jobs. Most common are the guard dogs.

     

    • Territorial Protection: when one comes near their territory, the dogs bark to show that you are intruding.

     

    • Startle barking: occurs in response to an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement. As with an alert/warning bark, we need to be able to control this type of barking quickly.

     

    • Self-identification barking: is what you may be hearing when your dog seems to be answering other dogs he hears barking in the neighborhood. It is his way of saying, “I am over here.”

     

    • Play/excitement barks: often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets too excited with the game. Often a time-out is in order.

     

    • Play or Excitement.

     

    • Lonely/anxious barking: occurs if your dog is experiencing separation anxiety. The barking can become self-reinforcing as he becomes more stimulated and anxious. Anxious barks tend to get higher in pitch as the dog becomes more upset. This type of barking can be especially annoying to your neighbors.

     

    • Lack of Exercise: your dog may need some time to stretch those muscles and give them time to play.

     

    • Improper Confinement: when their muscles due to small confinements in crates or cages, they bark or whimper.

     

    • Environmental Reasons: unfamiliar movements, people, or sounds cause dogs to bark as they may see it as a threat or fear it.

     

    • Boredom, Frustration, Loneliness: dogs feel lonely too and when they do, they bark and howl. Bored barkers simply need an outlet for their energy and a more stimulating environment.

     

    • Alert/warning barks: are the type of barks some owners encourage. They want their dog to alert them to the presence of a danger or suspicious stranger. Warning barks tend to become more rapid as the intruder approaches. Aggressive barks are low in pitch and may be combined with growls. We need to be able to distinguish warning barks from barks due to fear.

     

    • The Returning Family Member.

     

     

    Is There Any Other Reason?

    ? “I need to relieve myself please.”

     

    If this is the case, do not allow your dog’s barking to be its way of alerting you. You can try using a clicker to teach him a “Hush” command and then teach him an alternate alert signal such as pawing at the door. Every time he barks to go out, hush him, ask him if he has to “Go Potty” and then paw at the door with your hand. Repeat this process every time he barks to go out. Praise and treat every time he follows your lead.

     

    ? “I think someone is calling me.”

     

    Sometimes you’ll find dogs barking at each other. This doesn’t happen very often unless you have a dog next door that won’t shut up. You can try to distract him by playing with him or starting a game of fetch but this won’t solve the problem. Teaching him the “hush” command is the best way to eliminate this behavior.

     

    ? “I heard a loud noise and I don’t know what it is.”

     

    If you know that the noise does not pose a threat, stop the dog barking by playing with him or starting a game of fetch.

     

    ? “I’m thirsty.”

     

    Try teaching him the “Hush” command by using a clicker, and then when he has quieted down, fill his bowl with water. You can teach him to paw at his bowl by tapping on his bowl when he’s alerting you to fill his bowl. He will pick up on this after a while.

     

    ? “Don’t you dare come near my food while I’m eating?”

     

    Do not allow him to respond this way whenever someone walks by him while he’s eating. Next time it’s time to feed, place the bowl on your lap and feed him one morsel at a time. Do not allow him to reach the bowl. Show him that you are in control of his food. Do it until your pet gets accustomed to having someone touch his food. Have different members of the household try it as well. This will help desensitize him and show him he can trust you.

     

    If you have an overly-aggressive dog, then we would not recommend this.

     

    Your dog deserves the very best, that’s why you should learn how to feed them properly: Dog food for puppies: Why is it so important to get the best food for dogs.

     

     

    Control The Barking Behavior

    Once you determine the cause of your dog’s excessive barking, you can begin to control the behavior. Below are the things to do as agreed by most pet owners and handlers alike regarding barking and resolving it:

     

    • After getting your dog’s attention, practice basic commands, like sit and down in order to shift their focus.

     

    • Avoid leaving a lonely dog alone for long periods of time if possible.

     

    • Avoid punishments like shock collars. They are not only painful and unkind – many dogs will learn to test them and eventually work around them.

     

    • Consult your veterinarian and/or trainer if you continue to face barking issues despite your best efforts.

     

    • Do not encourage your dog to bark at sounds, such as pedestrians or dogs passing by your home, birds outside the window, children playing in the street and car doors slamming, by saying “Who’s there?” or getting up and looking out the windows.

     

    • DO NOT let your dog bark constantly outside, regardless of the reason. You can hardly train them to stop barking by yelling at them across the yard. Plus, it is one of the fastest ways to turn neighbors into enemies and send an invitation to your local police.

     

    • Do not punish your dog for barking at certain sounds, like car doors slamming and kids playing in the street, but then encourage him to bark at other sounds, like people at the door. You must be consistent!

     

    • Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise so there is not as much pent-up energy to burn by barking.

     

    • Never comfort, pet, hug or feed your dog when she is barking for attention or out of anxiety – that would be rewarding the behavior, thus encouraging it.

     

    • Never tie your dog’s muzzle closed with rope, cord, rubber bands or anything else. Doing this is dangerous, painful and inhumane.

     

    • Never use a muzzle or Husher to keep your dog quiet for long periods of time or when you’re not actively supervising him. Dogs can’t eat, drink or pant to cool themselves while wearing muzzles, so making your dog wear one for long periods of time would be inhumane.

     

    • Shouting at your dog to stop barking does not help. It may actually cause them to bark even more.

     

    • Train your dog to Speak and Be Quiet.

     

    • Try to get their attention with a clap or whistle. Once they are quiet, redirect their attention to something productive and rewarding – like a toy or treat.

     

    • Unless a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist advises you to do otherwise, never use punishment procedures if your dog is barking out of fear or anxiety. This could make them feel worse and, as a result, its barking might increase.

    Hey you, new dog owner. Now that you have a new puppy, this is the best time to train them the best way possible. So take a look at this: House and Crate Training 101: How To Crate Train Your Dog.

     

     

    Training A Dog yourself

    Now that we already are equipped with the knowledge about barking and their types, here are some easy steps in training our dog not to bark. They are simple and need not be professionals to be able to pull it off. All you need is patience:

     

    • Reward Silence – When your dog is barking, distracts it and wait for it to quiet down. Once it is quiet, provide a reward.

     

    • Don’t Let Him Greet Visitors – His excitement about visitors, delivery guys and other guests is largely due to their importance to him. If he routinely gets to greet people at the door then their visits matter. Deny him access to the doorway and ask your guests to ignore him when they arrive. Removing the importance visitors have for him can help reduce his eagerness to bark.

     

    • Provide More Exercise – A properly exercised dog is easier to train and also more relaxed. This helps solve barking issues. An exercised dog naps; an unexercised dog looks for something to do.

     

    • Deny Access to Barking Stations – If they have barking stations (by a window or door or the fence outside) deny them access. Managing the environment prevents them from seeing things that trigger their barking – such as dogs, animals or people.

     

    • Ignore Attention Seeking Barking – If they bark to get your attention and you respond, you’ve lost. If you are their focus when they are barking, ignore them. They will move on to another strategy soon enough.

     

    • Ignore Attention Seeking Barking – If he barks to get your attention and you respond, you’ve lost. If you are his focus when he’s barking, ignore him. He’ll move on to another strategy soon enough.

     

    • Provide Him with Something to Do – Dogs were originally bred for specific purposes. Without their jobs, they become bored, and a bored dog is more likely to bark. Provide him with interactive toys for entertainment.

     

    • Use Training Tools – Make things easy on yourself by using training products. These provide quick results without harming your dog. Use dog crates, as it makes it easy to manage their environment. Crates solve a lot of training problems, including barking, chewing, digging, and more.

     

    • Teach Him Speak and Be Quiet – Teach him to speak and hush on command. Once he grasps these you’ll be able to communicate with him when he begins barking too much. Then simply reward him for following your “Be Quiet” instruction.

     

    Please feel encouraged to say hello – we’ll be happy to help with any questions you might have, and if you’d like to comment on our site, products or service, we’d love to hear from you!



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  • Velcro Dog Breeds – Meet 9 Super Clingy Dog Breeds

    Velcro Dog Breeds – Meet 9 Super Clingy Dog Breeds


    This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

    Have you ever tried to close the door to the bathroom, only to realize your dog followed you and wants to come in?

    To be honest, the first time my dog tried to do this, I thought that he was the clingiest dog in the world.

    Velcro Dog Breeds - Meet 9 Clingy Dog Breeds - Golden Retriever puppy in a down stay on a blue, red, and green baby slide.

    Wanting to find the cause of my dog’s needy behavior, I stumbled upon the term Velcro Dog Breeds.

    Velcro Dog Breeds

    Velcro – noun – trademark a fastening consisting of two strips of nylon fabric, one having tiny hooked threads and the other a coarse surface, that form a strong bond when pressed together

    Dog – noun – a domesticated canid, Canis familiaris, bred in many varieties.

    Velcro Dog is used to describe dogs who like to follow their owners everywhere and are always clinging close by. And while this dependency is bred into many breeds, dogs can become suddenly clingy for a number of different reasons. 

    Clingy dogs take love and devotion to a whole other level, and it’s really nice to have a dog shadow your every move.

    However, if your pooch has become clingy all of a sudden, you should talk with your vet and schedule a checkup to be on the safe side.

    Some dogs become overly attached to their owners as they get older and start to have trouble seeing and hearing.

    Below, you will find a list of super clingy dog breeds that will follow and enjoy spending time with you all day every day!

    We have two clingy dogs at home. I’m talking about you, Elsa and Raven!

    Elsa is a 3-year-old black Labrador Retriever and I sometimes think she wants to be attached to me because she nuzzles so closely.

    Raven is a 9-year-old Golden Retriever. She’s a typical Golden and if her head is not on your lap then it’s on my wife’s lap or she’s snuggling with my kids.

    Goldens and Labs (Honorable Mention) are definitely velcro breeds but there are others that will cling to you.

    So without further adieu…

    9 Dog Breeds That Are Clingy

    Velcro Dog Breeds - Golden puppy lying down on doggy daddy
    Cuddling with Charlie a Golden Retriever puppy.

    If you are looking for a dog that will follow you around and never leave your side, you came to the right place! 

    However, before you decide to bring an extra clingy dog into your home, ask yourself whether you are comfortable having a shadow 24/7.

    If you don’t mind relinquishing your privacy for the foreseeable future, consider any one of the following super clingy velcro dog breeds!

    1. Vizsla 

    There is no better way of kick-starting the list of the clingiest dog breeds than with the Vizsla dog breed.

    Nicknamed the “Velcro Vizsla,” this athletic medium-sized dog breed forms extremely strong bonds with its owners. The Vizsla’s Velcro dog nature has a lot to do with the breed’s hunting origins.

    Cadaver Dog - Vizsla sitting next his owner training to be a cadaver dog.
    This Vizsla sticks next to his owner. He was training to be a cadaver dog.

    Developed in Hungary as a pointer and retriever, this breed had to stay close to the hunter, never straying too far from its handler.

    The years of working closely with people are evident in the breed today. Most Vizslas are always close to their owners, never leaving their sight and acting like shadows. 

    Despite their clingy nature, Vizslas are very active and hardworking dogs that need regular exercise to stay in good shape.

    When properly exercised and trained from an early age, the Vizsla will make an affectionate, gentle, and obedient companion.

    Please note, when left to its own devices, your Vizsla will easily become bored and destructive and may even become a barker. 

    If you look into dog breeds that never leave your side, you will hardly find a better candidate than a Vizsla!

    This breed will follow you everywhere, bathroom included, and will cling to your side at all hours of the day and night.

    On the other hand, if having a dog hot on your heels isn’t your cup of tea, choose another dog breed.

    2. French Bulldog

    Created in England as a companion dog, the French bulldog is a very clingy breed that craves a lot of human affection and attention.

    The bat-eared, small, but powerfully built Frenchie is an excellent choice for first-time owners and adapts well to apartment living. 

    Like all other clingy dog breeds, the French bulldog seeks constant companionship and thrives when provided with affection.

    When not provided with the attention it needs, your Frenchie will outright demand it! Bear in mind, that the French bulldog might be small but has a larger-than-life personality and a stubborn streak.

    Frenchies don’t like to be left alone for long periods of time and some even develop separation anxiety.

    If you have long working hours and can’t interact with your Frenchie much, consider getting another dog breed.

    On the other hand, if you have enough time and are looking for an affectionate lap dog, the Frenchie is a great choice. 

    3. Pug

    Originally bred to be a lap dog, the pug craves human companionship and is a true velcro dog.

    Sturdy, compact, and small, pugs have larger-than-life personalities and aren’t afraid to show their clownish nature just to get attention.

    Affectionate and friendly, this breed adapts well to apartment living, although they don’t appreciate being left at home alone.

    This breed has a happy-go-lucky approach to life and makes a great addition to families with children, singles, or seniors when provided with lots of attention.

    However, when left to their own devices, or ignored, pugs can become very unhappy. Like a true companion dog, your pug will crave your affection and cling to your lap as if his life depended on it.

    And while they are content spending their days being petted and adored, pugs are also comical dogs that enjoy silly antics.

    Bear in mind, that pugs are very smart, but they can also be very stubborn, which can make housetraining challenging.

    However, if you have time to spend time and train your dog every day from an early age, the pug will be an ideal companion.

    4. Chihuahua

    Chihuahua, the smallest dog breed in the world, is also one of the clingiest Velcro dog breeds.

    Fun-loving, agile, and smart, the chihuahua likes nothing more than to be close to its people and the sole focus of their attention. Due to their clannish nature, chihuahuas don’t get along very well with other breeds and prefer to be the only pet.

    This tiny dog will shadow your every move and will eagerly jump in a carrier and behave just to stay close by wherever you are.

    Although they demand attention from anyone they meet, chihuahuas form strong bonds with a single person. If by any chance you become this special someone, forget about looking at any other dog again!

    Chihuahuas indeed demand a lot of attention, but they also worship their owners and make loyal companions and great watchdogs.

    My old roommate’s girlfriend had a Chihuahua. Unfortunately, he wasn’t the friendliest of dogs. However, not all Chi’s are like this. If you do get a chihuahua, start training and socialization early on to help your puppy grow into a well-behaved and obedient dog.

    5. German Shepherd Dog

    The German shepherd dog is one of the most popular dog breeds in the world, and probably the one dog breed everyone recognizes on the spot.

    Developed in Germany for herding sheep, the German shepherd is a working dog breed that is used to perform a wide range of tasks.

    German Shepherd Mix Puppy Pile
    A German Shepherd Mix Puppy Pile!

    Highly intelligent, obedient, and trainable, German shepherds are valuable members of police and military units, but they are also amazing companions.

    While it’s hard to imagine that such a big dog can be clingy, German shepherds are extremely loyal and will always be by your side. 

    Smart and active, your German shepherd will need daily exercise to stay in good shape and will excel at agility courses.

    And while they are completely devoted to their families, German shepherd dogs are aloof toward strangers! To raise a friendly and well-mannered dog, start training and socializing your GSD puppy from an early age. 

    Please note, that this breed needs companionship and contact with its owner and can easily develop separation anxiety when left alone a lot.

    An anxious German shepherd will resort to barking, digging, chewing, and other forms of destructive behavior to ease their worry. So, if you have long working hours or travel a lot, you should consider a less clingy dog breed. 

    6. Italian Greyhound

    The Italian greyhound is a slender, agile, and elegant-looking dog bred to hunt by sight and chase small game.

    And while they were used for hunting, Italian greyhounds were prized companion dogs due to their gentle and highly affectionate nature. Kind and loving, this breed is an amazing family companion that seeks attention and affection.

    The Italian greyhound loves to spend time with its human family and will be the happiest spending all day snuggling with you on the sofa.

    Sensitive and affectionate, your Italian greyhound will shadow your every move and won’t mind following you to the bathroom or waiting until you finish showering. 

    While Italian greyhounds are playful, curious, and affectionate with their owners, they are shy and reserved towards strangers. However, when properly socialized from an early age, your dog will be willing to be petted or held by visitors. 

    Remember that although highly intelligent, this breed has a short attention span.

    This makes training difficult and you will have to find a high reward treat that will motivate your pooch to train. Furthermore, even when motivated, Italian greyhounds can be extremely difficult to house-train. 

    If you are looking into clingy dog breeds, the Italian Greyhound is an excellent choice! They need a lot of love and affection and will follow you all day long and seek cuddles.

    However, if you value your privacy and your “me time,” this breed isn’t the right dog for you.

    7. Golden Retriever

    The Golden retriever is one of the most popular dog breeds and an amazing family dog. Originally bred to be a gun dog, the golden retriever is still a capable working breed that excels at many tasks.

    Smart, gentle, and easy to train, this breed can adapt to any home and makes a great companion to people of all ages. 

    Golden Retriever Christmas Puppy - presents stockings and other Christmas decor with english cream golden
    English Cream Golden Retriever puppy for Christmas!

    While they might not seem clingy, goldens were bred to work with people and have a strong urge to stay close to their owners at all times.

    They seek constant companionship and should live indoors with their human family. Golden retrievers get along with everyone, including children and other pets, and like to be involved in all family activities.  

    Since they are hard-wired to please, you won’t have any trouble training and socializing your golden from a young age.

    Unlike other Velcro dog breeds, your golden might not follow your every move, but he will snuggle with you on the sofa and watch TV. 

    8. Doberman Pinscher

    At first glance, the Doberman Pinscher looks intimidating, but underneath all that muscle hides a cuddly, affectionate, and loving dog.

    Bred as guard dogs, Doberman Pinchers are highly energetic and intelligent dogs. They are used by the military and police but are also great family companions and guard dogs.

    While they may look scary and vicious to those who don’t know them, Dobermans have a sweet personality and like to spend time with their family.

    Similar to a chihuahua, Dobermans form strong bonds with a single family member. And while they like to interact with the whole family, they will seek their special human above everyone else. 

    Since they thrive on praise and human companionship, Dobermans like to be involved in all family activities and should live indoors.

    Fun-loving, protective, and affectionate, Dobermans won’t hesitate to defend their people. A properly trained and socialized Doberman Pinscher isn’t aggressive or vicious without reason. 

    9. Shetland Sheepdog

    Often known as Sheltie, the Shetland sheepdog was originally used as a herding dog. Nowadays, Shelties are popular family companions due to their affectionate, gentle, and loyal nature.

    Although they aren’t lap dogs, Shelties like to spend time with their people and will do anything to get your attention. 

    Highly intelligent and trainable, this breed will pick on new tricks with ease and gladly perform just to spend more time interacting with you. Like another famous herder the Border collie, the Sheltie is naturally reserved towards strangers.

    However, with early socialization, your dog will learn to be more trusting of visitors and show how affectionate and clingy they can really be. 

    FAQs About Velcro Dog

    What Is A Velcro Dog?

    A Velcro dog is a dog that wants to be close to its owner at all times. Often described as being super clingy, Velcro dogs like to follow their owners’ every move and are always close by.

    If your dog is following your every move and is always hot on your heels, he is probably a Velcro dog.

    While Velcro dogs might seem very needy, they just have a strong urge to be close to their owner and feel more comfortable that way.

    Furthermore, certain breeds are predisposed to become clingy since they were bred to work closely with people. Ultimately, all dogs that were bred for companionship, work, or hunting have the potential to become Velcro dogs. 

    How Do I Stop My Dog From Becoming A Velcro Dog?

    Owning a Velcro dog is not a big problem for the most part. However, there might be times when you would like to maintain some distance and have privacy.

    The right training techniques can help your dog to be more independent and curb their neediness. 

    Teaching your dog the stay command can be of great help if you want to go to the bathroom alone for a change.

    Instead of letting your dog follow you, use the stay command to keep them at a distance. Start with short distances and gradually move further away until your dog learns how to stay put even when you are out of their sight. 

    Are Poodles Velcro Dogs?

    The poodle is a very affectionate and faithful companion dog that forms strong bonds with its owners.

    Poodles often show this affection by staying close to their owner or never leaving their side, so it’s safe to say they are Velcro dogs. However, while very affectionate, some poodles become very clingy as they get older.

    It’s completely normal for older poodles to become more dependent on their owners, since they may experience hearing loss and vision problems.

    If this is the case, don’t be annoyed by your dog’s clingy behavior. Instead, try to make them feel comfortable and reassure them that you are there by their side.   

    Why Does My Dog Never Leave My Side?

    There are several reasons why your dog follows you everywhere and never leaves your side.

    Working breeds were bred for centuries to be close by and work with people, so they are more likely to stay by your side. On the other hand, many dogs like to have company and prefer to be close to their people at all times. 

    What Does It Mean When A Dog Puts His Paw On You?

    Your dog pawing at you is a sign that they want to communicate something and can be interpreted in several ways.

    In most cases, dogs will paw at their owners as a way of showing love and affection. However, this act can also be a sign that your dog is feeling insecure and wants your attention. 

    Conclusion

    Although Velcro dog breeds come in all shapes and sizes, they have one thing in common – they will follow your every move!

    If you don’t mind having a canine shadow and don’t need privacy to go to the bathroom, a Velcro dog can be an ideal companion. Here are some extra clingy dog breeds:

    In the end, while Velcro dogs may seem overly needy, there’s nothing wrong with owning a dog who wants to spend every second by your side.

    Do you have a Velcro dog? If so, what breed of dog do you own?

    Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below.

    Related Articles:

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    Meet 9 Clingy Dog Breeds - Velcro Dog Breeds - Golden Retriever puppy on blue, red, and green baby slide.

    UPDATE: This post was originally published on December 23rd, 2022. We periodically update blog posts with new experiences and information to keep them as relevant as possible.

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  • Time For Puppy Preschool Part 5: Preparing For Dog Graduation


    The basis of training any animal is winning its trust, confidence and respect. True training cannot begin until the animal has accepted you as its leader, respects you and entrusted you with his or her confidence.

     

    The mistake many puppy owners make is mistaking love and affection for respect and confidence. While it is certainly important to love your new puppy, it is also very important that the puppy respect you and see you as his leader. Dogs are naturally pack animals, and every dog looks to the lead dog for advice and direction. Making you the pack leader is vital to the success of training any dog. 

     

    Failure to gain the respect of the dog can create a dog that is disobedient, out of control and even dangerous. Problem dogs are dangerous, whether they are created through bad breeding, owner ignorance or improper training. It is important to train the dog right from the start, since retraining a problem dog is much more difficult than training a puppy right the first time.

    If you are reading this series of entries for the first time, you might want to start at the beginning: Time for puppy preschool: Get the basics for positive dog training

     

     

    Advanced Dog Training Exercises

    Coming when called is a vital skill that every dog must learn, both for its own safety and that of those around it. A disobedient dog that refuses to come when called could easily be hit by a car, get into a fight with another dog, or suffer a variety of other bad experiences. A well trained dog that comes when called can safely be taken out to play in the local park, at the beach, on the hiking trail, or anywhere else the owner and dog may wish to go.

     

    Basic training to come when called is relatively easy and straightforward, and involves providing praise, treats and other perks when the dog does as his owner wants. After these basic “come when called” training exercises are mastered, there are a number of fun exercises that can be introduced to challenge the dog and pique its interest.

     

    Making training into a fun game is one of the best ways to motivate dogs and handlers alike. It is easy for training sessions to become routine and boring, and it is important to keep them from degenerating into this state.

     

    Before beginning any food based training exercise, it is important to make sure that the dog is properly motivated and ready to respond to treat based training. Testing the dog is simply a matter of taking a piece of his regular food and waving it in front of the dog’s nose. If the dog shows great enthusiasm for the food, it is ready to start the training. If not, it is best to wait until the dog is in a more receptive mood.

     

    The treats that work best for treat based training games like hide and seek are small pieces of chicken, cheese or liver. In other words, something your dog will love. It is best to use very small pieces to avoid over-feeding the dog during the training sessions.

     

    One great game for you and another family member or friend to play with your dog is simply back and forth recall. This is a great exercise for teaching your dog to come whenever it is called by a member of the family. Dogs often learn to only respond to one person, and this can be a problem when other people are watching the dog. That is one reason why professional dog trainers always insist on working with the owner as well as the dog. A well trained dog must learn to respond to whoever is in charge, not just the owner or usual handler.

     

    In the back and forth recall game, two or more people stand approximately ten yards apart, in a safe place like a fenced in yard. One person calls the dog and asks him to sit and wait until another person asks the dog to come. When the dog responds to the command to come, it is rewarded with a treat. Most dogs respond wonderfully to this exercise and love playing this game. When playing the back and forth recall game, it is important that only the person who called the dog be allowed to give the dog a treat.

     

    After the dog has mastered the back and forth recall game, the humans in the game can start to spread further out, thus turning the back and forth recall game into a fun game of hide and seek. The hide and seek game starts with two or more people in the center room of the house. Every time they call the dog to come, they spread out further away from where they started. As the game continues, one person will be at one end of the house, while another may be at the opposite end. What makes the hide and seek game so much fun for the dog is that he must seek out the person to get the treat, instead of simply running up to a person in plain sight. This type of seeking behavior appeals to many of the dog’s natural instincts. After all, dogs are naturally hunting animals, and seeking out food is second nature to them.

     

    Keeping Your Dog Motivated

    Keep the attention of a dog while training is not always easy. Dogs can be easily distracted, and it is important to not allow the training sessions to be sabotaged by boredom. Making training fun for the dog and the human alike is vital to creating a happy, well-adjusted and well trained dog.

     

    Providing random positive stimuli during the day is a great way to keep the interest of the dog. Doing things the dog enjoys, like walking in the park, riding in the car, and playing with other dogs, is a great way to keep the dog’s attention and reward him for small successes.

     

    For instance, in order to reward the dog for coming to you, for instance, ask the dog to come to you, without giving any clues about a walk, a car ride, or other treats. After the dog has come to you and obediently sat down, attach the leash and start the reward. This can be either the aforementioned walk in the park, ride in the car, or anything else the dog likes to do.

     

    Providing some kind of reward, whether a treat, a special outing or just a scratch behind the ears during each time the dog does something you want is a great way to keep your dog motivated. If the dog knows something great is going to happen every time he obeys your command, he will be motivated to please you every time.

     

    When training any dog, it is important to not let distractions disrupt the training. The dog must be taught to ignore distractions, such as other people, other dogs, other animals and loud noises, and focus on what is being taught. These types of distractions can even be used as rewards when training the dog to come when called.

     

    For instance, if your dog enjoys playing with other dogs whether in a local dog park or with the neighbor’s dogs, let him play freely with those other dogs. Then go into the park or yard and call your dog. When he comes to you, provide lots of praise, treats and other rewards, then immediately allow the dog to go back to playing with his friends. Repeat this several times and praise the dog each time he comes to you. The dog will quickly learn that coming to you means good things (treats and praise) and not bad ones (being taken away from the park).

     

    If the dog does not master this particular type of training right away, try not to get discouraged. So called distraction training is one of the most difficult things to teach. Dogs are naturally social animals, and breaking away from the pack is one of the most difficult things you can ask your dog to do. Most dogs will be understandably reluctant to leave their canine companions, but it is important to persist.

     

    Training the dog to come to you may require some creativity on your part at first. For instance, waving a favorite toy, or a lure, is a great way to get your dog’s attention and put the focus back on you. If your dog has been clicker trained, a quick click can be a good motivator as well.

     

    Once the dog begins to get the hang of coming when called, you can begin to reduce and eliminate the visual cues and focus on getting the dog to respond to your voice alone. It is important that the dog respond to voice commands alone, since you will not always have the availability of a toy or other lure.

     

    If you want to learn the basics of dog training, say no more, here you go: Puppy 101: A beautiful journey through dog training

     

     

    Dealing With Separation Anxiety

    Separation anxiety, also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior, is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training. Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destroying the owner’s property, excessive barking, self-destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation.

     

    Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, chew and scratch at the door the entire time their family members are away. Well-meaning owners often unwittingly encourage this misbehavior by rushing home to reassure the dog, but it is important for the well-being of both dog and owner that the dog learns to deal with extended periods of separation.

     

    How the owner leaves the house can often contribute to separation anxiety issues. A long and drawn out period of farewell can make matters worse by making the dog feel even more isolated when the owner finally leaves. These long types of farewells can get the dog excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off. These excited, isolated dogs often work off their excess energy in the most destructive of ways, such as chewing up a favorite rug or piece of furniture.

     

    Excess energy is often mistaken for separation anxiety, since results are often the same. If you think that excess amounts of energy may be the problem, try giving your dog more exercise to see if that eliminates the problem.

     

    If separation anxiety is truly the problem, it is important to address the root causes of that anxiety. In order to prevent separation anxiety from occurring, it is important for the dog to feel happy, safe, secure and comfortable while the owner is away for the day. It is important, for instance, to give the dog plenty of things to keep it busy while you are away. This means providing it with lots of toys, such as balls or chew toys. A pet companion is often effective at relieving separation anxiety as well. Giving the dog a playmate, such as another dog or a cat, is a great way for busy pet parents and pets alike to cope with the stress of being left alone.

     

    Setting aside scheduled play times, during which the pet is given your undivided attention, is another great way to alleviate boredom and separation anxiety. Playing with the dog, and providing it with sufficient attention and exercise is a proven way to avoid a stressed and anxious dog. A happy dog that has been well exercised and well-conditioned will generally sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner. It is important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house each day. It is important to give the dog a few minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave.

     

    For dogs that are already experiencing separation anxiety and associated misbehaviors, it is important to get them accustomed to your leaving gradually. Be sure to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, several times during the day. Doing so will get your dog accustomed to your departures and help them realize that you are not leaving them forever; Dogs that have been previously lost, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, often have the worst problems with separation anxiety. Part of treating this problem is teaching the dog that you’re leaving is not permanent.

     

     

    Preventing Unwanted Urination

    Dogs often urinate when they become overly excited, and dogs that are otherwise perfectly housebroken sometimes show their excitement by dribbling urine when greeting you excitedly. It is normal for some dogs to urinate when they get excited, and this can be a particular problem for many older dogs.

     

    A lot of excitement induced urination occurs in young puppies, and it is caused by a lack of bladder control. The puppy may not even know he is urinating, and punishment will simply confuse him. Becoming angry with the puppy will quickly cause excitement urination to morph into submissive urination, thus compounding the problem. As the puppy gets older and develops better bladder control, this type of excitement urination should disappear.

     

    The best cure for excitement urination is prevention. Preventing your dog from becoming over excited is the best way to control this problem behavior. If your dog is excited by a particular stimulus or situation, it is important to repeatedly expose him to that situation until it no longer causes excessive excitement.

     

    Submissive urination is a natural part of pack behavior among animals like dogs and wolves. The submissive member of the pack shows his or her submissiveness by lowering itself and urinating. Since dogs are pack animals, they may show their submissiveness to their owner, who they regard as the pack leader, by exhibiting this submissive urination.

     

    Dogs who exhibit submissive urination are usually showing their insecurity. Previously abused dogs often exhibit submissive urination. These dogs need to be shown that there are more appropriate ways to express their submissive status, such as shaking hands or licking the owner’s hand.

     

    The best way to deal with submissive urination problems is often to ignore the urination. Trying to reassure the dog can give the mistaken impression that you approve of the behavior, while scolding the dog can make the submissive urination worse.

     

    Correcting problems with submissive urination should be directed at building the dog’s confidence and teaching him other ways to show his respect. Teaching the dog to lift his paw, sit on command, or similar obedience commands, is a great way to direct the dog’s respect in a more appropriate direction.

     

    Problems with urination are not always easy to deal with, but it is important to be consistent, and to always reward acceptable behavior on the part of the dog. When urination problems do occur, it is always a good idea to first rule out any medical conditions that could be causing those problems. Medical issues like bladder infections can be the root cause of problems with unwanted urination.

     

    After any medical problems have been ruled out, it is important to determine what is causing the problem, and treat it appropriately. While it can be tempting to punish the dog for inappropriate elimination, doing so will only confuse and further intimidate him.

     

    Are you still deciding whether to adopt a new puppy or not? You might this entry interesting: Welcome Home Buddy: Tips For Adopting A New Puppy Or Dog

     

     

    How To Train Your Dog Not To Chase

    Dogs by nature are predatory animals, and all predatory animals share the motivation to chase fleeing objects. While this may be a natural instinct, it is not appropriate when those fleeing objects are joggers, bicyclists or the mailman.

     

    Training the dog not to chase people and bicycles is an important thing to do, and it is best to start that training as early as possible. Starting when the dog is still small and non-threatening is important, particularly with breeds that grow very large, or with breeds that have a reputation for being very aggressive. Many people respond to being chased by a dog, especially a large dog, with understandable fear, and it is best for yourself and your dog that he be trained not to chase before he reaches a threatening size.

     

    Some dogs are easier to train away from chasing than others. Breeds that have been used for hunting or herding often retain much more of their chasing instincts than other types of dogs, for instance.

     

    No matter what breed of dog you are working with, however, it is important to not allow him off the leash until his chasing behavior has been curbed. Allowing an untrained dog off the leash is dangerous, irresponsible and illegal.

     

    Before you expose your dog to a situation where he will want to chase someone or something, be sure to train him in a safe, controlled area like a fenced yard. It is important for the dog to be able to focus and concentrate on you, and for him to understand what behavior you want. The dog must be given the opportunity to repeatedly perform the behavior you want while in this controlled setting.

     

    The training session should be started indoors in the dog’s home. The dog should be put on a leash at one end of a hallway or room, and the owner should stand at the other end. The owner then waves a tennis ball in front of the dog but does not allow him to touch it. After that, the tennis ball is rolled to the other end of the hallway or the room, and the command “Off” is used to tell the dog not to chase the ball. If the dog starts out after the ball, use the command “Off” once again and give a firm tug on the leash.

     

    When doing this type of training, it is vital that the dog not be allowed to touch the ball. If he actually reaches the ball, he may think that “Off” means to get the ball. This exercise should be repeated several times, until the dog has learned the meaning of the “Off” command. When the dog responds correctly by not chasing the ball, he should be rewarded with a special treat.

     

    After the dog seems to understand his new game, move to another room and try the same thing. Repeat the exercise in several rooms of the house, in the garage, etc. After the dog has seemingly mastered the game and learned the meaning of the “Off” command, you can work with him without the leash, but still only in a safe area like your own home or a fenced in yard. It may take some time for the dog to fully master control of his chasing instinct, and it is important not to rush the process, or to leave the dog off leash until you are sure he is fully trained.

     

    To test the training in the real world, enlist the assistance of a friend to pose as a jogger. It is important that the dog does not see and recognize this person; he has to assume that it is a stranger in order for the test to be valid. Stand with the dog on his leash and have your friend jog by a couple of times while you do the “Off” exercise. If the dog does as he is asked, be sure to provide lots of praise and treats. If he starts after the “jogger”, give a firm reminder by tugging on the leash.

     

     

    Training Your Dog Not To Fear Loud Noises

    Loud noises, such as fireworks, thunder and traffic, are one of the most frequently cited fears given by dog owners. It is natural for some dogs to be fearful of loud noises, but some dogs are so traumatized by thunder, fireworks and other loud noises that they are completely unable to function.

     

    Dogs that display excessive fears or phobias such as these can be a danger to themselves and those around them. Dogs may manifest their fear in self-destructive ways, like slinking under the couch or the bed and getting stuck, for instance. They may also react in ways that are destructive to the home, such as urinating or defecating on the carpet, chewing up favorite items, or barking incessantly. These reactions are often worse when the owner is not at home.

     

    One thing that is hard for many dog owners to understand is that soothing or stroking a dog that is displaying fear is exactly the wrong thing to do. While it is natural to try to calm a fearful dog, to the dog you are rewarding it for being afraid. The dog likes the sound of your voice, likes your petting, and concludes that he has done the right thing by acting afraid. This only makes a bad situation worse.

     

    The best strategy when the dog displays fear when there is a thunderstorm or a fireworks display is to simply ignore the dog. It is of course important to watch the dog to make sure he does not hurt himself, but otherwise just ignore him and let him work through the fear on his own. When you go away, be sure to make sure there is nothing the dog can get stuck under, since fireworks or a thunderstorm can pop up at any time.

     

    A dog that is severely afraid of thunderstorms and other loud noises may need to be confined to a single room, or even a crate, for a period of time. After the dog feels safe in his “den”, he may be able to deal with his fears a little better. It can be quite a struggle to teach a dog not to be afraid of thunderstorms, firecrackers and other such noises, but it is important that the dog at least be able to control his fears without being destructive to himself or his environment.

     

    Much as magicians use sleight of hand to hide their tricks, so dog owners practice the art of distraction to take their dog’s mind off of their fear. For instance, if your dog is afraid of thunderstorms and you know one is on the way, gather some of your dog’s favorite toys and get ready for the misdirection.

     

    Of course, your dog will probably know the thunderstorm is on the way before you do. When you see your dog start to display fear, take a few of his favorite toys and try to get him to play. Very fearful dogs may be reluctant to play, but it is important to try nevertheless. Often a few treats can be a good distraction as well. Try buying one of those balls that you can fill with treats or biscuits, and encourage your dog to chase it.

     

    Try playing with your dog every time a thunderstorm is in the forecast. This can start to implant good memories, and these can sometimes replace the fear memories that caused the dog to be afraid of thunderstorms in the first place.

     

    Desensitization is a highly effective way to deal with phobias and fears in humans, and it can be very effective for dogs and other animals as well. Desensitization involves introducing the dog to small amounts of whatever noises frighten him. For instance, if the dog is afraid of thunder, try tape recording your next thunderstorm and play it back slowly when the dog is relaxed. Reward the dog for not showing fear responses.

     

    This kind of desensitization training can be remarkably effective for some dogs, but it will take lots of patience and hard work. Fears of thunder and fireworks are not always easy to cure.

    Are you also a cat person? Owning A Domestic Cat 101: Important Tips, And What Supplies To Get

     

     

    Teaching Your Dog Not To Chew

    Chewing is something that comes naturally to every dog. Every dog feels the instinctual need to sharpen its teeth and hone his biting skills. Chewing on the right things, like specially designed chew toys for instance, can even help the dog clean his teeth and remove plaque.

     

    Even though chewing is natural and healthy, that does not mean that the dog should be given carte blanche and allowed to chew everything in sight. It is vital for every dog to learn the difference between the things it is OK to chew on, like toys and ropes, and the things that are off limits, such as carpets, shoes and other items.

     

    When working with a new puppy, it is advisable to keep the puppy in a small, puppy proofed room for at least a few weeks. This is important not only to prevent chewing but to properly house train the puppy as well.

     

    Older dogs should also be confined to a small area at first. Doing this allows the dog to slowly acquaint him or herself to the smells and sights of the new household.

     

    When you set up this small, confined area, be sure to provide the puppy or dog with a few good quality chew toys to keep him entertained while you are not able to supervise him. Of course the dog should also be provided with a warm place to sleep and plenty of fresh clean water.

     

    As the dog is slowly moved to larger and larger portions of the home, there may be more opportunities to chew inappropriate items. As the dog is given freer access to the home, it is important to keep any items that the dog or puppy should not chew, things like throw rugs, shoes, etc. up off of the floor. If you forget to move something and come home to find that the dog has chewed it, resist the urge to punish or yell at the dog. Instead, distract the dog with one of its favorite toys and remove the inappropriate item from its mouth.

     

    The dog should then be provided with one of its favorite toys. Praise the dog extensively when it picks up and begins to chew its toy. This will help to teach the dog that it gets rewarded when it chews certain items, but not when it chews other items.

     

    Teaching the dog what is appropriate to chew is very important, not only for the safety of your expensive furniture and rugs, but for the safety of the dog as well. Many dogs have chewed through dangerous items like extension cords and the like. This of course can injure the dog severely or even spark a fire.

     

    Most dogs learn what to chew and what not to chew fairly quickly, but others are obviously going to be faster learners than others. Some dogs chew because they are bored, so providing the dog with lots of toys and solo activities is very important. It is also a good idea to schedule several play times every day, with one taking place right before you leave every day. If the dog is thoroughly tired after his or her play session, chances are he or she will sleep the day away.

     

    With this, we conclude our “Time For Puppy Preschool” series. We hope these entries helped you in the process to adapt yourself and your new puppy to your new life together. Please feel encouraged to say hello – we’ll be happy to help with any questions you might have, and if you’d like to comment on our site, products or service, we’d love to hear from you!



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  • Is My Dog Pregnant? Are You Considering Spaying Or Neutering Your Dog?


    Your dog is in heat and you notice the stud next door eyeing her up. They are left alone for a few hours and chances are they mated. So how can you tell if your dog is pregnant? There is no missed period, and no mood swings. There is not even a home pregnancy test that dogs can take. Not only do they not make them, but a dog will go through the same hormonal changes whether she is pregnant or not so there is no HCG produced in a dog’s body. So a blood test is out also. 

    How to tell if a dog is pregnant:

    There are signs you can look out for. If your dog’s stomach looks swollen or she looks like she had sudden weight gain and her nipple area seems swollen these are all signs that your dog could be pregnant. The most definitive way of knowing is by going to your vet. Your vet will do an ultrasound to determine if your dog is pregnant.

    How long is a dog pregnant:

    So what can you expect now that your dog is expecting? For starters it is a quick pregnancy. A dog is only pregnant for anywhere from 60-63 days. Sounds like a dream come true.

     

    Your dog usually will not need any extra nutrients throughout most of her pregnancy. In fact you might find that your dog will lose some of her appetite and vomit a few times in the beginning of her pregnancy. It is just like our morning sickness only it lasts a week or so and it usually comes about 2 to 3 weeks into your dog’s pregnancy.

    Take a look at some of our other entries, like this one: Time For Puppy Preschool Part 5: Preparing For Dog Graduation. There you will find some guidance into advanced dog training exercises, keeping your dog motivated, dealing with separation anxiety, and more.

     

     

    Do Pregnant Dogs Need To Be Fed A Different Diet?

    During the last 3 to 4 weeks of pregnancy you might want to increase her food slowly so that by the time she delivers she will be eating only about 25-30% more than she was beforehand. That really is not a lot. Make sure you add this in slowly and try not to overdo it. You do not want your dog gaining too much weight.

    A lot of well meaning pet owners start increasing their soon-to-be-a-mommy’s food intake right from the start because they are under the assumption that they need the extra calories to grow their puppies. This is not true at least not for the beginning and middle of the pregnancy. It is only in the last few weeks. The reason why you are going to wait until the end of the pregnancy to increase her food intake is because that is when the puppies really begin to grow. Your dog will need more nutrients and energy to grow these pups. Some vets will recommend you switch her over to a growth/puppy food because it will provide the nutrients for her growing family. Other vets will suggest you put her on a nursing/lactation diet.

    It is up to you on how you want to feed her. You may want to feed her two small meals throughout the day. It might be hard to feed her in one feeding because her puppies may be taking up a lot of room and she might not be able to eat it all at once. You might even want to break the rule of not leaving food in your dog’s bowl all day for these last few weeks. It might be beneficial to your dog if you do this, but make sure you are watching what she eats.

    Dogs can develop toxemia or eclampsia late in their pregnancy if they do not eat enough or have a poor diet. Again some doctors will give your dog vitamins during pregnancy and others will not. Do not add any vitamins or minerals on your own to your dog’s diet. It can be deadly to both the mom and the pups. Especially calcium which can increase the chance of eclampsia and even a milk fever after birth.

    Milk fever is when the mother does not have the ability to move calcium into their milk without taking it from themselves.

    Are you more of a cat person? Perhaps this entry is more for you: Owning A Domestic Cat 101: Cat Food And The Health Of Your Feline. Here you will get the basics of cat feeding, figuring out if your cat is overweight, what to expect from a healthy cat, spaying, neuterization, parasites, and more.

     

    Things To Be Cautious About

    A pregnant dog can still exercise, in fact it is recommended to keep her on a light exercise program. This will not only keep her muscles tone but it will also help with the weight gain. Just as with humans, obesity in pregnancy can cause some serious complications.

    Right before your dog is about to deliver, she will probably stop eating for a day or two. This is one of your first signs that delivery is immediate. You might want to keep some food out for her though, just in case she wants to nibble here and there to keep her strength up.

    Once she has given birth and all is well you are going to see a remarkable increase in her appetite. She is nursing after all and lactation brings upon more demands on her body. Expect her nutritional needs to multiple by 3 or 4 times. This does not happen at all once. Expect to see an increase the 20 to 30 days following the birth as the puppies grow and nurse more.

    By the time the puppies are a month old, your dog should be eating at least four times of what she did before she was pregnant. Keep an eye on her, if she seems to be getting too thin you can supplement the food more with some flavored canned food. Once 6 to 8 weeks have passed since delivery you should start weaning the pups and getting the mom back to normal.

    Is your dog’s barking becoming a problem? Sometimes our dogs’ incessant barking might become a real trouble for our own mental stability as for our neighbors tranquility. It is for the best if we find out why our dog is constantly barking, and learn how to control it.

     

    Getting Back To Normal

    To wean puppies you have to help the milk supply dry up. Withhold food and give her half of the water she normally drinks for one day. The next day, give her only a quarter of what she was eating before she got pregnant and half her water. From then on, give her all the water she wants and slowly over the next five days increase her food until she is eating what she was before her pregnancy. By the time she is back on her pre pregnancy food, her milk supply will have dried up and the puppies will have been weaned.

    So for a short while she will be fed more than normal, there is no reason to start going crazy with the feeding of your dog when she is pregnant. Keep her on the same schedule until the last month or so of her pregnancy. If you are unsure of when conception took place, your vet should be able to make an estimated guess for you and you can use that as a guideline. Even before your dog gets pregnant you should make sure she is eating a balanced meal and is not overweight.

    How do you know if you have an overweight dog? And if you do, what can you do to help your dog get a more healthy body? Here you go: Best Diet For Dogs And What To Do When You Have A Fat Puppy.

     

    Spaying Of The Female Dog

    Spaying of the female dog is undertaken to control the unwanted pregnancy. The spaying of the dog reduces the aggressiveness of the dog. By spaying, one can reduce the incidences of the commonly encountered reproductive diseases like pyometra.

    Spaying also helps to control the population in case of stray animals and many nations are doing these operations by removing the ovaries from the female animals. Experienced veterinarians are required to do the spaying in case of female dogs and the postoperative care is to be given more emphasis. If proper control measures are not taken after the surgical operation for the removal of ovary, then the infections may start setting in and the animal may end up in development of peritonitis and then toxemia sets in, causing unwanted health problems. Death of the dog may finally occur, if the dog is not provided an effective and proper veterinary care.

    A female dog that is spayed before the occurrence of first heat will have almost a zero chance of development of mammary cancer, which is more common with the dogs that are not spayed.

    A female dog generally comes to heat once in eight months or so. During the heat occurrence, there is bleeding from vagina and the dog may cross with the unwanted male and the spaying activity prevents all these. In case of aged dogs, the dog may often get signs of increased thirst, loss of appetite, vomiting etc. that are so common with pyometra.

    Pyometra means the presence of pus in the uterus. Once pyometra occurs, it involves many discomforts to the animal in addition to the cost factor involved for the therapy also. Such pyometra is totally prevented by spaying because in the case of spaying, you are removing both ovaries and the uterus.

    Ever heard of Coccidia and Giardia? They are nasty intestinal protozoan parasites that are common in young puppies. Vibralife Health Supplement Multivitamin and Natural Dewormer Alternative is packed with all-natural ingredients like reed sedge peat and diatomaceous Earth which work as a team to bind and remove toxins and parasites from your pet.

    Surgical Neutering Of The Male Dog

    Surgical neutering of the male dog is important in helping the dog owners to control the male dog’s aggressive behavior. Yes. By doing the surgical neutering, it becomes possible to control the dog’s restlessness, which might have caused so much agony for the owner and hence, neutering corrects such activity to the benefit of the dog owner.

    When the dog is in the puppy stage, the dog may be subjected to the surgical neutering technique. Hence, the hormonal impact is highly minimized in such male dogs.

    The surgical neutering of the male dog helps to prevent the incidences of prostate gland diseases. In canine patients undergoing the surgical neutering, the incidences of prostate enlargement are totally minimized.

    Sometimes, the adult male dog has more difficulties during defecation. However, one has to rule out the feed borne constipation like lack of fibers etc. before resorting to the fixation of prostate enlargement as a cause for this. Constipation is mainly due to the increased size of the prostate gland. Neutering makes shrinkage of the prostate gland. In surgical neutering, the incision is placed in front of the scrotum and the testicles are removed in a surgical manner using aseptic techniques.

    The wound does not need to be closed except for the tying up of the cord after cutting of the testicle. However, in two to three days after, as a routine tissue reaction, some swelling may occur in the scrotum. Once you administer the antibiotic that has a broader spectrum of activities, the condition gets recovered in a satisfactory condition. Septic shock may occur if the surgical site gets infected with some microbial infections and in these cases, the wound needs a thorough dressing procedure and the patient needs to be continuously monitored in a clinical environment.

    Please feel encouraged to say hello – we’ll be happy to help with any questions you might have, and if you’d like to comment on our site, products or service, we’d love to hear from you!



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  • Dog Pregnancy Calendar – All Stages Of Dog Pregnancy

    Dog Pregnancy Calendar – All Stages Of Dog Pregnancy


    This post may contain affiliate links. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post.

    Are you in the process of breeding your dog, or do you already have a pregnant dog at home?

    Whatever may be the case, you’ll need all information about the canine gestation period and what to expect. A week-by-week dog pregnancy calendar is an essential tool that will help you stay informed of what is happening in all stages of your dog’s pregnancy.

    Pregnant Golden Retriever in a down stay in her whelping box

    While having a new litter is super exciting, it’s completely natural to feel a bit anxious about caring for a pregnant dog! Luckily, dogs are very self-sufficient and know how to handle pregnancy and give birth on their own. However, you should know what to expect and be prepared to help in case of an emergency.

    The average length of canine pregnancy is 63 days, but depending on the breed, dogs can be pregnant from 58 to 68 days. Compared to people, dogs are pregnant for a very short time, so you need to know in advance what to expect to support a healthy pregnancy.

    QUICK TIP: Start preparing early for your newborn puppies. They most definitely can come earlier than expected as was the case with 3 out of 4 of Raven’s litters (the 4th litter was 1 day late). Check out our whelping checklist for supplies you might need for whelping a litter of pups.

    Below, you will find a comprehensive guide through all nine weeks of canine pregnancy, from the moment your dog conceives to the actual delivery. 

    A Week-By-Week Dog Pregnancy Calendar

    Whether you are trying to get your dog pregnant or you already have a pregnant dog at home, congratulations! Caring about a pregnant dog and raising the puppies are the most exciting things you are going to experience as a pet owner. With the help of a canine gestation calendar, you’ll be able to track your dog’s pregnancy week by week and be prepared for a due date. 

    Week One

    Within the first seven days, after the mating has taken place, ovulation and fertilization happen. During this process, the fertilized eggs will travel down from the uterus to get implanted into the uterine wall. Knowing when your dog is ovulating can help you create an accurate canine pregnancy calendar and predict your dog’s due date.

    Bear in mind, that ovulation is necessary for successful breeding, but it can be hard to determine whether your dog is ovulating or not. However, you can track your dog’s heat cycle to confirm ovulation. 

    Most dogs don’t show any signs they are pregnant this early on, but pregnancy will create hormonal changes within your dog’s body. While you won’t notice any physical change, some dogs may experience morning sickness. However, this is fairly rare, and most dogs don’t behave or appear any differently.

    At this stage, you should continue to feed the best dog food and exercise, and play with your dog the same as before she became pregnant. Furthermore, there is no need to include any nutritional supplements at this point, unless your vet says otherwise.

    Week Two

    During the second week of your dog’s pregnancy, the developing embryos slowly start to grow. At this point, the embryos are still very small and don’t need many calories for normal growth and development. Therefore, you can continue feeding your dog the same as before and don’t have to change her diet in any way.

    From this point on, you should measure your dog regularly and keep a close eye on her weight. Your dog’s weight should remain the same or increase by no more than 10 percent until the end of the fifth week of pregnancy. However, if your dog starts to lose weight, the puppies may be in danger, so call your vet right away and take your dog for a checkup. 

    These are still the early days of the pregnancy, so you can continue exercising and playing with your dog as you did before. Furthermore, you don’t have to make any changes to your dog’s grooming and bathing routine just yet. There is also no need to add any nutritional supplements at this point if none were prescribed by your vet. 

    Week Three

    During the third week of your dog’s pregnancy, the embryos will start to take root inside the lining of the uterus. Inside this protective membrane, they will receive all the nutrients necessary for proper growth and development. At this stage, the puppies are less than one centimeter long, so you won’t notice any significant change in your dog’s overall appearance. 

    You should continue to feed and exercise your dog as before, and you still don’t have to change any aspects of your dog’s regular routine. However, some dogs start to have a bigger appetite around this time, so monitor your dog for an increase. 

    If your dog seems more ravenous than before, you can increase her portion sizes a bit, to satisfy the needs of the growing puppies. Note, that it’s too early to make any major changes in your dog’s diet at this point. So, if your dog seems hungrier than usual, a slight increase in food won’t hurt, but don’t exaggerate.

    Week Four

    The fourth week of the dog gestation calendar is the time when things really start to happen! At this time, an experienced breeder or a vet will be able to confirm the pregnancy by gently palpating your dog’s abdomen. Please leave this up to experts as you could injure your unborn puppies if you don’t know what you’re doing.

    Furthermore, your vet will also be able to do an ultrasound, so you can get a rough idea of how many puppies your dog will have.

    Therefore, you should take your dog to the vet by the middle of the fourth week, even if she looks completely healthy. Besides checking the mom and telling you what to expect in terms of litter size, your vet will also be able to spot any developmental deformities in the puppies. 

    By the end of the fourth week, the puppies will grow to around one and a half centimeters long. Their faces will start to take shape, and they will also start to develop eyes and a spine. And since the fourth week is one of the most formative stages of the pregnancy, the puppies are at the highest risk of sustaining developmental abnormalities. 

    At this stage of your dog’s pregnancy, you should start to limit rough play and strenuous activities that can put puppies at risk. While you shouldn’t stop exercising your dog altogether, you will have to be extra careful. So instead of taking your dog for a morning run, opt for a long walk and avoid high-intensity exercises. 

    Now is also the time to talk with the vet about your dog’s changing dietary needs. Your vet may suggest supplements that will support your dog’s delicate state and recommend different foods. 

    Week Five

    By the fifth week, embryogenesis—the first stage of gestation—ends and the second one begins. At this time, puppies start to form organs and gain weight quickly, and are from now on called fetuses. The good news is that, from this point on, the puppies are less prone to sustaining any developmental issues. 

    During this week, puppies start to develop individual toes and their claws and whiskers also start to grow. They will also develop their male and female organs, so your vet will be able to tell you the genders of the puppies with an ultrasound.

    At this stage of the pregnancy, the puppies will start to put on weight more quickly, so your dog will start to gain weight considerably as well. Consequently, you will need to start feeding your dog more and adjust her diet accordingly. Instead of two main meals, start feeding several smaller meals to your dog.

    Depending on your dog’s current diet, now might be the time to change her food to one specially formulated for pregnant dogs. If you have any doubts or questions regarding your dog’s food, consult your vet. Your vet will be able to tell you how much food she needs at this stage of pregnancy and might even recommend the best food for pregnant dogs.

    Week Six

    During the sixth week of your dog’s pregnancy, the growth and development of the puppies start to speed up. At this point, the puppies will get their distinctive features and their bones and skeleton start to become solid. 

    This is the time when your dog’s belly will become larger and her pregnancy will become apparent to everyone. If you haven’t changed her diet till this stage, you will have to do it now. Start feeding your dog with high-quality dog food formulated for pregnant dogs, to avoid nutrition and calorie deficiency.

    Some dogs have a decreased appetite during this stage, due to the discomfort caused by the pregnancy. However, your dog will need a lot of calories from the food to support the still-growing puppies. If your dog experiences a decrease in appetite, start feeding several smaller meals or leave food and encourage free feeding. 

    At this time, you should also consult your vet and see if your dog’s diet should be supplemented in any way. 

    Week Seven

    Seven weeks into the pregnancy, the puppies will start to develop hair and their bones will solidify even more. At this point, your dog may start to shed hair from her belly as she is getting ready for the big day. If this happens, don’t be alarmed—this is normal behavior for dogs as they prepare to give birth.

    The seventh week of a dog pregnancy calendar should be marked as the time you start preparing for the birth of your new puppies. This is the best time to set a whelping area for your dog! Choose a quiet place away from foot traffic, where your dog will feel safe and comfortable bringing her new puppies into the world.

    Keep in mind, that your dog will be inside her nursery a few weeks after she gives birth, so choose a room you won’t have to use anytime soon. The designated birthing area must be warm and easy to clean. If you don’t plan on breeding your dog often, you can use a simple cardboard box and blankets as a whelping box.

    Week Eight

    By the eighth week, the puppies’ skeletons should be formed completely. At this time, your vet can do an x-ray to confirm the exact size of the litter. However, this procedure may be too invasive and it’s really up to you and your vet to decide whether it’s necessary or not. 

    From this point on, your dog can go into labor at any time, so make sure that everything is prepared. Now is your time to make any final adjustments to the whelping area and to see if you have everything you need. 

    By the end of the eighth week, your dog will begin lactating, which is a clear sign that she’ll go into labor soon. Most dogs start lactating a week before labor, thus giving you a good guess of when the puppies will be born. 

    To make your dog more comfortable during whelping, you may consider trimming the hair around her nipples and rear quarters. This will keep the mess at a minimum and make the birthing and nursing process a lot easier for your dog.

    Week Nine

    At this point, your dog might start whelping at any time, so be ready to welcome the new puppies. Your dog will start nesting in her whelping box and might become restless and anxious as she prepares for birth. 

    You can start measuring your dog’s temperature if she allows it, since a drop of 1.8°F means that the labor will start soon. However, don’t do this if it will stress your dog out or make her uncomfortable in any way. 

    And once your dog goes into labor, try not to show any signs of stress and just be there to provide comfort and support. Remember, most dogs know what to do and can manage everything on their own. To put your mind at ease, you can notify your vet that your dog started whelping and have him on standby in case your dog needs any help.

    Dog Pregnancy Calendar - Golden Retriever with puppies
    Dog Pregnancy Calendar – All Stages Of Dog Pregnancy

    FAQs About Canine Gestation Calendar 

    When Should A Dog Start Showing If Pregnant?

    Most dogs will have a noticeably larger belly approximately 40 days into the pregnancy. At this point, it will become clear to everyone that the dog is pregnant. From this point onward, a dog’s belly will continue to grow daily until the time of whelping.

    We didn’t start seeing obvious pregnancy signs with Raven’s first litter until the final week before delivery.

    How Do You Calculate A Dog’s Due Date?

    The average due date of a dog’s pregnancy is 63 days after mating, but this can vary by several days. In most cases, a dog pregnancy lasts between eight to nine weeks. If you know when your dog mated, you can easily calculate her due date and use a dog pregnancy tracker to mark all stages of pregnancy.

    Can A Dog Be Pregnant For Three Months?

    A healthy pregnancy in dogs ranges from 58 to 68 days with an average of 63 days. So if everything is as it should be, your dog will give birth to puppies within the first week of the third month. If you want to know your dog’s expected due date, you should record the exact day of the mating and get ready to welcome the new litter. 

    How Long Is A Dog’s Pregnancy?

    A dog’s gestation period, on average, lasts for 63 days and is measured from the day the dog ovulates till the day she gives birth. However, depending on the breed, a dog’s pregnancy can last from 58 to 68 days. It’s completely normal for some dogs to give birth a few days earlier than the average 63 days and for others to be a few days late. 

    Can A Dog Give Birth At 54 Days?

    Dogs can whelp 54 days into the pregnancy, but this is considered an early delivery. Dogs who carry too many puppies for their size go into early labor, but unfortunately, these puppies rarely survive. On day 54, puppies still don’t have a sucking instinct and rarely survive without adequate veterinary care. 

    If you suspect that your dog is showing signs of going into labor earlier than the expected due date, call your vet for advice. You should make all the necessary preparations for an early delivery to be on the safe side. And if your dog starts to give birth early or shows signs of distress during delivery, call your vet right away. 

    Conclusion

    Whether your dog is already pregnant or you are planning to breed her, the dog gestation calendar can help you estimate your dog’s due date. A healthy canine pregnancy can last from 58 to 68 days, but the average delivery date is 63 days after mating. The most important stages of a dog’s pregnancy are:

    • In the fourth week – a vet will be able to confirm the pregnancy with an ultrasound
    • In the seventh week – start preparing a whelping box for your dog
    • In the ninth week – your dog can go into labor at any time

    Knowing what happens through all stages of canine pregnancy will help you understand the needs of a pregnant dog and her growing puppies. And with the help of a dog pregnancy tracker, you’ll know exactly what to expect when your dog is expecting!

    Have you ever had a pregnant dog?

    Did you keep a dog pregnancy calendar to help track your dog’s pregnancy milestones?

    Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below.

    Save To Pinterest

    Pregnant Golden Retriever waiting in whelping box about to deliver her puppies.
    Dog Pregnancy Calendar – Stages Week-By-Week

    UPDATE: This post was originally published on July 24th, 2022. We periodically update blog posts with new experiences and information to keep them as relevant as possible.

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    Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist.



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  • Helping Your Dog Cope With Losing A Friend – Paw Print

    Helping Your Dog Cope With Losing A Friend – Paw Print


    A few weeks ago I was finally able to post about losing my first dog, Kitsune.  Our beloved Kitsune passed away peacefully on January 31st.  We had just celebrated his 15th birthday a little over a month earlier.  As any dog lover can imagine, the loss of such a special member of our pack has really hit hard.  We got our second dog, Fenrir, when Kitsune was 8 years old.  Fen was raised with Kitsune!  From the day we brought Fen home, when he was 9 weeks old, until Kitsune passed away, there wasn’t a single day of Fen’s life that he didn’t have his big brother by his side.

    Kitsune & Fenrir

    I knew that staggering my dogs’ ages by so many years would most likely mean that I’d eventually have to deal with losing one well before the other.  Having Fenrir here to cheer me up has been such as blessing as I navigate losing Kitsune.  But I, sadly, have to admit that the past month and a half or so has also been hard on little Fen.

    How My Dog Reacted To Losing His Best Buddy

    pet parentsThe first couple of days without Kitsune were especially hard.  Fen whined a lot, and spent time running around the house trying to find Kit.  Our biggest problem, by far, in dealing with Fenrir after the loss of Kitsune has been getting Fen to eat consistently.

    Fen has always been a very picky eater.  It’s a relatively common Alaskan Klee Kai trait.  As picky as Fen’s always been, he got about 3,000 times worse after we lost Kit.  I think the problem has been twofold.  Fen has always been a sensitive dog.  He gets upset easily, and when he’s upset he doesn’t eat.  In addition to that, I’ve come to realize that I relied a lot on Kitsune to help me encourage Fen to eat regularly.  Kit loved food.  Fen grew up knowing that if he didn’t eat his food when it was offered Kitsune would happily eat it for him!  Plus, Kit’s love of food was contagious.  Fen, not wanting to be left out of the excitement of meal time, would often eat something if he saw Kitsune eating it first.

    Since having Fen as an only dog, meal times have been a huge struggle.  Not only can I often times not get him to eat dog food, but he won’t take table scraps or treats either.  Before anyone asks, yes Fenrir has seen a vet and gotten a clean bill of health.  His lack of appetite is, thankfully, not being caused by a physical health issue.

    Some Signs That Your Dog Is Grieving

    • Loss of appetite
    • Increased episodes/symptoms of separation anxiety
    • Increased clinginess to human or animal family members
    • New behavioral issues such as accidents in the house, increased vocalizations, destructive behavior, etc.
    • Lethargy and depression
    • Personality changes
    • Sleeping more than normal or
    • Not being able to sleep
    • Pacing, or continuous searching for their missing friend

    If your dog displays these signs, or others, after the loss of a friend there’s a good chance that the symptoms are being caused be grief.  However, please always take your dog to the vet for a full exam if he/she displays new or worsening mental and/or physical symptoms.

    Alaskan Klee Kai

    Tips For Helping Your Dog Deal with Grief

    Don’t Change Other Aspects Of Your Dog’s Life Too Quicky.

    Changing aspects of your dog’s life, such as their schedule or environment, too quickly after the loss of a friend can be stressful.  Everyone grieves differently.  I know some people are eager to put away their deceased dog’s belongings.  But it may be beneficial to leave items, such as bedding and toys, in place as these types of items can bring comfort to your remaining dog.  Try to keep your remaining dog(s) schedule as consistent as possible.  If you are ultimately going to make changes to his/her schedule try to do so slowly.

    But Make Changes As Needed.

    That being said, if changing some aspect of your dog’s life will help them better cope then don’t be afraid to make changes.  With Fenrir, for example, I’ve decided to change his diet.  Feeding him the same food that I fed him and Kitsune just wasn’t working.  In our case, changing Fen’s food has been a better decision than continuing to attempt to offer him a food that he just wasn’t interested in eating anymore.

    Try Not To Act Overly Emotional Around Your Dog.

    This one is hard.  Our pets can be an amazing source of comfort when we’re dealing with sadness.  But dogs pick up on our emotions, and when they are already feeling the stress of losing a housemate, seeing their favorite people morn can add to their distress.  On days when I’m feeling particularly sad, I try to step away from Fen for a while.  I take the time I need to express my sadness away from my dog.  I’d never want to cause him excess stress because I’m having a bad day.

    Manage Your Own Grief.

    Because our dogs are so amazing at picking up on our emotions, finding ways to help yourself cope with your shared grief can go a long way towards helping your dog.  Help yourself so that you can better help those around you, your remaining dog included.  Remember that you can’t pour from an empty cup.

    Make Sure You Are Attending To Your Dog’s Needs.

    This tip may sound stupid but it can be easy to forget to complete basic tasks when you’re dealing with a really stressful situation.  I know when I was dealing with Kitsune being sick, and the direct aftermath, it was hard to complete everyday tasks such as walking Fen.  Even on your worst days, make sure you are attending to your remaining dog’s basic needs.  Forgetting to feed or walk Fido is going to increase his stress levels.

    Spend Time With Your Dog.

    Go for a walk, play in the yard, or just snuggle up in front of the TV.  After your dog loses a friend, he may feel lonely.  Spending time with your dog can help him feel more secure.

    Engage Your Dog’s Body.

    Exercise can be healing, especially for dogs.  If the weather is bad and you can’t walk your dog, or otherwise exercise them outside, take a look at our previous post about exercising your dog indoors.

    Engage Your Dog’s Mind.

    Physical exercise is awesome, but don’t forget that mental stimulation is important too!  Keeping your dog’s mind busy can help them focus on positive things other than their grief.  Consider engaging your dog’s mind by brushing up on their training, having them play with interactive toys such as puzzles, or letting them explore new areas.

    Enlist Your Vet If Needed.

    If your dog is showing extreme symptoms of grief, or doesn’t seem to be making improvements over time, don’t be afraid to enlist the help of your veterinarian.  Your pet may require more intense behavioral intervention or, in some cases, medication to help them get through an especially difficult time.

    Give Your Dog Time.

    But for the most part, like with people, your dog is going to require time to deal with their grief.  Be patient with your pooch as he/she adjusts to a new normal.  Change is hard, especially when chance means moving forward without a beloved pack member.  Try to be understanding of what your dog is going through.  They are not trying to give you a hard time when they act out, they are having a hard time.  Dogs are social animals that form strong bonds with family members.  Losing a pack member isn’t easy.  Be patient and give them the time they need to adjust.

    Should You Get Another Dog?

    Blogging from A to ZThis is a question that seems to come up a lot when a dog passes from a multi-dog household.  The answer, frustratingly enough, is that it depends.  It depends on you, your remaining dog, your unique situation.  There’s a lot to take into account before thinking about bringing a new dog home.

    Remember that a new dog will never replace the dog that was lost.  Adding a new dog to the mix won’t necessarily ease the grief that your current dog is experiencing.  A new friend may bring a lot of joy, but (puppies especially) can also bring a lot of frustration.  If your current dog is feeling down, he may not be in the right frame of mind to deal with an exuberant new pack member.  You know your dog(s) best.  Sometimes adding a new member to the pack cheers everyone up and helps hearts to heal.  Other times it’s too much too soon.  It can be a good idea to allow your current dog, and yourself, time to fully process grief before thinking about any new additions.

    My Plan With Fenrir

    I’ve been utilizing these tips for Fen and I think he’s doing ok.  Lately he’s been showing more excitement about going for walks and play, and he has stopped wandering the house searching for Kit.  Our biggest remaining issue is that Fen still hasn’t been eating consistently and I can tell, at times, that he’s still feeling down.  I’m going to continue spending a lot of time with Fen, and I’ve decided to try a new food with him.  I’m hoping if I find something he likes the taste of a bit more it will help encourage him to eat.  The food he was on worked well when we had another dog around to help encourage Fen to eat.  Now that Fen is an only dog, it’s just not cutting it anymore.

    I’ll keep you all up to date on Fenrir’s progress.  For more current updates consider following us on Facebook and/or Instagram.

    Comment below!  Did I miss anything?  If you’ve, sadly, had to help your dog going through a loss what are some things you did that helped him/her feel better?

    Posting regularly here has been hard for me since we lost Kit.  I know topics like these are important, but writing about loss, and just dogs in general, when we’re still dealing with a lot of grief isn’t easy.  I want to get back to posting here more often, but decided that going back to my every week schedule is too much for now.  Going forward, at least for now, I decided that I’m going to try to stick to a every other Thursday posting schedule.    

    Coping with losing a dog

    We’ve, unfortunately, been dealing with content scrapers stealing our articles. You shouldn’t be seeing this article on any site other than pawprintpetblog.com! If you’re reading this article on any other site, we’d love for you to take the time to contact us and let us know and, if you have the time, stop by and visit us on our official site! Thanks you.





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  • The Loss of my Dog, Regrets, and the Peak-End Rule

    The Loss of my Dog, Regrets, and the Peak-End Rule


    Clara, a tan dog lying on a bed with a colorful quilt. She has her mouth open in a relaxed and happy expression. There is a black ball in front of her between her feet.
    Our happy times were many and long, but usually not dramatic

    I first learned of the “peak-end rule” when I read Daniel Kahneman’s book, Thinking, Fast and Slow. I thought it was interesting and could relate. Years later, when Clara died, the reality of it hit me.

    This post reflects my state of mind immediately after I lost Clara. My perspective has widened over time and the pain has softened. I am not sinking into fixations or deep regrets. I gave her a good life. The concepts I discuss in this post are part of what helped me through my initial grief. I hope they will help others, as well.

    Bucket lists. A favorite last meal. A peaceful, painless death, surrounded by loved ones.

    It is natural to want the best for our beloved pets at the ends of their lives, as we have throughout them.

    Yet, after losing Clara, I noticed something in myself. I had a focus, almost an obsession with her last hours, her last day, her last week. Even her last couple of years. And I have seen this focus in many others.

    It has a name: the peak-end rule.

    Definitions: The Peak-End Rule and Duration Neglect

    The peak-end rule is a cognitive bias that causes us, when looking back on an experience, to focus on two things: the most intense part of it and the end.

    I’m not saying that these things aren’t important. But the peak-end rule can—and has been shown experimentally to—cause us to de-emphasize, even ignore long periods of pleasure and happiness. The same with long periods of moderate pain, when flanked by more extreme pain.

    Here’s a scientific definition:

    The peak-end rule . . . asserts that, when people retrospectively evaluate an experience (e.g., the previous workday), they rely more heavily on the episode with peak intensity and on the final (end) episode than on other episodes in the experience — Alaybek et al., 2022.

    A related effect is called duration neglect.

    . . . we define [duration neglect] as little or no independent effect of duration on retrospective evaluations of affective episodes. — Fredrickson & Kahneman, 1993.

    This is the flip side of the peak-end rule. We devalue duration in comparison with the peak and end of an experience, even if the peak and end are very brief compared to the total experience.

    Research has shown evidence for duration neglect when we recall both pleasant experiences (e.g. vacations) and unpleasant ones (medical procedures).

    Here’s an article with a good discussion of both the peak-end rule and duration neglect.

    The peak-end rule has been shown to apply to retrospectively assessing the happiness of a life (Kahneman, 2012, p. 387). So here I am, after Clara’s death, noticing the peak-end rule while thinking over her life.

    So Many Regrets (And Some Blessings)

    I have all these regrets relating to “the end.” They were very intense in the days after Clara died. In retrospect, this happened to varying degrees with my other dogs as well.

    Clara’s Potato Chip

    I wish I had given Clara a few more potato chips on her last night on earth. I gave her one, but she wanted more. What I would have given her had I known! And I kept thinking of it on the day she died. Why just ONE damn potato chip? Luckily, Ruth was more generous, and gave her three or four cheese crackers. I asked Ruth that day, after Clara was gone, how many she gave her the night before. I wept in gratitude about those crackers.

    But Clara had great food her whole life. Good nutrition to the best of my ability, but also wonderful treats, wonderful variety, very high-value foods. Homemade dog treats. People food. A grilled lean pork chop for her lessons. Fast food chicken sandwiches for training on the road and whipped cream pup cups. And since we moved here in 2018, after we eat, Ruth gives the dogs tastes of our suppers or other fun food that’s safe for them. She does this every day.

    Clara has had food that other dogs might only dream of, over the duration of her whole life. And I’m fixated on that one potato chip.

    Zani’s Ice Cream

    The hind end and tail of Zani, a black dog, are sticking straight up out of the top of a hollow tree stump. She is investigating something in the stump.
    A fun outing very close to the end of Zani’s life

    Out of all my dogs, I had the most warning that Zani was reaching the end of her life. She had a probable diagnosis of lymphoma, but she was still feeling good for a few weeks. We had time for a mini-bucket list. But you know what I focused on after she passed? My timing at her euthanasia. I was too late when I offered her some ice cream.

    It was a blessing that I could be there at all; it was the height of COVID, September 2020. It was also a blessing that she wasn’t scared at the vet. She walked in with the tech in her jaunty way, eager to find people to visit.

    But when the moment came, we were in a rush. I wasn’t fast enough with the vanilla ice cream I had brought in a thermos. Zani looked at it, then the sedation kicked in and she fell asleep. I still think about that ice cream. Is it about me and my fantasy of her perfect passing? Mostly. I still hope that she got enough of a whiff of the ice cream to have a happy feeling on the way out.

    But I have some sweet memories from Zani’s last days. There was the fun mini-trip I took with her four days before she died, many yummy meals, and the special chews that Debbie Jacobs sent us in the nick of time. Zani got to chew one on her last day, about an hour before her appointment. I am so grateful for that.

    Clara’s Training

    Clara, a tan dog with a black muzzle (now gone gray) and black ears, sits on top of a Klimb platform. She looks very happy.
    A rare training session in Clara’s last month, September 2024

    This one is not about the last moments, but the last years. I have a huge regret that I did not continue my training fun with Clara after Lewis came. He exhausted me. I wasn’t even able to do much of my own work for a long time. Luckily, Clara still had her walks. I had been walking her and my partner’s dog daily since April 2021 (then Lewis, starting in 2022). I am so grateful for that, and proud that I walked them so consistently. But Lewis dominated my time. Clara’s training games (and the trick title work) ceased abruptly. I feel guilty.

    This is a reasonable regret, more than a bias. We stopped doing something she loved. But feeling extra bad about it is an example of both the peak-end rule and duration neglect. Clara has gotten more of my time and attention than any other dog. We lived for each other. That never stopped. She has been on outings and gone places the others never have. For seven years, she had two fun lessons a week with a great trainer. We usually went to a shopping mall (ice cream!) or a beautiful park for a long walk.

    She got my best training self for ten years. And high value treats and much, much play. But because I stopped training with her for two years (with a few exceptions), and because it was during our last years together, I feel this guilt. If there had been a hiatus of a similar period, but in the middle of our lives together, I would have regrets, but the loss likely would not loom so large.

    I stopped walking the dogs for two weeks last summer after I sprained my ankle. I hated it for them. But since it wasn’t at the end for Clara, it doesn’t horrify me to think about. She got three more months of walks after that. And it’s a blessing to me that her last one was extra sweet because it was drizzling rain. That was her favorite kind of walk.

    A happy walk after a rain in May 2024

    Clara’s Last Hours

    Hemangiosarcoma just snuck up, so I don’t know that I could have done anything better. But I feel awful, of course, that her last hours on this earth were painful, and she was in a foreign place. No idyllic euthanasia at home after a perfect bucket week or month. But it helps immensely that I was with her at the very end, that I was the last thing she saw before she sank into peace. And it WAS peaceful. So much better than Cricket, who fought, and Summer, for whom I wasn’t present.

    Perhaps Clara was in as much pain, if I can compare, after her spay when she was a teenager. They let her come home the same day, because of her extreme fear. She was hurting. But I haven’t thought of that in years. It was not at the “end.”

    Do I seem callous for comparing these things? I am not undervaluing any of her pain. Just noting that her last morning “feels” like the worst to me. But I don’t know how it felt to her. And she is gone now, leaving me to think about her life.

    The GoPro

    Clara, a tan dog with a black but graying muzzle and black on her ears, "smiles" at the camera on a walk. She is wearing a black harness and standing in a driveway.
    My last, slightly goofy photo of Clara on a walk, a week before she died

    Another regret, and this one didn’t even affect her, only me. But it feels somehow like it affected her. I bought a GoPro, largely to get some candid shots of Clara and record the dogs on their walks. Clara reacted poorly to having a phone camera pointed at her for her whole life; I was hoping she would not do so with the GoPro. I got it about four days before she died. I didn’t know what was coming. I didn’t set it up in time.

    I almost deleted this example, since it feels in really bad taste to have the privilege to buy such a camera and then whine about not getting to use it. But I include it because it’s another example of bias. Because of my ankle sprain in June, I stopped using my phone to make videos of Clara’s walks. I needed to watch my footing better. I have many videos of Clara on walks. And while there are probably other three-month gaps in that set of videos, it specifically hurts that I don’t have any for her last three months.

    The Experiencing Self vs. the Remembering Self

    Kahneman talks about the “experiencing self” and the “remembering self” and their vastly different perceptions of situations and events. The remembering self is the one that values peaks and ends. The experiencing self. . . experiences. It’s the one living in the moment.

    I’m thinking about my living dogs now. Lewis and my partner’s Chihuahua mix, Choo Choo. Many people who have just lost a dog will say to others, “Hug your babies today, give them treats.” Some will say to act as if every day is your pet’s last day because you never know if it might be.

    I ran that last one through my mind in the present and my experiencing self said NO WAY. Give Lewis a whole bunch of potato chips? EVERY NIGHT, because it might be his last night? No. The “treat them as if every day were their last” idea doesn’t cut it in many ways. Health. Nutrition. The dangers of too much fat and salt and the harm that can come from unbridled treat food. The risks of exhaustion or injury if you focus on play or intense activities. What an interesting idea, to try to make every day a peak. Because that’s what the idea boils down to. But it was an instant No when I thought about it. Out of the question.

    I spell this out because it was interesting to have my experiencing and remembering selves come smack up against each other. I was regretting Clara’s one potato chip at the same time I was refusing to do something that might prevent that regret with Lewis.

    Application of the Peak-End Rule to How We Perceive Our Dogs’ Lives

    I’m surprised that there is not a lot of written discussion about this. Grief over losing a pet is becoming more recognized and affirmed by society, and resources for this type of loss are burgeoning. The peak-end rule can aid understanding of why some things can hurt so badly.

    There is one significant exception to the silence on this topic related to pets’ lives. Veterinarian Mary Gardner, in Treatment and Care of the Geriatric Veterinary Patient, focuses on the peak-end rule in the context of euthanasia. After discussion of the rule, in a section titled “Endings Matter,” she advises vets on the ways they can help not only the pet but the pet’s guardians by making the euthanasia experience as calm and peaceful as possible. The book has thoughtful instructions on how to speak to the guardian about the process, the order of events, and more. She ends the section with these words:

    Although our pets are a part of our stories (an important chapter), their own lives are a story. And in stories, endings matter most. So make the most out of the end and make it good — Gardner and McVety, 2017, p. 338.

    Why Knowing about the Peak-End Rule and Duration Neglect Bias Can Be Helpful

    I’ve related a lot of sad moments and regrets in this post. But the point behind them, and my impetus for sharing, is that knowing about the peak-end rule helped me put those things in perspective.

    I understand more than ever why bucket lists can be such a good thing. Not only for the dog, but for the person. Having memories of the extra-special times near the end of our dogs’ lives can be sweet. The ones I described for Zani above were not dramatic. Many people do much more unusual things. But ours were enough out of the ordinary that the memories shine for me.

    Clara, a tan dog with a black muzzle, ears, and tail, is wearing a pink harness. She is splashing in the muddy Arkansas river.
    On one memorable “peak” walk in the summer of 2016, my friend and I let our dogs get in the Arkansas River because we were afraid a dog was overheating (she wasn’t, it turns out). There are lots of reasons not to get in the Arkansas River, but Clara was thrilled.

    I now have a weapon against my regrets and sad memories. I’ve delineated some of my regrets above. (That is not a complete list.) I have kept the painful images and memories of Clara’s last hours private. But I’ve learned that we can honor duration, even if that doesn’t come naturally. We can remind ourselves of the thousand fun walks or trips our dogs had even if they missed one their last day.

    Rather than focusing on the dramatic “peaks,” which stand out in our memory, and rather than trying to make peaks every day, we can be present and constant with our dogs and mindful of their happiness. Our experiencing selves can do that, and we can remind our remembering selves of it.

    I would never ever dismiss or devalue the events near the ends of our loved ones’ lives, good or bad. But it has helped me immensely to consider the rest of Clara’s life. It was long, it was calm, it was safe, it was happy. I made it that way, and I can feel peace in that.

    Copyright 2024 Eileen Anderson

    Related Posts

    References and Resources

    Alaybek, B., Dalal, R. S., Fyffe, S., Aitken, J. A., Zhou, Y., Qu, X., Roman, A., & Baines, J. I. (2022). All’s well that ends (and peaks) well? A meta-analysis of the peak-end rule and duration neglect. Organizational Behavior and Human Decision Processes, 170, 104149.

    Diener, E., Wirtz, D., & Oishi, S. (2001). End effects of rated life quality: The James Dean effect. Psychological science, 12(2), 124-128.

    Fredrickson, B. L., & Kahneman, D. (1993). Duration neglect in retrospective evaluations of affective episodes. Journal of personality and social psychology, 65(1), 45.

    Gardner, M., & McVety, D. (Eds.). (2017). Treatment and care of the geriatric veterinary patient. John Wiley & Sons.

    Kahneman, D. (2011). Thinking, fast and slow. Farrar, Straus and Giroux.

    Müller, U. W., Witteman, C. L., Spijker, J., & Alpers, G. W. (2019). All’s bad that ends bad: there is a peak-end memory bias in anxiety. Frontiers in psychology, 10, 1272.

    Zenko, Z., Ekkekakis, P., & Ariely, D. (2016). Can you have your vigorous exercise and enjoy it too? Ramping intensity down increases postexercise, remembered, and forecasted pleasure. Journal of Sport and Exercise Psychology, 38(2), 149-159.



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  • 6 Ways to Prepare Your Dog for New Year’s Fireworks Starting Now!

    6 Ways to Prepare Your Dog for New Year’s Fireworks Starting Now!


    firecracker exploding in the air with lots of orange sparks

    Is your dog scared of fireworks? Don’t wait until the holiday hits. Even with just a couple days’ lead time, you can make a plan and take action now to help your dog be less afraid of the unpredictable scary sounds of fireworks, firecrackers, whistles, and even guns.

    Get Ready

    Here are some things you can do starting today or tomorrow.

    1. Check into medications. If your dog gets very anxious about noises and you have never talked to your vet about it, do so now. He or she may be able to prescribe something to help. And if you can’t get in before the holiday, do your best with some of the other ideas here to get through it and call your vet as soon as you can. This is a long-term problem. Sound phobias tend to get worse and are not something to be taken lightly.

    2. Countercondition to noises. Get some great treats and start carrying them around. Whenever there is any kind of sudden or startling noise, including stray bangs and booms as people test their noisemakers, rain treats down on your dog. Use those special treats only for noises; don’t pass them out for nice behavior (use something else for that!), and don’t ask for any particular behavior from your dog when the noise occurs. Just give the special treats.

    You may wonder why I am not recommending buying an app, CD, or YouTube video with fireworks sounds to “practice” with. Performing desensitization/counterconditioning with sounds is tricky.  People who haven’t done DS/CC before run a real risk of scaring their dogs further instead of helping them. This is why I am suggesting this method, which uses environmental noises that are happening anyway. It’s called ad hoc counterconditioning and there is evidence from studies that it is effective, including this study that is specific to fireworks. Save the formal training for after the holiday, when you can keep your dog safe from accidental exposures to the sound.

    3. Create a safe place. Make (or adapt) a safe place for your dog. They may even choose their own! Refrain from trying to get them to come out or change locations, as long as it is safe. Keep in mind that the flashes of light that come with big fireworks displays can be scary too, so consider a method to temporarily darken any windows nearby. Also, please know that acoustic foam and even sound blankets don’t do a thing for booms. The big fireworks sounds can’t be “soundproofed” against except with materials that are much too big and heavy to use inside most houses and are not do-it-yourself friendly. Get the best protection you can in a basement or your most internal room. Despite the marketing claims, dog crates with walls a few inches thick can’t dampen low-frequency sounds to an effective degree, either. The walls of your house are probably five to ten inches thick and include insulation, but you can still hear thunder inside your house, right? But if a crate is your dog’s safe place, that’s great. And a blanket over it can muffle echos and create a cozy feeling for humans and perhaps dogs. Here are some examples of safe places for dogs.

    A small black and white terrier sleeping in a "fort" made of pillows

    4. Play sound or music. Experiment with sound masking to find out what is most helpful for your situation. Try some kind of recorded white or brown noise, natural noise, a fan, or music to mask the pops and booms. (Even a noisy food toy can be helpful.) This approach is evidence-based and is called sound masking.

    And here’s a tip: the lower the frequencies included in the masking or music, the better it can hide those low-pitched booms (Kinsler et al., 1999, p.318–320; Gelfand, 2017, p. 187). So if your dogs are already habituated to pounding rock music, metal, or something else with a lot of bass or percussion, play it! And play it on your best sound system to include those low frequencies. It can mask some of the scary noises coming from outside your house more effectively. Before anyone mentions it: that’s right, heavy metal has not ranked well in the dogs and music studies, tending to make shelter dogs more agitated (Kogan et al., 2012). That’s not surprising. But if you play it already and your dogs are fine with it, they may be habituated. In that case, metal could be the very thing for you and your dog.

    Taiko drumming is great if your dogs are accustomed to it. You can buy a few songs and loop them or find some on YouTube. But be absolutely certain that the music itself doesn’t scare your dogs first. If they are already sensitive to booms, it’s a strong possibility.

    Household appliances can help. Most fans hit fairly low frequencies and can be helpful. You can run the dryer (no heat) with a pair of sports shoes in it for some booms that will probably be familiar and not scary. You’ll need to find the line of best fit for your dogs. And you can use several of these at once, again, as long as it doesn’t scare your dog.

    Review studies indicate that music has only mild (or no) positive effects on dogs (Lindig et al., 2020). Also, all studies so far have been done in shelters. clinics, and labs, not in homes, where there are competing activities and reinforcers. Review studies have specifically indicated that there is no benefit to the “music arranged for pets” products. So the evidence supports choosing music for masking qualities, not for any claimed intrinsic relaxing qualities.

    5. Practice going out. Make a plan for taking your dog out to potty. Do you know when the noise is usually at its worst and can you work around that? Are your fences and/or leash and harness secure? If your dog is not used to being on-leash for potty time, start practicing now, including getting the harness on. Dogs who are usually sedate may panic and run off on noisy holidays. Don’t let that happen.  Keep your gates locked, your dogs’ ID tags on, and put some redundancy into your safety system.

    6. Comfort your dog if that helps. LOSE that idea that there’s something wrong with comforting your dog, if that’s what your dog wants. Helping a dog through a tough time is not “coddling.” Assess what is most helpful to your dog: a cuddle, food or a fun game after every scary noise, some lap time, sweet talk, being in their crate with a food toy, or hiding by themselves in a secluded place. Then help them do it. If they want to hide, let them.

    A sable dog opens her mouth for spray cheese to be squirted in
    The best part of noisy holidays for Summer was spray cheese!
    A white dog with brown ticking lies with his head on a woman's leg. Her hand is resting on hie shoulder.
    Lewis likes to be close to me when weird noises are heppening

    Check out more resources and tips on my page “You Can’t Reinforce Fear.“

    Another good resource is this article by Val Hughes: My Dog Fears Fireworks and Thunderstorms—What Should I Do To Help? Her article has suggestions for both long- and short-term solutions.

    References

    Gelfand, S. A. (2017). Hearing: An introduction to psychological and physiological acoustics. CRC Press.

    Kinsler, L. E., Frey, A. R., Coppens, A. B., & Sanders, J. V. (2000). Fundamentals of acoustics. John Wiley & Sons.

    Kogan, L. R., Schoenfeld-Tacher, R., & Simon, A. A. (2012). Behavioral effects of auditory stimulation on kenneled dogs. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 7(5), 268-275.

    Lindig, A. M., McGreevy, P. D., & Crean, A. J. (2020). Musical dogs: A review of the influence of auditory enrichment on canine health and behavior. Animals, 10(1), 127.

    Riemer, S. (2020). Effectiveness of treatments for firework fears in dogs. Journal of veterinary behavior, 37, 61-70.

    © Eileen Anderson 2015 



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  • A 4 Year Update On Our Spray Painted Plastic (Ruff Land) Dog Crates – Paw Print


    When we moved out of the city, back in 2019, and upgraded from an apartment to renting an entire house, I decided that my dogs, Kitsune the papillon (RIP) and Fenrir the Alaskan Klee Kai needed some updated digs as well!  Because what else is a crazy dog lady going to do when she suddenly finds herself with more space besides dedicating more of it to her dogs!?  I bought my two boys each a large-sized Ruff Land Kennel to exclusively be used as their indoor crates.  Ruff Land Kennels have not passed crash testing (most dog car “safety” products like crates and booster seats actually haven’t passed crash tests!) so I don’t use these crates in the car.  But they work fine, for us, as indoor crates.

    I bought my crates both in the color “whitestone” which just wasn’t going to cut it.  We’re far too fancy to be using basic white dog crates, don’t you know.  So in 2020 and 2021 I spray painted Kit’s and Fen’s crates in their signature colors – red and blue.  Of course, I must now point out for Memorial Day 2022, Ruff Land Kennel offered a limited time release of their crates in red and blue.  Coincidence?  I’m not fully convinced.

    painting Ruff Land cratesCan you tell I’m still a bit salty about it?  All that work painting my crates, and if I had just waited I could have bought them in the exact colors I wanted!  Oh well.  My spray painted crates didn’t turn out perfectly, but I like them and I had fun working on them.  In case anyone wants to look back at how I painted them, the supplies I used and such, I’ll post the link to the article I originally wrote about them.

    Painting Ruff Land (And Other Plastic) Dog Crates

    4 Years Later

    Well here we are, 4 years out from when I originally painted my dogs’ crates.  My post about painting the crates gets a lot of views and I get questions quite often asking how the paint held up.  I figured this was as good a time as any to answer that question.  Mostly due to the fact that I went on a crazy sleep deprived cleaning spree randomly the other night and decided that, at like 11 at night, I just had to move Fen’s crate and thoroughly clean it (for no reason).  Yeah, my partner loved that.

    I guess I have to point out that we sadly lost our beloved Kitsune in January of this year.  His signature red crate has been sitting empty since then.  I haven’t been able to muster up the…whatever it is that it takes to move it into storage.  So I didn’t include Kit’s crate in my late night cleaning frenzy, but we do still have it.  I will include a new photo of Kit’s crate in this post but, to be honest, I didn’t spend the time cleaning and inspecting it the way that I did with Fen’s blue crate.

    So 4 years, minus one dog :(, and one move later how well did the paint job on my spray painted plastic dog crates hold up?

    The Spray Paint Held Up Better Than I Thought It Would!

    When I told people I was going to spray paint my dogs’ crates, many of them told me that it wasn’t going to work long term.  They suggested that the paint would scratch and chip off relatively quickly, making all the work of painting them not worth it.  A few people I talked to had painted their own dog’s crate and were not happy with the results, so recommended against it.  I think the biggest difference was that I painted my dogs’ house crates.  These are crates that pretty much sit inside my house and, besides the rare middle of the night cleaning spree and that one time we were forced to move (renting sucks), they almost never get moved around.  They get used a lot, yes, but not moved.  I’ve kept them in a spot where they’re rather out of the way too, so the outsides of the crates don’t get bumped, or hit, or scraped often (if at all).

    I was okay with the thought of the paint getting scratched or chipping off over time.  I figured I could always touch them up in the future if I wanted too.  However, I’d say after 4 years of daily use Fen’s crate is still looking pretty good!  It does have more chips in the paint then it did when I last updated in 2022, but not anything that I’d consider to be super significant.  I don’t feel any need to bother touching up or repainting the crates yet.

    Ruff Land Kennels Dog Crate Review

    Photographic Evidence

    Of course I can’t just make you take my word on it.  Here’s some updated photos of my spray painted Ruff Land Kennels dog crates.  Fen was my lovely assistant while I took these photos, in case you don’t notice his adorably silly little face in the background in a couple of these photos.

    Here’s the front of the crate.  There’s a small chip in the paint near the hook on the side and some missing paint around the door frame that isn’t even really noticeable, especially when the crate door is closed.  Fen looks like someone just told him a really good joke!

    blue painted Ruff Land Kennels dog crate

    Here’s the side with all the ventilation holes.  Looking pretty good.  There’s a bit of missing paint/scuffs around the middle.  The middle part sticks out further than the rest of the crate.  I’m pretty sure this (mild) damage was done during our move.  The movers scraped the sides of the crate against the door frame when they were moving it in for us.

    blue painted dog crate

    And here’s the other side, where the extra door is.  This side has a chipped paint spot up near the top corner but otherwise looks good.

    spray painted dog crate blue

    The back of the crate is up next.  It has some mild scuff marks near the top and bottom and a bit in the middle.  I think these also happened during our last move.  Fen was sticking his tongue out at me in this picture!

    blue dog crate back

    And lastly the top, which actually looks even better in person than it came out in the photos.  In the picture I feel like you can see some scratches and light scuff marks, but these are not really noticeable in person.

    dog crate painted blue top

    In case anyone is really interested, here’s a front shot of Kit’s crate.  You can see a small paint chip where I removed his name tag (I put it in his memorial area) and some chips around the door.  I didn’t take photos of the other sides of Kit’s crate, though.  However, it’s in pretty much the same condition as Fen’s.  There are some small paint chips and scuff marks here and there, but it overall still looks pretty good!

    Ruff Land Kennels dog crate red painted

    Would I Spray Paint Plastic Crates Again?

    I don’t think I would bother spray painting crates if I was using them in the car, or if I planned on having to move them around a ton.  But when it comes to house crates that pretty much sit in one spot all the time, yes, I would spray paint them again.  After 4 years, and seeing lots of use, I’m happy with how our spray painted crates have held up.  Most of the noticeable damage to the paint was done during our last move, not during everyday use.  So I don’t think the paint job would hold up well if you were moving it in and out of a car constantly, or had them out in the elements.  But again…house crates.

    Alaskan klee kai in crateI do still wish I had known that Ruff Land Kennels was going to do a limited release of red and blue crates, because I would have bought those instead of spray painting white crates.  Oh well.

    I’m thinking of holding on to Kit’s crate and potentially redoing the paint job in the future if we ever decide to add another dog to the pack.  I’m thinking next time it will need an even cooler design.  Maybe a racing stripe or something?  And I still have the option to touch up the paint on Fen’s crate when/if it ever needs it.

    For the price and amount of time it took me to spray paint the crates, taking into account how they look 4 years later, I for sure feel like painting them felt worth it to me.  Why make my dogs use boring white crates when they could have colorful ones!?  But again, I’d only go with the spray paint method for crates that get treated rather gently.  It would be cool if, in the future, high quality crate companies would design crates that come in more colors, and not just for a limited time releases!  Until then, spray paint may be an option if you really want a certain color crate for your spoiled pup.

    spray painted dog crateWe’ve, unfortunately, been dealing with content scrapers stealing our articles. You shouldn’t be seeing this article on any site other than pawprintpetblog.com! If you’re reading this article on any other site, we’d love for you to take the time to contact us and let us know and, if you have the time, stop by and visit us on our official site! Thanks you.



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